RO150Plus

[Dan Lee]

A while back I picked up a lot of new never used older model Festools. This weekend I tried the RO150 Plus sander. The Rotex mode is extremely rough and difficult to control bounces all over the place and is pretty much unusable. The other setting is smooth and works well. I have it connected to to a CT33 and have tried different suction settings and various speeds on the sander it self.

Any tips ideas? I'm assuming this is not normal.
Dan

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I have the smaller, less powerful RO 125, and it, too, will jump around at times when in Rotex mode.  (Remember Newton's law of physics: For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction?)  Use both hands with a firm grip to counteract the torque produced by the rotating pad in contact with the workpiece.  Also, you did not say what task you were trying to do.  If you are sanding away an old finish, e.g. varnish, or shellac, the heat generated by the abrasive action will tend to cause the abrasive pad to rapidly load up in localized spots, and these will grab on the workpiece far more than the other areas of the sanding pad, causing the sander to really jump around.  I encountered this phenomenon when sanding off the old finish from several interior passage doors.  My solution was to run the sander at rather low speed, and to scrape off the pad with a stiff 1 1/2" putty knife very frequently to pop off these agglomerations of old finish.  I use my RO 125 in Rotex mode frequently to polish and wax my vehicles, and never have any problems controlling the machine duriing these operations, but there is some jumping around at times when sanding bare wood.  Usually when that occurs, a change in speed setting and handhold position will minimize this issue.

I hope the above is of help to you.  Don't give up on your RO 150 yet!!

Dave R.

 

[jaegerhund]

I've found that with the R0 125 that sometimes it's best to let it do the work and just kind of guide it -- it's a delicate dance  .

Justin

 

[Dan Lee]

I was using it to sand out bandsaw marks on some mahogany with 120 grit. Is the Rotex mode for mostly for rough heavy duty work stripping and such?

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Dan,

Sanding out bandsaw marks is a task I use Rotex mode for.  And 120 grit should not be a problem.  I often start with 100 or even 80 grit because the blade on my saw leaves a rather rough cut.  I recently used my Rotex 125 on several pieces of resawn oak.

Dave R. 

 

[tvogel400]

Dan

I would start w/ 60-80 grit at least, 120 is what I finish paint grade with. In our shop 120 is a finish paper, you are grinding off material. What are you doing are you facing lumber or are you smoothing veneer? Mahogany is soft so heavier grits will remove material fast and you have to be careful cause you can grind a dish easily.

Anyway, what are you doing-sounds to me like your making furniture- try a combination of jack plane then smoother plane you can't beat the surface when you 
have finished- much better than sanded.

T-bone 

 

[tbellemare]

I have to agree with those who say to start with a rough grit - less than 80. There is also something about the set up, with the hose and cord hanging off, that can cause the sander to misbehave. I find that if I hold the sander by the hose, near the connection, it glides because I can easily get the balance to neutral. It's pretty easy to control from that configuration even in the gear driven mode.

Of course, the above is assuming it's on a horizontal work piece. If I'm on a vertical work piece, like sanding a wall, I also think it works best if one hand is on the end by the hose and the other is on the horn.

The more I use this sander, the more I realize that it is God's gift to sanding. I have a video of my honey using it and the LS 130 to take down a coffee table top from total crap to a shine. I can't show it though because she is too conservative and was in her flimsy PJ's in our living room at the time...

I hope that helps...

Tom