Remove Satin Lacquer from Kahrs flooring

[paul_david_thomas]

Hi,

I'm going to purchase a RO125 on Monday/Tuesday. I would like to remove the Satin Lacquer that is on this flooring product :-

http://www.kahrs.com/uk/Consumer/Products/Floors/WoodSpecies/Pages/Product.aspx?article=152N55VA50

I've got 4mm of walnut to play with (11mm engineered backing board) - so I'd say quite a lot of play. However, I don't know too much about "grit" levels, I think it's one of those things you get used to after using the stuff.

I'd appreciate any advice you can give.

I will be removing the lacquer then building some furniture from it, then re-lacquering it.

Paul.

 

[EcoFurniture]

I would send it through the thickness planer. Maybe not the best for the blades but way faster than sanding ;D

 

[paul_david_thomas]

I'd say, to remove the lacquer, that would be overkill ?!? Equally, I don't have such a beast... I don't do enough with rough timber or incorrectly sized timber to warrant such a beast. I was thinking of a brief sanding with 50 grit, then bring it up a little until I have a rough, but clear of lacquer surface ??

I'm not trying to remove the backing material (i.e. the 11mm of birch). I'm happy that stays put. Well, I lie a little I do need to remove (in one section) this 11mm of birch - and for that job, the thickness planer would be spot on. However, I have a cunning trick to do that with - I'll post pictures on Monday (if it works), ah hell, even if it doesn't I post pictures - surely we can just post success pictures... Life is not like that !

 

[jaegerhund]

Hi Paul ---- I have the RO125 and in rotary mode it is pretty aggressive.  I've been using is to restore some double-hung windows with caked on paint.  Using Crystal in 60 grit in high in Rotary mode it does a pretty quick job of this.  So with a thin coat of lacquer, maybe start with 80-100 grit and start with a lower speed in Rotary mode.  In the lower grits, and not being careful as to keeping the sander flat, you can easily remove more than intended.

Is Lacquer here a generic term or do they mean specifically lacquer and what type?

Justin

 

[paul_david_thomas]

The term "lacquer" is a pretty generic term to be honest. Basically, I've got a few sq meters of Walnut engineered flooring left over and I want to use it for another job. Looking at the manufacturers site, the lacquer they use is -

"Our silk matt lacquer complements the wood's character by accentuating its natural living structure. This makes the floor more hardwearing and easier to clean. At the same time, the lacquer is one of the very thinnest available and does not conceal the beautiful floor surface."

as such, I think a pretty light sanding over - as you say with a 80-100 might just pull the stuff out. To be honest, I think I will need to take perhaps .2mm out of it, to remove the very light see-through stain it has.

Paul.

 

[jaegerhund]

Cool Paul --- I think 80-100 grit is about right --- Crystal or maybe even Brilliant should work nicely --- good luck.

Justin

 

[Jack Rafter]

I guess I'm just compelled to say this. . . If it's lacquer why not just use lacquer thinner?

 

[jaegerhund]

I guess I'm just compelled to say this. . . If it's lacquer why not just use lacquer thinner?

Thanks Joe --- I wasn't sure but this was one of the reasons why I wanted to know if it was really lacquer.  Does lacquer thinner only work with the nitrocellulose (traditional) kind or will it remove the CAB-acrylic  and catalyzed varieties?

Justin

 

[nickao]

I do this almost everyday as clients send me flooring from their actual floor to use in floor inlays.

Use the drum sander or planer and just skim a 1/64 each pass until the finish is gone.

Lacquer or not, the prefinished products are durable and 99% likely has aluminum oxide or comparable chemical added to make the finish super tough, again  lacquer or not.

There is no way a drum sander or planer will hurt the flooring. If you are taking off the right amount after the first pass you will still have parts of the finish on the board , then lower it a little and make another pass.

This is the best way as an RO will work, but why use it if you have a planer or thickness sander? More than likely an 80 grit will not remove it easily, as I said the prefinished product are super hard.

Nickao

 

[Ivans Dad]

I agree with Nick. 
My business does hardwood flooring work and he is correct in that most pre finished flooring material has very hard finish on it.  I also agree that a thickness planer or drum sander are the best tools for the job, but if you don't have either than the rotex will certainly work.  I would recommend sanding with 60 grit.  If that works then great if not then go down to 40 grit.  If you do need to sand with 40 then you should go over it again with 60 and then 100 or.  Also lacquer thinner will not affect or remove the finish at all.  Good luck!

 

[paul_david_thomas]

Nick, Ian...

Thanks guys... I have to admit, this flooring is pretty hard. I laid about 80sq m a year ago and my two hunting dogs have not caused it any real damage, no surface broken. My purchase decision was made after getting the dogs to bite the flooring and look at the result - perhaps not scientific, but a nice indicator - almost like the Brinell scale

Any how...

I've just found a BOSCH GHO 26-82 110v planer. I might go down to my local tool store and purchase a new blade and attempt to give it a pass set REALLY tight and see if that works on the face of the material. I'll keep the scrapings to mix with glue just in case I need to do any filling. I've not used this planer for ages, still currently sold... I will just have to be careful !!

 

[paul_david_thomas]

Right...

The local tool store had a festool day today (and tomorrow) so I took the offending bit of material down with me. I was going to buy a RO125, but after having a go with both, went for a RO150... More about that later...

As we were removing a surface the guy recommended a crystal paper ?!? So we started high and went low until we found one that would take. We got to 80grit and it was removing material. So, you can see in the picture below the result of running a RO150 with Crystal 80 paper over it. We didn't then bring it up the grits to get a better finish...

I then put some Textrol penetrating oil on to see the result... I thought rather nice...

Alas, after paying for my RO150 110V, they realised they didn't have any in stock... So... the nice dealer man gave me a heap load of "sample" 150 sandpapers... A range from 40 up to 400 (I think) in various types a nice little FESTOOL bag. The shop gave me a ?10 voucher and said, when I come to pick it up (few days) they will add some more things to make it worth my while... So, I will put this job off til next week and be a happy camper...

 

[jaegerhund]

Alright Paul ---- good job and enjoy your new tool (when you get it)

Justin

 

[Ivans Dad]

Looks great!
It has been my experience thaton Walnut (and most other woods) Tung oil finish is the way to go.  Nothing brings out the grain and luster of the wood more.  Did you sand with the rotex function first to get the finish off?  I also bought the 150 and love it!