REALLY great TS55/MFT workflow video

[nanook]

Just saw this - really great thinking for a jobsite table.    Makes a GREAT argument for avoiding the MFT for standard 90degree stuff!
I'll be incorporating a lot of this workflow into my shop use

 

[3PedalMINI]

Hey! i didnt realize you could use the LR32 Rail with the TS 55/75. Makes taking the plunge into the LR32 world even more justified.  [big grin]

THanks for sharing! also thats a great video! to bad I dont know how to speak german  [eek]

 

[bwiele]

The LR 32 rails are exactly the same, but with the 32mm holes in it.  Commonly referred to here as the Holy Rail.  I needed a long rail (as most of us do) and it was obvious I would get the Holy one.  I won't buy another rail without the holes...

 

[panelchat]

nice video. and a cool set of home made parallel guides.

nanook- do you find the MFT not so great for 90 cuts? (i ask because i find the miter and rail height systems are a little wobbly for my needs, and only work well for accurate, repeat 90 cuts for cabinetry when used w/ precision dogs or other ad hoc arrangements to set 90. i'm wondering what other people's issues are with the system)

 

[fastbike]

You might want to revisit your adjustmentsand setup on the clamping mechanism. My rail brackets lock absolutely tight. The Festool training video for the MFT setup gives some great tips.
I do typically use dogs to set 90 for the protractor, but once set with the end clamp in place, the protractor is absolutely rigid.

nice video. and a cool set of home made parallel guides.

nanook- do you find the MFT not so great for 90 cuts? (i ask because i find the miter and rail height systems are a little wobbly for my needs, and only work well for accurate, repeat 90 cuts for cabinetry when used w/ precision dogs or other ad hoc arrangements to set 90. i'm wondering what other people's issues are with the system)

 

[Birdhunter]

What was the support table in the video?

 

[andy5405]

What was the support table in the video?

It's made by Wolfcraft who also make a copy of the MFT.

Wolcraft MFT copy

 

[Deadskins]

I was going to have my wife, Ulrike, translate.  But, she does not exactly know how much these cost ???

 

[sancho57]

As always
Guido ist die bombe

[big grin]

I wish he'd come over here and give some seminars, I bet they would fill up inna heart beat.

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

I was under the impression that the "Holy Rail" (LR32) was only available in 1400mm length.

The FS rail the guy in the video was using looked to be about 2400mm-2700mm long.

Anyone shed some light on this?

Tim (Distinctive Interiors)

Edit. Just did a quick search and found this :- http://www.festool.co.uk/Products/Accessories/Pages/Detail.aspx?pid=491622&name=Guide-rails-with-rows-of-holes-FS-2424-2-LR-32

You live and learn, sorry guys!!!!!

 

[semenza]

I was under the impression that the "Holy Rail" (LR32) was only available in 1400mm length.

The FS rail the guy in the video was using looked to be about 2400mm-2700mm long.

Anyone shed some light on this?

Tim (Distinctive Interiors)

Edit. Just did a quick search and found this :- http://www.festool.co.uk/Products/Accessories/Pages/Detail.aspx?pid=491622&name=Guide-rails-with-rows-of-holes-FS-2424-2-LR-32

You live and learn, sorry guys!!!!!

It is also available in 2424mm (about 95") 491 622

Seth

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Thanks Seth, i just found it on the UK Festool site.
The difference in price between the standard 2400mm rail and the 2400mm LR32 rail, is'nt that much really! Not when you think what the holy rail gives you in return for the extra money spent.

Thanks again! [big grin]

Tim.

 

[panelchat]

this vid would be nice a nice sales piece for people considering buying a track saw, but who are reluctant to make that step because they can't spend the cash on the additional accessories that make the overall work setup. it shows very clearly how one can use the saw alone to make guides, table, etc. for better workflow. then they can consider buying further into the system later on. i made some similar setups myself (not as clean as Guido's), then later on opted for the MFT when more paid work started coming in.

fastbike- thanks for suggestions. i find that the left clamp unit for the fence tends to shift laterally 1mm or so as i work the clamp down. so i don't use it and instead just use two precision dogs at the rear left and right of the fence and set it that way. then i just leave them in for constant firm registration. its a bit lazy but it works fine. i need to tinker with the rail riser mechanism some more, but i've been finding it shifts left and right as you move it up and down, and will hold the shifted location when clamped down. i prefer it to be very square, all i'm doing is cabinetry, so keeping very square pays off.

 

[harry_]

It is also available in 2424mm (about 95") 491 622

Seth

Your search had no results. Please try again. [scared]

 

[peter halle]

Harry,

I searched and found it.  Did you type in the correct number?

Just kidding.  Thanks for the heads up, our Festool Friend made sure it is there now.

Peter

 

[RandyB]

Where can I find those saw horse tables in that video.  I like that for breaking down sheet goods.  Or can someone suggest a better idea.  Would the mft tables be better.  Seems like you would need two of them at minimum

 

[harry_]

I use my MFT/3 with my CT33 with a few systainers (sys3 +sys1?) on top. I can get an almost uniform height across the two. While it may not be ideal, it gets the job done with a small footprint and is convenient as the end goal of cutting (for me) is to work on the table which will happen as soon as I get the sheet goods cut down to size.

[edit]
ps: my CT33 has a garage.

 

[epicxt]

I use my MFT/3 with my CT33 with a few systainers (sys3 +sys1?) on top. I can get an almost uniform height across the two. While it may not be ideal, it gets the job done with a small footprint and is convenient as the end goal of cutting (for me) is to work on the table which will happen as soon as I get the sheet goods cut down to size.

[edit]
ps: my CT33 has a garage.

Ditto for me. I've got a ct26 and with a few sustainers get within 1/2". Sometimes I make a plywood top to fit over the sustainers to get it leveled up.

 

[fastbike]

Are we talking about the same pieces? I don't think left and right for the rail as set from the factory, but rather front and back.

The rail riser clamps go tight to the factory stops, then get clamped to the extrusions, which should prevent any lateral movement. You should also be able to adjust the vertical clamping such that they move easily when unclamped, yet will prevent any downward movement when clamped.

fastbike- thanks for suggestions. i find that the left clamp unit for the fence tends to shift laterally 1mm or so as i work the clamp down. so i don't use it and instead just use two precision dogs at the rear left and right of the fence and set it that way. then i just leave them in for constant firm registration. its a bit lazy but it works fine. i need to tinker with the rail riser mechanism some more, but i've been finding it shifts left and right as you move it up and down, and will hold the shifted location when clamped down. i prefer it to be very square, all i'm doing is cabinetry, so keeping very square pays off.

 

[greg mann]

I believe the reference was to the clamp that stabilizes the far end of the fence. It rides in the v-groove on the MFT/3. I don't seem to have any problem using mine and having it distort the fence but maybe the OP does. Using Qwas dogs behind the fence pretty much negates any issue with stability. Note, I haven't done that myself but I think it a great idea.