I don't do enough drywall to justify a planex, but was looking for a quicker sand for a bigger job. Usually I use 220 Brilliant with my rts400 on smaller jobs like patches or bathrooms, but was wondering if anyone had used an ro150 for drywall. It appears to have the same stroke as the ETS 5mm that Festool recommends. Is tool weight the only issue here? I'm sold on Festool's dust collection, and don't really want to go back to a pole sander, but I don't want to stock another line of abrasives for a different size sander as well. Is this a good place for an interface or soft pad? I hook up to a powerful Nikro vacuum, but could pull a weaker Shop-vac out of the shop. I do drywall enough that I'm planning on keeping it in orbital mode! Thanks!
ro150 for drywall
- Thread starter w802h
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2013
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- 3,575
I just got my RO150, but I can't imagine using it overhead or on walls for any amount of time. It's a beast!!!
I mean that in a good way, of course, but you'd need serious arm muscles to use it for long periods. But I'm sure people have done it. Perhaps some will even comment here...
I mean that in a good way, of course, but you'd need serious arm muscles to use it for long periods. But I'm sure people have done it. Perhaps some will even comment here...
Larso
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- Apr 19, 2014
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- 128
I dont do a lot of plastering but if it is a small amount eg a few metres of joins and similar of cornice i will do it myself rather than hiring other trades.
Because i dont do a lot i also cant justify the planex (but it is still on my wish list) so i use my ETS 150/5 but the secret to flat joins is to use the hard backing pad.
The softer pads follow the hills and valeys so you get a smooth surface not a flat one.The less proficient you are at taping the joins the more important the hard backing pad becomes.
Larger diameter manual pads are good where your join requires levelling over a larger distances,the 150 to begin then old school to finish works.
I find 120 grit fine enough for a normal paint grade finish but higher level finishes with direct rather than glancing light would require finishing to a finer grit.
If you are painting yourself the more you do the easier your job is however the first job my painters do on each job is fill and sand etc so as long as the joins are flat the painters are happy
You can hire pole sanders at resonable rates if it is a one off,not usually Festool although they mostly work good enough.
Because i dont do a lot i also cant justify the planex (but it is still on my wish list) so i use my ETS 150/5 but the secret to flat joins is to use the hard backing pad.
The softer pads follow the hills and valeys so you get a smooth surface not a flat one.The less proficient you are at taping the joins the more important the hard backing pad becomes.
Larger diameter manual pads are good where your join requires levelling over a larger distances,the 150 to begin then old school to finish works.
I find 120 grit fine enough for a normal paint grade finish but higher level finishes with direct rather than glancing light would require finishing to a finer grit.
If you are painting yourself the more you do the easier your job is however the first job my painters do on each job is fill and sand etc so as long as the joins are flat the painters are happy
You can hire pole sanders at resonable rates if it is a one off,not usually Festool although they mostly work good enough.
Using a RO150 to sand drywall ceilings is not the most pleasant task. Your arms and shoulders will protest - but it can be done. I had to do it before the Planex came out, and 1/4 way into the job purchased an ETS 150/3. The /5 would have been a better choice and would have been a bit quicker but I wanted to have have the /3 for woodwork later. My body thanked me later.
Peter
Peter
- Joined
- May 3, 2013
- Messages
- 148
I use my Rotex for a lot of ceilings as I didn't think I would need a planex, I was wrong. The Rotex is is fine for ceilings but you will need big forearms( or if you don't have them you will). As long as the plaster is fairly smooth, so you only need to lightly sand you will be fine, if the plaster is a dogs breakfast and needs a lot of sanding,think about using something lighter.
Sparktrician
Member
Years ago I needed a good sander for some drywall repairs. I tested RO 150 vs. RO 125 by holding each over my head for a few minutes. Guess which one went home with me... No regrets, either. While I truly do like the RO 150, it was not the right choice for me in that situation.
Thanks,
I'm trying to get as much use from the sanders that I already own, but the cautions are well heard, which is why I launched the thread. As a generalist who likes doing lots of different projects, allocating funds for tools is a bit of a tug of war to first better my product, second increase efficiency/lower product cost, and third get a return on my investment. Luckily, I've got some time to make a decision and I appreciate the feedback.
I'm trying to get as much use from the sanders that I already own, but the cautions are well heard, which is why I launched the thread. As a generalist who likes doing lots of different projects, allocating funds for tools is a bit of a tug of war to first better my product, second increase efficiency/lower product cost, and third get a return on my investment. Luckily, I've got some time to make a decision and I appreciate the feedback.
Grasshopper
Member
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2014
- Messages
- 595
Great timing finding this thread. I have a drywall repair to do and I will look no further than the RO150 I already own.
I used my RO150 this weekend for some new drywall I put up. I used 150 rubin paper, RO on LOW speed (really helps with the dust collection) Make sure you use the edge protector near the corners....trust me... Works good, just a little dust, but way less than hand sanding.
over head was tough with 11' ceilings off ladder but I managed.
over head was tough with 11' ceilings off ladder but I managed.
