Removing Titebond III from Bessey Revo K clamps

[Rick Herrick]

I have used these clamps a number of times now with doors and face frames and TB 1.  I took my first stab at glueing up a walnut cutting board.  I used too much glue and did not realize it would adhere to the clamps so well.  On one side I had to use a rubber mallet to break the connection.  I have tried to put tape on the indexed portion of the clamp before, but you can't move the clamp head past it.  I am not sure how to raise my clamped material up enough so as not to be touching the clamp.  So I am not sure what to ask other than what is the best way to remove this glue from the indexed rail of the clamp.  Was thinking a heat gun and a metal bristle brush?  Yeah, I screwed up, just looking for tips on how to fix this as well as how to do it differently next time.

 

[DynaGlide]

I am not sure how to raise my clamped material up enough so as not to be touching the clamp.

Hey Rick didn't your clamp come with some black stubby things that support the clamped material off the clamps?

 

[GarryMartin]

Check out the following from Bora; the linked YouTube video shows a Bessey clamp being cleaned.
https://boratool.com/blog/3-easy-ways-to-remove-glue-from-your-parallel-clamps-2-ways-to-prevent-it/

For the future, and as [member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] mentions, you should have had some plastic rail protectors with your clamps. If not, they're sold as replacements/accessories - you should look for BESSEY KRE-RPP K-BODY REVO RAIL PROTECTOR; they come in sets of two and cost circa $4.

 

[guybo]

Hi, blue painter's tape.guy

 

[ChuckM]

Raising the stock above the clamp bars helps but doesn't eliminate the problem because of glue drips/squeeze-out. Masking tape, wax paper, etc. will work, but it involves extra effort.

My solution (unless the gleu-up requires the use of the length and/or clamping force of the Bessey K-body clamps (over 36")):
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/clamps/bar/70618-dubuque-aluminum-bar-clamps

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Raising the stock above the clamp bars helps but doesn't eliminate the problem because of glue drips/squeeze-out. Masking tape, wax paper, etc. will work, but it involves extra effort.

My solution (unless the gleu-up requires the use of the length and/or clamping force of the Bessey K-body clamps (over 36")):
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/clamps/bar/70618-dubuque-aluminum-bar-clamps

It does however keep the bar from laying in the squeeze-out that comes up to the surface. I use them all the time, but I don't keep them on the bars at all times. I keep them in a drawer to use as needed.

As far as getting it off of the clamps, it's too late at this point, but I find that waxing the bars will keep it from sticking in the first place. I do it to keep solid surface fusion from sticking to mine. It does catch in the teeth/ridges, but will flick right out when picked with a knife or awl.

 

[Mortiser]

Rick, I use Johnson's Paste Wax on my K Revo clamps and it works well to keep glue from sticking. I put a coat on every month or so and wipe off the excess.
I would caution that you not use wax on Bessey EZS or EHK clamps as the wax will keep the clamp from gripping the bar and it will not tighten fully. That is not a problem on the K Revo's bar.
----
Rich

 

[Mini Me]

Having glued many many table tops the true answer is to avoid having squeeze out to the extent seen in the pics. It takes a bit of faith to realise how little glue gets the job done and even more faith to give the glue a bit of time to tack off before joining the panels. Have a practise with some scrap and you will find another side benefit is that the movement most complain of in misalignment is minimised or eliminated. The movement is the wood floating on the excessive amount of glue because the wood edges can't touch until the excess glue is squeezed out. I never use biscuits, dominos or dowels for alignment because the panels don't move enough to worry about and a few licks with a plane might be the most work needed post glue up.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

It does however keep the bar from laying in the squeeze-out that comes up to the surface. I use them all the time, but I don't keep them on the bars at all times. I keep them in a drawer to use as needed.

A typical clamp has two pads. If the panel glue-up is wide, the pads may or may not keep the whole panel off the clamps. Glue drips sometimes happen, too, even if the panel is not in contact with the bars.

 

[JackHustonsMissingFace]

Lumberjocks forum has some good threads on this. I wax it. Can use tape as well. I thought someone mentioned vinegar once for removal. I wouldn't wire brush myself. Ask titebond as well.

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[Rick Herrick]

Thanks folks.  I do have the 'riser feet' but I couldn't figure out how to use them in this situation.  After seeing Chuck's picture, I took a few more pictures to see how I could use the feet.  Remember this is not wide board glue up, its much smaller pieces for a cutting board.  I could wrap some plywood strips and put them on top of the riser feet but other than that, I can't see another way to use them. 

