Here's a sketch-up drawing of a rip jig I made for the Festool TS55 + guide rail combo. You will need to make 2 of them (one for each end).
Basic use:
- stick one of these on each end of the rail, leaving space for the saw to cut w/o cutting through your jig (you'll need to start w. a plunge cut). I leave a 3-4" gap.
- Carefully align the rail to the workpiece so you get the required thickness.
- Slide the movable rectangle portion so it contacts the wood's edge (at each end). Hold these in position using knob / jig hardware of your choice (not shown) or a small clamp.
- Cut your strip, remove the strip, and then pull the rail so the 2 tabs are once again touching the wood. You are now setup for a rip of the exact same thickness.
The 2 holes are for mounting hardware (fasten into the rail _after_ you have put the clamps in). I did not get around to drawing the jig hardware to hold the small rectangular piece in place. I made mine out of wood to ensure that if I did cut into it that there would be no problems. Note that the size of the jig will depend on the width of strips that you plan on cutting (it needs to be large enough to accommodate the widest rip). Strength is not an issue here because these jigs are not holding anything down or in place... they are only being used as an index mechanism. I could see someone getting fancy and incorporating a tape or rule in the moving part of the jig... you would need to ensure that the jig has zero play in the rail (when inserted) and you'd need to set the tape once the jig is built and placed in the rail.
Enjoy!
Basic use:
- stick one of these on each end of the rail, leaving space for the saw to cut w/o cutting through your jig (you'll need to start w. a plunge cut). I leave a 3-4" gap.
- Carefully align the rail to the workpiece so you get the required thickness.
- Slide the movable rectangle portion so it contacts the wood's edge (at each end). Hold these in position using knob / jig hardware of your choice (not shown) or a small clamp.
- Cut your strip, remove the strip, and then pull the rail so the 2 tabs are once again touching the wood. You are now setup for a rip of the exact same thickness.
The 2 holes are for mounting hardware (fasten into the rail _after_ you have put the clamps in). I did not get around to drawing the jig hardware to hold the small rectangular piece in place. I made mine out of wood to ensure that if I did cut into it that there would be no problems. Note that the size of the jig will depend on the width of strips that you plan on cutting (it needs to be large enough to accommodate the widest rip). Strength is not an issue here because these jigs are not holding anything down or in place... they are only being used as an index mechanism. I could see someone getting fancy and incorporating a tape or rule in the moving part of the jig... you would need to ensure that the jig has zero play in the rail (when inserted) and you'd need to set the tape once the jig is built and placed in the rail.
Enjoy!
