Rip fence on TKS80

[sgia]

Hello, I am having some issues with the rip fence on my TKS80, and I wanted to ask if others are experiencing the same. On my old Bosch saw the fence was smooth and easy. With the TKS80, the fence binds and catches on the far side when I slide it, and it only straightens when I tighten the knob, so getting it in an exact position takes a few tries.

I make sure that the lever to lock the back rail is all the way open before moving.

I CAN get it to go where I need it, so it does work, but given the quality of the other accessories (sliding table, crosscut fence, etc)  it seems to lack the same quality and ease of function.

Any similar experiences or, hopefully, some advice to make it better?

Thanks,
SG

 

[FestitaMakool]

Hi,
It could be the same as other, including me has experienced.

Take a look in this thread, your fence may suffer wrongly assembled fence:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...cs-50cms-troubleshooting/msg607234/#msg607234

Photos are very helpful too [smile]

 

[sgia]

Ah, thank you, that's an insightful post.
I'll have a closer look at tweaking it and post my findings.

 

[easty]

When you move the fence the front moves first the rear lags behind and doesn't straighten until you lock it ? . I also have an issue with the side extension the fences jams between the main table and extension.

Rob

 

[sgia]

When you move the fence the front moves first the rear lags behind and doesn't straighten until you lock it ? . I also have an issue with the side extension the fences jams between the main table and extension.

Rob

Yes, this exactly. I also have the extension table and this problem as well.

 

[easty]

I am putting together a list of everything thats wrong with the table. I know features are missing but this list concentrates of parts of the table that are simply badly designed / or simply not working as I would expect.

1) Run a mid sized square down the rip fence on the main table it goes from square to not square. Please check yours

2) Sliding table with mitre fence. check the fence for square. Right now its not for me. Nothing to adjust, issue is the rubber V that clamps it in place.

3) table insert. No matter what I try cannot get it level. The best I can get it level at the front , small work pices catch on the fence side neat blade. due to a lack of support . Basically cheap plastic poor design. Heard of several instances where fingers have been pulled to the blade.

Let me know your issues

Rob

4) Do you humps lumps and bumps all over the table ? Had to send back first table as it was so bad. Second table now has a hump from right area. Please check yours with a staight edge.

5) cannot set blade 90 or 45 with using the + / - adjustment . Simply will not set correct using the main blade angle setting.

6) Cannot seamlessly slide rip fence between table and extension. Happen to need to cut right at the point where they meet so the fence doest clamp well.

 

[Paul_HKI]

Easty, you realise this is a construction site saw, right?

While I understand that some of these things may frustrate the heck out of people paying thousands of dollars/euro/pounds for a saw with Festool written on it, it was simply not designed or built to provide a capability for precision that would rival or substitute for a cabinet saw.

The saw has 'issues', but only for folks who want to use it beyond the original design intent, so they're not really issues in the real world, except for those who turn their unrealistic expectations into a manufacturing/design/quality issue...  Which it isn't.  Not really.

I have a TKS80 EBS-Set here.  It's perfectly accurate enough for general purpose work.  If I want precision table saw performance for off the saw joinery, I would use a cabinet saw or an alternative system. 

Bottom line, it's a good saw, for what it was designed and built to do.  The fence works fine and you know what, if you can't figure out how to move the fence over another 9, 12, 15, 18, 20, 24mm to overcome a 'need' to position the fence on the joint between the saw and extension table using a piece of ply/mdf/melamine chipboard...or flipping the L fence position to give that offset in about 10 seconds...  Well, I'm not really sure what anyone or any manufacturer can do to help you

I'm not trying to be rude, but if you know what you've bought, what it's designed to do and how you're trying to work around that...  Do that.  Solve the problems you've created for yourself in trying to use something in a way it wasn't intended to be used, and be creative and ask for ideas and help.  Just complaining that XYZ is pointless.

I really wish people would be realistic when they look at tools like this.  It's has a multi-part top made of aluminium extrusions, same for the frame, the surface can never be as flat as a ground cast iron tablesaw (so stop expecting it to be!), then it has a trunion and motor assembly suspended from that combination of parts which forms the top...  Anyone who actually thinks that's going to delivery precision capability is just not thinking critically at all..

 

[sgia]

I very much like the saw, and for my needs it's more than enough. It's only the fence I was asking about. My old Bosch GTS10 had much smoother rip fence performance (also a site saw) which is atypical when compared to all the other well thought though features of the TKS80.  I don't have any of the other issues Easty describes.

 

[FestitaMakool]

If these issues are a case, to not only a very few saws. I’d think Festool need to address it.

My CS 50 Precisio was (or are) not perfect either. Yes, it’s a contractor/site saw, but the claims are that they are precise, enough. That’s an assessment or interpreting that each one is the judge of. I believe that some of these issues that are reported shouldn’t have been there.
It’s made for fitters, flooring guys and fine carpentry making on-site cuttings. But even they demand a decent accuracy and workability out of their tools.

I had a Bosch GTS 10 XC before my CS50, the reason for exchange was the ability to move that monster by one man through doors and such. Hence the CS 50, along with promising features.
The Bosch costs under half the price of a TKS 80, but it’s near in quality, and from what I’ve heard has a better reputation. The TKS has some nice attributes; compatibility, Saw Stop and accessories. But saggy, humped tables, fences not right and blade insert troubles does not belong to a saw in this price bracket, regardless of Saw Stop tech inside.

I was tempted when I first saw the TKS, but now I’m not so sure anymore. For the money (even the money of my CS 50 SET) its closing into a decent cabinet saw territory, when your adding to the SET version. So those who’ll use it only stationery may be better off getting a cabinet saw instead.

