Removing thick film finish with Rotex RO150

[dzehner2]

Hello members of the FOG! I've been a long time lurker, and this is my first post. I'm hoping you can help me out with an issue I'm having.

I'm working on refinishing a table top for a friend made out of monkey pod wood that they've had in their family since the '50s, and it has a really thick film finish that I'm having a hard time getting off.
This is the table after about an hour of sanding on Rotex mode (Speed 1-2) with P60 Granat paper:

[attachimg=2]
I can tell there's still a significant amount of material left to remove... Any ideas on what I need to do differently to get this process going quicker? A lower grit abrasive? Different type of abrasive? Napalm??

 

[tbellemare]

Have you tried turning up the sander speed?

Tom

 

[dzehner2]

I did try that, and it just gummed up the paper quickly without a marked improvement in material removal (I can post pictures of those results when I get back in the shop tonight). I noticed when I turned the speed up that instead of kicking out dust, the finish was coming off in balled up clumps, which probably means I was melting it.

 

[tbellemare]

It might work quite well to get those balled up clumps. I removed a BUNCH of glue with the RO 90 on speed "6" and P60 Granat. It all just balled up and was gone fairly quickly. The paper didn't actually get clogged. The glue was left over from removing a bunch of Formica.

Tom

 

[dzehner2]

It might work quite well to get those balled up clumps. I removed a BUNCH of glue with the RO 90 on speed "6" and P60 Granat. It all just balled up and was gone fairly quickly. The paper didn't actually get clogged. The glue was left over from removing a bunch of Formica.

Tom

I'll have to give that a shot! I think as soon as I saw that happening I stopped, thinking I was just gumming up the works. There was some dark residue on the abrasive disc, so I was thinking it was getting clogged. I'll post a picture of that when I get a chance.

 

[teocaf]

put the rotex away and go with a card scraper.  for your application of just removing old finish, you may not even need to turn a hook on the edge with a burnisher.  just square up the edge with a file and then hone it on a fine stone and you can scrape off all that old stuff in a hurry.  it's very easy and cheap (just watch a video or two if you're not familiar with this old school technique) and you will save lots in frustration and sanding discs.  then go back to the rotex.

 

[dzehner2]

put the rotex away and go with a card scraper.  for your application of just removing old finish, you may not even need to turn a hook on the edge with a burnisher.  just square up the edge with a file and then hone it on a fine stone and you can scrape off all that old stuff in a hurry.  then go back to the rotex.

Good idea! I did resort to a hand plane at one point last night, but a card scraper is a great idea.

 

[mastercabman]

It could be a lot of wax build up

 

[bertv]

I expect you’d be better off with trying to get that build up removed with chemicals, before doing any surface sanding.

 

[greg mann]

Better yet, use a Bahco carbide bladed paint scraper. Hyde makes one too but the Bahco has a little better ergonomics. The blade has a very slight radius to it so you won't leave any ridges and the carbide will save having to re-sharpen. Then you can just finish up with a higher grit after the film is gone, if needed.

 

[Holmz]

I was thinking similar with one of the paint planers/scrapers that have the round/cylindrical blades that whizzes around like a merry-go-round on speed.

 

[rst]

I concur with the scraping first advise. scrape and then sand.

 

[Tayler_mann]

Go to a lower grit and turn your extractor down all the way or to about 1/4 speed. We just did a gym floor with a synthetic polyurethane meant for gym floors and used 40 grit granat  to get it down to bare wood. The sanding process took is under 8 hours for 256 swift of wood and 4 grits of paper.. Also remember not to push on the sander just let it float and cut instead of jam and mar. Also keep your sander speed at about 4-5.

The most important part is to move your sander and not concentrate in one area. If you do you will heat the finish up and clog up your paper in a hurry. If you do this you shouldn't have any problems with this project just keep sanding.

 

[sancho57]

I'd start by wiping it with a rag soaked in denatured alcohol or get some wax remover. If that works then sand it.

