Recommended tooling for OF1400 and Domino with Baltic Birch Plywood

[Nick C]

I'm having a problem burining router bits when cutting BB plywood with the OF1400. Dados are the biggest problem--the bit loses its edge quickly, and I get cuts that are progresssively more ragged. Even doing a 6mm x 6mm groove with three passes is difficult. I think the glue is responsible for this--fouling the cutter, which then runs hotter and delivers an inferior cut. Can anyone recommend a brand or type of router bit that would work well in this material? I'm also concerned about the Domino cutters wearing out prematurely. Has anyone had a problem with this?

 

[semenza]

I'm having a problem burining router bits when cutting BB plywood with the OF1400. Dados are the biggest problem--the bit loses its edge quickly, and I get cuts that are progresssively more ragged. Even doing a 6mm x 6mm groove with three passes is difficult. I think the glue is responsible for this--fouling the cutter, which then runs hotter and delivers an inferior cut. Can anyone recommend a brand or type of router bit that would work well in this material? I'm also concerned about the Domino cutters wearing out prematurely. Has anyone had a problem with this?

What type/ brand of bits are you using in the router?

Have not noticed any problem with Domino cutters, and I use it in a lot of plywood.

Seth

 

[erock]

I have the OF1400 and cut plywood all the time. I like Whiteside router bits from Woodcraft.  I have the plywood dado set and have been very happy with it.

I still have some old Ryobi router bits (a christmas gift years ago) and have used them with my OF1400 and with my Porter Cable router in my router table,

and have little or no burning.  But I would not recommend the Ryobi bits.  You get what you pay for.

I also use Sommerfields router bits.  Those are great bits as well.

Eric

 

[woodie]

I have the 1400 as well and have had great results with Whiteside downcut spiral bits. I generally wipe bits down with CMT cleaner to remove glue build up. I've had no burning in either Baltic Birch or Apply Ply.

 

[mouppe]

Are you using a straight bit. I have found that they are not very good for cutting dadoes- I used a 1/4" Freud straight bit for this once and it was quite poor.

One thing I would suggest- apart from using spiral bits as has been mentioned- is to use a smaller diameter cutter, route to full depth, and then move the router laterally and make a clean up pass either side to get your final dimension.

Never had a problem with the domino cutters in plywood.

 

[lambeater]

I'm having a problem burining router bits when cutting BB plywood with the OF1400. Dados are the biggest problem--the bit loses its edge quickly, and I get cuts that are progresssively more ragged. Even doing a 6mm x 6mm groove with three passes is difficult. I think the glue is responsible for this--fouling the cutter, which then runs hotter and delivers an inferior cut. Can anyone recommend a brand or type of router bit that would work well in this material? I'm also concerned about the Domino cutters wearing out prematurely. Has anyone had a problem with this?

I have just been using freud bits in my router table to groove dado's no issues at all!
thx
Lambeater

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Are you using a straight bit. I have found that they are not very good for cutting dadoes- I used a 1/4" Freud straight bit for this once and it was quite poor.

One thing I would suggest- apart from using spiral bits as has been mentioned- is to use a smaller diameter cutter, route to full depth, and then move the router laterally and make a clean up pass either side to get your final dimension.

Never had a problem with the domino cutters in plywood.

+1

 

[Kevin D.]

I've been using Leigh spiral upcut bits for BB with no problems using my OF1400.

I have also ploughe a good thousand plus mortises into BB with my 5mm Dominocutter and am still going strong.

 

[Nick C]

OK. Thanks to all for the feedback. I was using an Osrud HSS 1/4" up-cut spiral cutter. I chose the up-cut to help keep the groove clear. Going with the grain of the veneer face was great. Going across the grain was not. I got raised fuzzy edges, due, no doubt, to the up-cut spriral. I will try a down-cut spiral and make more passes. I was also getting the BB ply glue accumulating on the bit and eventually causing burning. A little 600W&D plus bit cleaner should cure this. Thanks again.

 

[ccarrolladams]

While it is true that an up-cutting spiral bit will keep the bottom of a grove clear, is that so important? isn't this why we use dust extraction?

What works much better is to use down-cutting spiral bits for groves and dadoes to reduce tear-out of veneer.

Any router bit will be a problem making groves and dadoes in a single pass, because one side will be cut in the wrong direction. Using a down-cutter will reduce the wrong-direction issue. A popular approach is to still use a down-cutter spiral bit, but only about 2/3 in diameter of the grove width. You make one pass going the correct direction for the side which needs to look the best. Then you adjust so the second pass will bring the grove to the full width, but that time you move the router the other way, so the final pass is in the correct direction for that side.

A huge advantage to this two step groving technique is that you do not need an inventory of many bits. Not all sheet material is 3/4" or 19mm or 18mm. Often the piece going into the grove needs to be snug, or firm fit. Instead of changing bits, just adjust the offset for that second pass.