Ripping Moulding with TS55

[mculik5]

I'm installing new casing in my house. Several rooms have doors that are in corners, so the casing needs to be ripped to about 1.5".

I recently bought a TS55 REQ and MFT/3. I "sold them" to my wife and dad (my dad is the type of person who could use an antique table saw that had been rusting in a barn for 20 years and build beautiful, square case goods, so he always busts my chops about Festool) on the premise that these tools are a table saw alternative.

Unfortunately, ripping thin stock is probably the TS55's (or any other track saw's) biggest weakness, and one of a table saws biggest strengths in comparison.

So my question is...

Is there a way to cut 8' lengths of thinner-than-the-guide-rail moulding using the TS55? I've seen how-tos for cutting thin dimensional lumber, but the contours of the moulding pose a bigger challenge because the guide rail can't lay flat on the moulding. Does anyone have any tips or tricks?

FYI, I also have a Trion if you've got ideas for that, but at quick glance, it seems to pose the same problems as the TS55.

I'm sure I could make it work with a jig or something, but for all the hassle and expense of building a jig, does it just make more sense to get a basic contractor table saw?

Appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks!

 

[sancho57]

There really has been quite a few threads on this subj. If you use the search function you would find a lot more info.

Here is one of my favorite threads

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/how-i-rip-ff-and-door-pieces/

 

[Worm Drive]

Unfortunately, ripping thin stock is probably the TS55's (or any other track saw's) biggest weakness, and one of a table saws biggest strengths in comparison.

I'm sure I could make it work with a jig or something, but for all the hassle and expense of building a jig, does it just make more sense to get a basic contractor table saw

I'm sure that it won't be a popular opinion on here, but I would recommend getting a  table saw. As you stated, the table saw is more suited to and dare I say safer, for doing what you want to accomplish.

 

[sancho57]

It all depends. I made due w/o a table saw for a while. But there are cost considerations and space considerations. I recently picked up a table saw. Festool reconizes that table saws are necessary to. Thats why they make a CMS saw module and the CS 50/70.

But it is possible to do with out one

 

[gkaiseril]

The saw insert is not available in North America for any track saw or jig saw.

 

[fshanno]

When I have that situation I scribe before I cut just to see what I'm looking at.  It may be quite wavy or out of parallel or have texture issues.  It's going to take a bit of sanding to get it right.  In many cases it's faster to go ahead and make the first cut with a jigsaw and minimize the finish sanding.

Especially a good jigsaw like a Trion.  Just scribe it and cut it with the Trion.  To stabilize it you can clamp or tack the trim down to a stable surface allowing enough overhang for the cut.

But since you say it is 1.5" I have to interject something.  If it's inside a closet or in some service area or never seen then never mind.  But if it is in a routinely visible location and if it doesn't cause some other kind of problem I'd take this opportunity to shrink the opening a couple if inches. 

I mean it.  If it's a 32" door and code permits a 30" then that's what I'd do.  I dislike this so much that it's worth the price of a new door leaf, a 2x4 and some drywall and the labor.   

And then there's the idea of just moving the door over.  Course now you're talking about headers and flooring.  Not just a drywall patch and a new door leaf.  I'd still take a real hard look at it if it was my house.

 

[mculik5]

Thanks for all the info.

After giving it some thought, I've decided I'm going to try to go the Festool route. A table saw would certainly make this job easier, but I don't rip thin stock frequently enough to warrant spending $300 on one and having to store it.

My plan is to use a piece of scrap plywood as an 8' long cutting surface that I will clamp to the MFT. I will position one piece of casing under the guide rail for support and clamp both to the plywood. I will then position the casing I need to cut under the edge of the guide rail, tack it to the plywood with two nails, and make the cut.

fshanno, I completely agree with you - I hate the way this looks. Unfortunately, changing this isn't a viable option. The doors (which are only 30" as is) are already installed, and moving walls would be a huge hassle.

I'll play around with scribing tonight. To be honest, I'm not too confident in my ability to follow the line smoothly with the Trion, so figured a nice clean cut with the TS55 would be the way to go, but will mess around with it and see.

Again, thanks. Will post pics of my cutting setup and final results when done.