 

[FestitaMakool]

When you move the fence the front moves first the rear lags behind and doesn't straighten until you lock it ? . I also have an issue with the side extension the fences jams between the main table and extension.

Rob

Yes, this exactly. I also have the extension table and this problem as well.

Key points:

- Align the two V groves meticulously testing transition between the main and widening table with the fence. Just as important to the rear side (with rear locking handle completely open (see link to another thread above regarding this also)
- Make sure to be just as meticulously with height and level adjustment for the widening table. Pin point with a straight edge.

This should make the fence slide nicely between the two tables.

Also: When adjusting/moving fence, don’t loosen the main knob much, forcing the V shape of the fence’s plastic slider to just being able to slide sideways - that way the sideways movements is limited. I place my hand one third in on the fence and move it that way. For tedious movement I use the micro adjust knob (Also important; leave the main locking knob only enough open so the shift sideways are limited)

On the far/rear side of the fence there’s a pad under the fence, aiding sliding movement for the rear. Make sure this has good contact with the table (I moved mine slight inwards)

 

[easty]

Easty, you realise this is a construction site saw, right?

T[/size].

Thanks so much for the reply I was sold on the saw based on this from the festool website

"Table saws are versatile tools that every builder or construction enthusiast needs to have. Festool table saws are able to perform a large variety of jobs with ease. Say hello to precise, smooth and accurate cuts that make Festool table saws an absolute must have for t furniture and cabinet makers."

 

[easty]

If these issues are a case, to not only a very few saws. I’d think Festool need to address it.

My CS 50 Precisio was (or are) not perfect either. Yes, it’s a contractor/site saw, but the claims are that they are precise, enough. That’s an assessment or interpreting that each one is the judge of. I believe that some of these issues that are reported shouldn’t have been there.
It’s made for fitters, flooring guys and fine carpentry making on-site cuttings. But even they demand a decent accuracy and workability out of their tools.

I had a Bosch GTS 10 XC before my CS50, the reason for exchange was the ability to move that monster by one man through doors and such. Hence the CS 50, along with promising features.
The Bosch costs under half the price of a TKS 80, but it’s near in quality, and from what I’ve heard has a better reputation. The TKS has some nice attributes; compatibility, Saw Stop and accessories. But saggy, humped tables, fences not right and blade insert troubles does not belong to a saw in this price bracket, regardless of Saw Stop tech inside.

I was tempted when I first saw the TKS, but now I’m not so sure anymore. For the money (even the money of my CS 50 SET) its closing into a decent cabinet saw territory, when your adding to the SET version. So those who’ll use it only stationery may be better off getting a cabinet saw instead.

The claim I have fallen for is that its precise and for cabinet /  furniture makers  as per my post above. Now I am hearing this is not the case. I dont think its too much to ask to have square fences to the table, with an insert that's level so work pieces dont catch. Im hardly trying to do anything that a table saw is not designed for.

R

 

[DeejayK]

When you move the fence the front moves first the rear lags behind and doesn't straighten until you lock it ? . I also have an issue with the side extension the fences jams between the main table and extension.

Rob

Yes, this exactly. I also have the extension table and this problem as well.

Key points:

- Align the two V groves meticulously testing transition between the main and widening table with the fence. Just as important to the rear side (with rear locking handle completely open (see link to another thread above regarding this also)
- Make sure to be just as meticulously with height and level adjustment for the widening table. Pin point with a straight edge.

This should make the fence slide nicely between the two tables.

Also: When adjusting/moving fence, don’t loosen the main knob much, forcing the V shape of the fence’s plastic slider to just being able to slide sideways - that way the sideways movements is limited. I place my hand one third in on the fence and move it that way. For tedious movement I use the micro adjust knob (Also important; leave the main locking knob only enough open so the shift sideways are limited)

On the far/rear side of the fence there’s a pad under the fence, aiding sliding movement for the rear. Make sure this has good contact with the table (I moved mine slight inwards)

Hi All,

If I can add my 2 penethworth... I have a CS70 and use the Kapex crown stop to ensure as perfect as possible alignment when attaching the side cantilevered extension which in turn ensures the smoothest possible sideways movement of the rip fence. Firstly I attach and loosely do up the 4 fixing points, then I clamp the crown stop across the v groove of the 2 parts firmly which brings them into line and then do up the 4 extension fixings securely. This is fine for me having 'zero'd' the table extension for co-planar initially.
I also find some machine wax (or Felder's magic spray) will aid the movement of the rip fence across the v'grooves and also across the top as well as making clean up easier!
Obviously the above points only help but for me, it meets my expectations 

 

[FestitaMakool]

DeejayK - thats some good tips, using the crown stops..

I wanted to balance things a little, and to be clear about my experience with my saw.
I’m extremely satisfied with the CS 50. So I know many, many others are too. This also count for the CS 70 owners from what Ive learned. There sure are many TKS 80 owners who are very pleased. YouTuber WoodSpezi have one replacing his CS 50, and he’s rather picky in what he do and as far as I’ve seen, he seems happy with it in his shop.

A bit off track: I noticed a vid the other day, with Finish Carpentry TV that he had gotten a combi machine to his home shop. Some of these machines are in a price bracket that isn’t too to far off considering many who have expensive tools in their shop, as Festool.. SawStop, Powermatic.
These machines are euro style, and fairly common (Many used old heavy beasts for sale too, too much TLC and missing todays security to my liking though)

The nice about these newer are that many of them has a proper slider (as the one Finish Carpentry TV had gotten), along with shaper (nice for those odd occasions, the cutters are expensive though, but easy to find pre-owned)
And they have planer, thicknesser and an option for mortising.
These do not take up much more place than a large cabinet saw.. If one count in a planer/thicknesser as well.