Example only, I don't necessarily advise using this particular product. Not saying it won't work, just posting this to give a idea that the stuff is out there.

http://www.amazon.com/Liberon-Wax-Polish-Remover-250ml/dp/B000TVH01M/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1438413188&sr=8-10&keywords=Furniture+Wax+remover

Product Description
Liberon Wax & Polish Remover removes old wax, dirt, smoke and grime from antique and modern wood furniture and interior woodwork including doors, beams, dado rails and bannisters without harming the original finish and patina. This unique formula should not lift veneers or raise the grain, making it suitable for even the most delicate surfaces. Use to remove built up layers of wax which may be causing a haze or bloom on the surface. Directions For best results soak a pad of Liberon Extra Fine Steel Wool (0000) in Wax & Polish Remover and gently wash the surface going with the grain where possible. Allow a few minutes for the Wax & Polish Remover to work, then while the suface is still wet, use a clean lint free cotton cloth to wipe off all the old softened wax. Repeat this process until all the old wax is removed. Allow 24 hours for the treated surface to dry completely before re-finishing. Please refer to product label for complete product information.

 

[dzehner2]

Go to a lower grit and turn your extractor down all the way or to about 1/4 speed. We just did a gym floor with a synthetic polyurethane meant for gym floors and used 40 grit granat  to get it down to bare wood. The sanding process took is under 8 hours for 256 swift of wood and 4 grits of paper.. Also remember not to push on the sander just let it float and cut instead of jam and mar. Also keep your sander speed at about 4-5.

The most important part is to move your sander and not concentrate in one area. If you do you will heat the finish up and clog up your paper in a hurry. If you do this you shouldn't have any problems with this project just keep sanding.

Part of my problem is most definitely using my old, tired, Shop Vac... An extractor is on my list of tools once I get some more commission money!

 

[dzehner2]

I'd start by wiping it with a rag soaked in denatured alcohol or get some wax remover. If that works then sand it.

Example only, I don't necessarily advise using this particular product. Not saying it won't work, just posting this to give a idea that the stuff is out there.

http://www.amazon.com/Liberon-Wax-Polish-Remover-250ml/dp/B000TVH01M/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1438413188&sr=8-10&keywords=Furniture+Wax+remover

Product Description
Liberon Wax & Polish Remover removes old wax, dirt, smoke and grime from antique and modern wood furniture and interior woodwork including doors, beams, dado rails and bannisters without harming the original finish and patina. This unique formula should not lift veneers or raise the grain, making it suitable for even the most delicate surfaces. Use to remove built up layers of wax which may be causing a haze or bloom on the surface. Directions For best results soak a pad of Liberon Extra Fine Steel Wool (0000) in Wax & Polish Remover and gently wash the surface going with the grain where possible. Allow a few minutes for the Wax & Polish Remover to work, then while the suface is still wet, use a clean lint free cotton cloth to wipe off all the old softened wax. Repeat this process until all the old wax is removed. Allow 24 hours for the treated surface to dry completely before re-finishing. Please refer to product label for complete product information.

I wiped down the whole surface with some paint thinner and that worked wonders! The Rotex worked like a dream after that. I think the group consensus of some wax buildup hampering my efforts was right on. Thank you all for your help! [big grin]

 

[Laminator]

A good heat gun and an inch and a half putty knife should clean that in about 15 minutes.  Then sand the bare wood.

 

[teocaf]

A good heat gun and an inch and a half putty knife should clean that in about 15 minutes.  Then sand the bare wood.

You might be effectively pressing molten stuff into the wood which might affect ability of finish to stick later, unless you do an awful lot of sanding to get below everything.  Also super-heating one surface and not the other side might create more problems than it solves.  I could be wrong of course, I have never tried your approach--just thinking out loud here...

 

[Holmz]

...
Part of my problem is most definitely using my old, tired, Shop Vac...
...

^B$^  ...

(I do not have an RO) but about 90% of the posts I read talk about turning the vacuum down to minimum or the pad sucking down onto the surface.

So your vacuum could be 220v plugged into 110v and it would be enough, or everyone else is deluded.