I have tried blue tape in the past but you must be exact because the clamp doesn't like to move over that stuff.  Doable, yes, but just looking for a solution I can use over and over in case I like making these and want to do a bunch of them.

 

[Erich]

If your cutting boards are generally the same width or you do a couple of regular widths. Woodcraft sells 12 inch silicone bar clamp protectors.https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-12-bar-keep-silicone-clamp-protector-1-piece You can cut them to length to conform to the size that you need.

 

[Birdhunter]

I've glued the serrated bar on my clamps. Felt really dumb.

I know it sounds tedious, but I chipped the dried glue off using a single edge razor blade. The glue does chip off. An el cheapo chisel works also.

I get enough off that the clamp slides on the bar then let normal use wear the rest of the glue off.

I find that a good music station and a cold beer help with the job.

I've switched to TB's slow & thick glue as I don't get the runny squeeze out.

 

[ChuckM]

Thanks folks.  I do have the 'riser feet' but I couldn't figure out how to use them in this situation.  After seeing Chuck's picture, I took a few more pictures to see how I could use the feet.  Remember this is not wide board glue up, its much smaller pieces for a cutting board. 
Snip.

If I were doing the cutting board glue-up, I'd a) not use the pads, and b) put a piece of wax paper directly over the two bars under the glue-up. It's faster than using masking tape (no applying and peeling off one by one). If you're thrifty, the paper can be reused a couple more times.

I wouldn't put strips of wood as shown in your photo either, because it's extra work again to find or cut the strips to length, and they can fall off as you setup the blanks.

Lastly, here's why using dominoes for alignment in a wide and long panel glue-up is a good thing: I put three pads (4 if it's over 4' wide) on the each bar, the panel would be held in one piece because of the dominoes and uniformly over the bars. I bought the extra pads from Lee Valley. Without the dominoes, it's pretty messy to try to align and glue up 8 to 10 planks at the same time (see my last photo being checked for flatness with a Veritas straightedge).

But as I said, most of my usual glue-ups are done on the Dubuque clamps -- no need to worry about glue spills. They're very strong...watch out for overclamping!

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Snip.

It does however keep the bar from laying in the squeeze-out that comes up to the surface. I use them all the time, but I don't keep them on the bars at all times. I keep them in a drawer to use as needed.

A typical clamp has two pads. If the panel glue-up is wide, the pads may or may not keep the whole panel off the clamps. Glue drips sometimes happen, too, even if the panel is not in contact with the bars.

Since I have a bunch of these clamps and keep the riser pads in a drawer for ease of use, I can put a few on each clamp bar. I usually do at least 3, with one in the middle to keep the bar from bowing.

 

[thudchkr]

How bout the simplest method. Lay out your material(s) atop something that positions  them above your surface and then put the clamps on from above. If you use the black risers, it will hold them above any glue squeeze out.

If you want other clamps on the other side, (to make sure your pressure is even), then just turn your glue up over and repeat.

 

[ChuckM]

How bout the simplest method. Lay out your material(s) atop something that positions  them above your surface and then put the clamps on from above. If you use the black risers, it will hold them above any glue squeeze out

That "something" may not be that simple to come by as the glue-up can vary in size and thickness from project to project, and each time that "something" of the proper size has to be found. If one is gluing up multiple identical objects, it may even be harder to find all the riser blocks needed.

 

[Sparktrician]

If you're a tightwad (like me), you can wrap the clamp's bar with wax paper taped with blue tape or strips of aluminum foil to keep the glue off the bar.  [smile]

 

[Mini Me]

just looking for a solution I can use over and over in case I like making these and want to do a bunch of them.

My solution works well and saves glue but others here seem to want to do it the other way round, waste glue and fix the clamps later. Honestly, I have been using the same clamps for years and don't have the problem which to me seems to be the ultimate solution. Try it on some off cuts and see how well it works for yourself, If you get squeeze out to the degree it drops on the clamps reduce the amount of glue and do it again. The misalignment/sliding problem is also reduced or goes away as well if you allow the glue to tack off a little bit.

 

[CeeJay]

I usually use a piece of ply or MDF slightly narrower than the glue up, sitting on the Bessey plastic riser clips.

Some blue tape along the ply or MDF where the glue lines are.

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