Removing Titebond III from Bessey Revo K clamps

[Rick Herrick]

But as I said, most of my usual glue-ups are done on the Dubuque clamps -- no need to worry about glue spills. They're very strong...watch out for overclamping!

Chuck/Willy, I too will just focus on the wax paper method but I wanted more on these clamps above.  I looked at them and they appear to have a notch in the rail as part of the ratcheting mechanism.  How are glue spills avoided with these?  I am missing something here.

 

[JackHustonsMissingFace]

But as I said, most of my usual glue-ups are done on the Dubuque clamps -- no need to worry about glue spills. They're very strong...watch out for overclamping!

Chuck/Willy, I too will just focus on the wax paper method but I wanted more on these clamps above.  I looked at them and they appear to have a notch in the rail as part of the ratcheting mechanism.  How are glue spills avoided with these?  I am missing something here.

I had 15 dubuques in 24 32 and 36 iirc. The aluminum is much easier to get glue off of. For one the super small detents on the besseys are difficult to worn with but the aluminum is more glossy and polished.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[ChuckM]

What Jack said about removing the glue which doesn't stick well on aluminium when it dries. Unlike glue spilled on the Bessey's teeth, small glue left in the notches on the bar won't affect the clamping function. I've removed the glue skins on my Dubuque bars occasionally, but don't recall ever doing that to the notches. The clamps are over 5 to 8 years old as I bought them in different times.

 

[Christophl]

Blue masking tape is dandy and cheap  [wink]

 

[Rick Herrick]

I did a couple more cutting board glue-ups today.  Just used the wax paper, cut just the length I needed.  I'll know if the morning if I have a problem but I don't think so.  I ended up using a wire brush wheel in my drill to clean off the glue on the other set of clamps.  Thats one mistake I hope I never make again.

 

[Alanbach]

I chipped the glue off once, years ago, with an old chisel. I never wanted to do that again. So an old=timer woodworker friend of mine gave me the miracle cure that I have used ever since, beeswax. I buy unpurified chunks of it from beekeepers that sell their honey at local farmers markets. I just rub it across the clamp bars every few times that I use them. The glue just jumps off of them after it dries, I still use that same old chisel although sometimes a fingernail is enough.

 

[Packard]

Maybe I missed this in one of the earlier posts, but acetone is supposed to dissolve Titebond after it has dried.

From Titebond's Frequently asked site:
http://www.titebond.com/resources/use/glues

Frequently Asked Questions
How do I remove Instant Bond from my skin or project?

Place a small amount of acetone on the effected area and rub until the adhesive has been removed. Please follow solvent vendor’s precautions. Nail polish remover can also be used to remove adhesive. Be cautious as these products are flammable and can irritate skin.

 

[ChuckM]

That piece of advice is for the two-part glue.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Instant Bond is a one part CA glue. Acetone dissolves all CA glues.

 

[ChuckM]

One part glue, two-part bonding.

Instant Bond:http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/9059d175-2198-4bbe-90d1-f2406dd7049a

 

[tallgrass]

I use poly tubing tubing from Uline. I bought a roll of it. Cut to length and then slid over rods. if the tube wears out, I just cut another piece of the roll.

 

[Michael Kellough]

One part glue, two-part bonding.

Instant Bond:http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/9059d175-2198-4bbe-90d1-f2406dd7049a

What is “two part bonding”? I followed the link and didn’t see that term.

 

[ChuckM]

You had me about what it really means...some kind of chemical process. See the term as used in its description.

 

[ChuckM]

I use poly tubing tubing from Uline. I bought a roll of it. Cut to length and then slid over rods. if the tube wears out, I just cut another piece of the roll.

I'm at a loss as to how this kind of tubing (or Woodcraft's silicone tubing) can be conveniently used. How long do you cut it for a 24" clamp, e.g.? If it's 24" to cover the whole bar, you can't use the clamp. If it's 12", then the other 12" of the bar is exposed and not protected. Or do you cut tubing of various lengths, and put on the one that fits for the job?

 

[Cheese]

I ended up using a wire brush wheel in my drill to clean off the glue on the other set of clamps. 

Use a light touch with that drill mounted wire brush, if you're too zealous and apply too much pressure or linger too long you can go through the cad plating...and then rust sets in.  [crying]

A plastic bristled brush or a brass bristled brush is kinder to the plating.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] the stuff that [member=2242]tallgrass[/member] is talking about is (I think) this stuff:
https://www.uline.com/Grp_43/Poly-Tubing

Its light weight plastic tube on a roll. Designed mostly for making your own bags for small parts. It's light enough that you can scrunch it up to go from the full clamp width to a smaller width. I think I may get some to try.

Being in the tube form it won't fall off in use.

Ron

 

[AlexThePalex]

What is “two part bonding”? I followed the link and didn’t see that term.

You had me about what it really means...some kind of chemical process. See the term as used in its description.

Most standard glues work by a solvent that evaporates out of the glue, leaving only the solid parts.

But a glue that uses "two part bonding" exists out of two different chemicals which you mix and then harden by a chemical reaction.

Sometimes that chemical reaction creates a new compound that's different from the two basic ingredients. But most of the time the "activator" simply causes a new alignment of the molecules in the main compound, changing them from chaotic movement like in a fluid, to a perfectly aligned molecule roster like in a solid.  A lot of epoxys can become a single molecule as big as an apple.
   
Because they rely on a chemical reaction, two part bonding systems can become a lot harder and stronger than single part glues.

 

[tallgrass]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] the stuff that [member=2242]tallgrass[/member] is talking about is (I think) this stuff:
https://www.uline.com/Grp_43/Poly-Tubing

Its light weight plastic tube on a roll. Designed mostly for making your own bags for small parts. It's light enough that you can scrunch it up to go from the full clamp width to a smaller width. I think I may get some to try.

Being in the tube form it won't fall off in use.

Ron

Yes, that is what I use. you can even slit it on the ends to give you adjustability without wrinkling. If you are using the clamping bars for alignment , themselves. The great thing is that it is cheap. no fighting with tape, no hassle.

 

[derekcohen]

I use blue tape .... but apply it only after opening the clamps to the desired size.

If I needed to remove glue, which I have not needed to do, my first port of call would be a heat gun, along with a scraper/chisel.

Regards from Perth

Derek