Refinishing Log Cabin Siding

[DougG]

I'm looking to refinish the log cabin siding on my house.  I don't have a picture of the actual condition at my house, but here's basically what's on the side of my house:

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It's 2x8 pine siding, so it's not actually a log cabin, but it has a bit of a curve to it.  There's square stock in the corner boards, and flat trim around the windows (painted).  It hasn't been stained in quite a while (some fading, especially where exposed to the sun), there are a few water marks in some areas, etc.

Inspired by the SysNotes for May 2008 and a post here from Frank Pellow about resoring the exterior of a cedar cabin, I thought I'd ask my opinion on what Festool tools might work.

House is a little over 1000 square feet (92.9 square meters), not counting the garage.  One story, should be easily reached by ladders.  I don't own a CT vac, as I've been getting away with a wet/dry vac on my TS 55.  I do have a random orbit sander from the local home improvement store, but that's about it.

I've thought about the Rotex RO 150 (with 496647 Interface Pad) to get the bulk of it sanded.  Also, I'm considering the RO 90 (possibly with the 497481 Interface Pad) for harder to reach places (not much more than the DX 93 E, with similar use with the triangular head).  The articles I linked to above also used the LS 130 EQ Linear Sander, but I'm trying to keep costs down (can't buy all three).  Would the LS 130 be ideal for the bulk of the work, rather than the RO 150?  If I went with the LS 130, should I go with the DIY profile kit?  Or would the RO 150 with interface pad be sufficient?  What about using an oscillating multi tool (which I already own) with sanding pads for the detail work in the little nooks and crannies?

Also, any suggestions on what to stain/finish it with when finished?  I'm looking fore something close to a cedar color, probably semi-transparent, with good UV resistance.  My guess is the wood will be pretty thirsty, so it might need a few coats.

 

[bigjonh]

RO with an interface pad will be faster than the linear sander.

 

[DougG]

I take it the linear sander is more for finishing?  Even though there are P40 and P60 sheets available as far as I remember?

 

[semenza]

I take it the linear sander is more for finishing?  Even though there are P40 and P60 sheets available as far as I remember?

Welcome to the forum.  The LS130 will do course sanding but it would take a really, really long time to do a job like you have. And I don't think the custom profile kit would help much at all.  I think the RO150 with interface pad is the way to go.  The edge protector that comes with it should help keep from gouging the adjacent piece. RO90 is a bit small for the amount you need to get done in my opinion but it does have the delta head.  Your oscillating multitool  would probably suffice for  nooks and crannies if you don't want to buy two new sanders.

Seth

 

[DougG]

What are your thoughts on something like an ETS 150, with coarse paper (like P36 or P40) instead of a Rotex?  This would replace my old random orbital, and I'd probably see more random orbital use for future woodworking projects than aggressive rotex sanding.  But that's just a guess.

 

[Walk On Wood]

As others have said, the RO150 w interface pad will work the best, but will miss a lot of areas.  The RO90 would be able to get it all... If it has to be only one sander, i think I'd go with the 90, but the combo of RO150 and RO90 would be the perfect match.

 

[semenza]

What are your thoughts on something like an ETS 150, with coarse paper (like P36 or P40) instead of a Rotex?  This would replace my old random orbital, and I'd probably see more random orbital use for future woodworking projects than aggressive rotex sanding.  But that's just a guess.

The ETS150 / 5 would do well also, but the Rotex will still be faster. Also note that the RO150 has a random orbit mode.

Seth

 

[w802h]

Most stains don't need a lot of sanding prep.  Stains, particularly semi-transparent stains generally penetrate the wood and don't build a film like paint.  I would wash the house with a DILUTED bleach and TSP solution using a brush and pole and glasses, gloves, hat.  There are some non-bleach cleaners out there as well.  That should take care of the water spots etc.  The RO 90 would work for trim areas and spots that needed more than a cleaning.  Cleaning is an important part of exterior refinishing.  See how far that gets you first.  Pine is notorious for staining/blue streaks.  If the water stains penetrate deeply (early stage of rot) you may consider replacement or accept some variation in color to your semi-transparent product.  No amount of sanding will remove a really deep stain.