Ken Nagrod
Member
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2010
- Messages
- 3,431
I've been dealing with loose receptacle terminals on my CT 36 for some time now. I've heard the groans of people in the past, but figured this issue was resolved on these newer models. Guess not. I've been dealing with the cord from a connected tool pulling out or starting to, and I shouldn't have to deal with that while cutting, sanding routing, etc. It can mess things up when your tool stops in the process of doing something or having to keep an eye on the plug's position is a pain as well.
I called up Lester the other day and told him about it. Asked if he could describe how to open up the receptacle to squeeze the terminals tighter. He advised against it because of the little parts within and it could be a hazard/liability issue. He said he was sending out a replacement. Got the replacement today and figured I'd post some pictures and info for anyone else that has to do this repair at some point.
You'll need 2 tools for this fix. If you have a toolie, everything is on board, otherwise get a Torx T-15 driver and a Phillips number 2 driver.
The receptacle cover is pressed onto the receptacle housing over a couple of plastic tabs. Carefully pull the cover straight out and off by grabbing the "flapper".
[attachimg=1]
It should now look like this.
[attachimg=2]
Here's the bag of replacement parts from Festool.
[attachimg=3]
Torx T-15 for the 4 screws that hold the receptacle into the CT
[attachimg=4]
Here's what the back of the receptacle looks like.
[attachimg=5]
Here's a view of the back of the receptacle from the top, down.
[attachimg=6]
Phillips #2 for the grounding lug.
[attachimg=7]
View of receptacle while still attached to CT. Noticed postion of the HOT (black) and NEUTRAL (white) wires. The terminals on the back of the receptacle are color coded to match - HOT (gold), NEUTRAL (silver).
[attachimg=8]
View with wires detached from the receptacle.
[attachimg=9]
I'm sure I'll take the old one apart to fix it, but at least the CT will not be down while doing that.
Thanks Les!
I called up Lester the other day and told him about it. Asked if he could describe how to open up the receptacle to squeeze the terminals tighter. He advised against it because of the little parts within and it could be a hazard/liability issue. He said he was sending out a replacement. Got the replacement today and figured I'd post some pictures and info for anyone else that has to do this repair at some point.
You'll need 2 tools for this fix. If you have a toolie, everything is on board, otherwise get a Torx T-15 driver and a Phillips number 2 driver.
The receptacle cover is pressed onto the receptacle housing over a couple of plastic tabs. Carefully pull the cover straight out and off by grabbing the "flapper".
[attachimg=1]
It should now look like this.
[attachimg=2]
Here's the bag of replacement parts from Festool.
[attachimg=3]
Torx T-15 for the 4 screws that hold the receptacle into the CT
[attachimg=4]
Here's what the back of the receptacle looks like.
[attachimg=5]
Here's a view of the back of the receptacle from the top, down.
[attachimg=6]
Phillips #2 for the grounding lug.
[attachimg=7]
View of receptacle while still attached to CT. Noticed postion of the HOT (black) and NEUTRAL (white) wires. The terminals on the back of the receptacle are color coded to match - HOT (gold), NEUTRAL (silver).
[attachimg=8]
View with wires detached from the receptacle.
[attachimg=9]
I'm sure I'll take the old one apart to fix it, but at least the CT will not be down while doing that.
Thanks Les!