RO125 Proper finishing procedure

[Sam Murdoch]

Sorry if this is an old horse of a subject but I have read through page 11 here & can't find a thread dealing with this basic question.
I am about to commence sanding a solid walnut top that will be finished with WaterLox. I intend to use my RO125 - it
is my only Festool sanding option.

Any advice? Progression of grits? Stick with Rubin throughout or change over to Brilliant as I get to the final grits? Which setting do you prefer for
the choice of action. I ask this because I seem to get a better result with the dual action mode rather than just the orbit mode & that
seem counterintuitive, so I wonder what others do? Speed, I think 5 or 6 - agree? Any other words of wisdom?

Thanks so much for helping. Sam

Festool has changed the way I work. Better, easier, building in ways that would not otherwise be possible.

 

[junk731]

For large surfaces, to help maintain flatness use a hard pad.

John

 

[Sparktrician]

I'd suggest using Brilliant from 120 grit up to 400 grit (or as far as you want to go).  Good luck.  

[smile]  

 

[mouppe]

Here is what I would do, and I have done several projects with walnut tops.

First, in geared mode and 100 or 120 grit Rubin, sand the top smooth. Move up to 150 or 180 grit Rubin and repeat. Then switch to random orbit mode still using 180 grit Rubin. Finally go to 220 grit Brilliant in random orbit and sand. No need to go higher than this...yet.

Give the top a wash with a light cut of dewaxed shellac. This will help seal the wood, as the Waterlox is a penetrating finish. Without the shellac, you could end up with a blotchy finish as some areas of the walnut absorb more finish than others. One coat of shellac will not seal the wood completely, but it will even the penetration.

Now apply the Waterlox with a brush or pad, whatever you like. Leave to dry, and repeat. Do not sand between the first two coats. After the second coat, I would even the finish out with some 0000 steel wool or 320 brilliant (hand-held, not rotex.) Then another coat of waterlox. Repeat light steel wool and then another coat of waterlox.

At this point you can decide to go satin or glossy. If you want satin, use the steel wool. For glossy, try a coat of wax and buff it up using the rotex in geared mode.

You could get a million different opinions on finishes, but this is how I would do it in your case if I was using a waterlox finish. (As it happens, unless the top was going to see alcohol during use, I would just continue with a shellac finish.)

I would also use a hard pad on my rotex particularly if the edges of the top are vulnerable. The hard pad is not the one supplied with the 125, but it is an excellent accessory.

Good luck
Richard.

 

[Sam Murdoch]

Thanks Guys, I'm already starting with a deficiency as I don't own the hard pad. Guess I'd better put one on the list.
Otherwise I'll follow your advice. As for the finish, this c-top will be a reception desk for an Inn. It will
get all manner of unpredictable abuse. That's why I've chosen WaterLox. Don't know of a harder hand applied clear finish.
I will use a presealer to even out the finish, then 4 or 5 coats of the WaterLox as needed.

Thanks for your advice. Sam

 

[junk731]

You might want to look into Rubio Monocoat, it's an interesting product that's green friendly and easy to hand apply. At first glance it looks expensive but a little goes a long way.

John