Ripping boards with ts55req

Foghat

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Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
53
Hi,
I've got to rip some 2x4x8' boards into several 1 1/2 strips. Is it best to do this with the guide rail and parallel extension guides, or just the guide rail on the boards? I know I can put several 2x4s next to each other to support the guide rail, but just wonder which accessory, or just the rails will do a better job, and also be safe.
Thanks,
Foghat
if there's another way to do it, please let me know.
 
If you have the parallel guides - use them.  Hopefully your 2 x 4's are flat.  Still be careful that you are pushing the saw parallel to the guide rail and not exerting sideways pressure on it.

Peter
 
I don't have the parallel guides, I rip with just the guide rail. Support the rail with additional 2bys.

Search this site for "Rip Cuts in the Field"

Tom
 
I think either would work fine. I don't have the parallel guides so I would just use the rail. I take it these are just construction grade lumber? The biggest problems will be having flat enough support pieces and twisty bendy cut pieces.  Put a rail on and give a it a try. As long as they don't need to be really square and really uniform you shouldn't have any trouble. But that will be up to the lumber  and how it reacts after cutting not the saw and rail.

Seth
 
Thanks, guys.
I chose wood that was as flat and straight as I could. I'll see what happens and let you know.
Have a great weekend,
Foghat
 
There is the Parallel Guide Set (No.P00108) to use with guide rails and the Parallel Edge Guide (No. 491469) that attaches to the saw with no rail required. I was using the edge guide to rip 2x8s down to 2x2s last weekend. It works great.
 
searcher said:
There is the Parallel Guide Set (No.P00108) to use with guide rails and the Parallel Edge Guide (No. 491469) that attaches to the saw with no rail required. I was using the edge guide to rip 2x8s down to 2x2s last weekend. It works great.

I have the parallel / edge / rip guide.  Used it a couple times. It works pretty well and will help follow the edge giving you a more uniform cut size even if the piece  takes on a curve.  Just be prepared for the plunge action at the star and especially the end of the cut. At the end the base plate will snap down once you clear the wood.

Seth
 
No table saw was 'harmed" in the process of ripping these cherry pieces, 1.25"x1.25". I like not having to clean up, or dealing with burnt cherry. Pretty sure everyone knows how I do this by now.

Tom
 
Hi Tom,
Uh...I don't know how you do it. I have the pguides and extension set. I need to rip some 2x4 down to 1.5x1.5s. Can I use them or should I just use the guide rail and several 2x4s under it to support it?
I'd also like to know how you cut the cherry if it's not on another thread.
thanks.
John
 
I use Toms method all the time now.

Geting ready to use it to rip some 2 1/4 door stock out of 4/4 red oak. works like a charm.

With hard woods I use the 28 toth comb blade. It gives me a real nice finish on the wood, no burning.
 
Foghat said:
Hi Tom,
Uh...I don't know how you do it. I have the pguides and extension set. I need to rip some 2x4 down to 1.5x1.5s. Can I use them or should I just use the guide rail and several 2x4s under it to support it?
I'd also like to know how you cut the cherry if it's not on another thread.
thanks.
John

Sorry I did not respond. I missed the question.

By now you most probably have check the other thread. As sancho pointed out the 28 tooth blade is a great blade for this type of work. It will have no problem with your 2x4’s.

I've posted 2 threads about ripping, I'll find the other and post it here.

Tom
 
Thanks,
I'll try that out tomorrow. It's been raining too much for me to get outside to work. Should be clear tomorrow, so I can try it.
cheers,
John
 
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