Razor blades and Guide Rails

[semenza]

Hi,

      I used John Lucas' method for positioning guide rails to the mark by tapping razor blades into the mark. This does not seem like a big deal until you try it. It works great!  I was ripping about ten 6 - 10 foot boards to a particular width. The method certainly should improve accuracy, but what surprised me was how much time it saved. On just these ten cuts it saved me about 10 - 15 minutes of alignment time.
     Of course, just don't forget to remove them before the cut. I have started using the dust cover plate on my TS55. A little bonus is that the front mounting rod provides an additional bumper/barrier to running over a razor blade. Because it goes across in front of the saw blade. Certainly not fool proof. But it might be enough to stop in time.  I havn't forgotten yet. Just couldn't help notice this as I was pushing the saw along.
      Thanks, John  8)

   
Seth

srs

 

[woodshopdemos]

You are welcome Seth. It is surprising how easy and accurate it makes cutting/ripping.

 

[topchippie]

Do you have a link please.

 

[Tinker]

Do you have a link please.

Try woodshopdemos.com.
a really great site with both info and scenery (pictures of shop and tools that is)
welcome aboard the slippery slope
Tinker

 

[topchippie]

Had a look at WSD but couldn't see the razor blades thing. Regards TC

 

[ryansmythe]

" Ignore


Re: Table saw rip capacity vs. Festool plunge
? Reply #15 on: June 13, 2007, 08:10 AM ?

Reply with quoteQuote
Quote from: Joe Jensen on May 16, 2007, 10:20 PM

I may need some lessons.  I'm still not comfortable that rips will be as parallel with the TS75 as with my Tablesaw.  I still just use the TS75 for breaking down sheet good into manageable chunks.

How do you all make sure that the guide is perfectly aligned? I'm only 45, I didin't think my eyes were that bad...joe

Use two sliding combination squares, for example.  Set one to the exact rip dimension, then set the second one to the first.  Use them to position your guide.

You've only got one?  Set it to the dimension.  Instead of marking your stock stick a razor blade into the wood at the end of the square.  Repeat for the other end.  Slide your guide to the razor blades.

I take no credit for these ideas.  They came from that clever guy, John Lucas, on Wood Shop Demos.  His web site is an education in itself.

Loren "

Here is the thread it came from.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=869.0

 

[Tinker]

Had a look at WSD but couldn't see the razor blades thing. Regards TC

I don't have time to research right now.  If you go to WSD and look thru the Festool index, and look for parallel cutting, or cutting narrow strips, or something you think might present a problem with precise setup or marking, you will come across the razor blades item somewhere along the way.  you will have to take some time and maybe look thru several pages when you think you are in the right location.  Even if you do not find what you want right away, you will definitely receive a good education along the way.

Tinker

 

[topchippie]

Got it thanks to ryansmythe. Regards TC

 

[woodshopdemos]

Sorry to be late with this:
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/fes-sq-2.htm

Using razor blade for getting exact lines for guide rail.

 

[Ned]

I really liked John's razor idea, but there are a few problems:

1.  Call me fumble fingers, but I thought holding a single edged blade against the MFS extrusion and tapping it was harder than it had to be.  I ended up turning the blade on a corner and tapping the opposite corner.  Then the steel piece covering the top of the blade would slide.

2.  Razor blades are sharper than this job requires.  There is a potential for cutting yourself or the rubber on the rail.

3.  If a blade snaps off with a bit of metal in the work, it's going to be a problem.

Today I found a better solution than razor blades -- glazier's points.

[attachimg=1]

It's as if they were made for the task.  The two ears provide a surface to drive and a rectangular magnet holds the point firmly.  The top of the magnet extends above the height of the extrusion.  Light taps on the magnet with a small hammer set the point.  Easy to remove, too.

One more thing-- the ears make it clear which side the guide rail should go.  If you mark work with the points and don't immediately set the guide rail, you'll still know where it goes.

Ned

 

[Brice Burrell]

Very nice tip Ned.

 

[Steven in Iowa]

Today I found a better solution than razor blades -- glazier's points.

Very nice Ned, I like it.

 

[Eli]

Nice tip.

If you got a couple of hot assistants, John would have some real competition.

 

[woodshopdemos]

Ned,
  I like your idea and will happily give it a try. That is what is great about FOG forum.