RO90 for Exterior Siding Stain Removal

[RickC]

Hello all, I'm wondering if anyone has experience using the RO90 to strip dark stain from T&G cedar siding? I restained my home two years ago with a dark mahogany semi solid stain. I'm unhappy with it and want to return the house to a much lighter shade. If anyone has any input or tips it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Rick

 

[semenza]

Hi,

    Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

        Sounds like yo have a big job.  With out knowing the exact nature of the siding I would say the 90 is probably too small to get the job done efficiently. But depends on board width, etc. My first reaction is the RO150 for the size and power.

  How about a picture?

Seth

 

[ear3]

Do you have small/hard to get areas that would require the RO90 over something bigger like the RO150, or looking to take advantage of the delta pad of the RO90?

There's a great video someone posted on the FOG maybe a year ago, which I can no longer find, of someone using the RO90 like an LS130, where they cut up some extra pads to create profiles that could reach into the odd recesses of exterior siding, and used the machine in delta mode (so no pad spinning).  If anyone remembers the link maybe they could post it, as this might help you understand the full capabilities of the RO90 vs. the larger machines. 

 

[RickC]

1x6 Tongue & Groove. I agree it's definitely a big job but much cheaper than replacing the siding and much safer than chemically stripping it. I'm hesitant to go with a bigger sander due to the fact the siding is around 35 years old and does have some cupping. I also really liked the versatility of the RO90 and hoped it would work well into the "V" groove sections. Although not the best, attached is a picture showing the front of the house.

 

[leakyroof]

1x6 Tongue & Groove. I agree it's definitely a big job but much cheaper than replacing the siding and much safer than chemically stripping it. I'm hesitant to go with a bigger sander due to the fact the siding is around 35 years old and does have some cupping. I also really liked the versatility of the RO90 and hoped it would work well into the "V" groove sections. Although not the best, attached is a picture showing the front of the house.

. Well, buy the RO90 and try it. Within a day you'll know if you need the EC 125 sander to speed up production with its larger pad size while keeping the small Rotex for tight spots.

 

[RickC]

What grit abrasive does everyone recommend? There is only one coat of dark stain.

 

[Scott in Bend Oregon]

For the 6" wide flat face of the siding, my first choice is a RO125 in Rotex mode with Saphir discs (start at 50g or 36g, if the 50g doesn't cut it).  Not knowing the condition of your semi solid stain coating, you may consider starting with Granat 60g first.

The RO150 is too wide and doesn't handle the cupping well, as you noted.  The RO90 is way too small for the flat work.  With the size of your job and if you decide on the RO90, your abrasive supplier will be sending you a Christmas card from Hawaii this year.

I have an ETS EC 125 and it could be a lighter weight, more manageable, alternative to the RO125.  But I'm not sure it is up to the task of such a large scale job.

I would use a LS130 for the grooves along with a hand V-scraper of some kind.  Again, delta paper and pad costs on the RO90 is a concern.

 

[AlexThePalex]

RO90 is much too small for this big a job. I would use my RO150.

 

[Bob Wolfe]

There are few good sanding options on a project this large, 90 too small, 150 a beast for this job and will destroy a lot of paper and your arms. I would suggest that the first thing you do is pressure wash the siding, let it dry a week then assess what needs to be removed. For the long flat surface, an in-line sander will likely work better than a rotary or orbital. Get a good dust mask, like a 3M, so you don't have the extra hose weight.

Start at the top so when your arms are killing you and you drop your nice new sander---- it won't have so far to fall.  ha ha

 

[Pnw painter]

Without a close up pic, you might be able to apply a new coat of stain over the current stain. This would save a huge amount of prep work if you can get the color right.

Depending on the condition of the stain a Wood Stripper such as Woodrich HD-80 would be  much faster and easier than sanding. Woodrich sells a sample kit with 2 different strippers and their wood brightener. I'd purchase this and try it in an inconspicuous area before I thought about sanding.https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014...&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hd-80+wood+stripper&dpPl=1&dpID=415eBwoWG9L&ref=plSrch

If you end up sanding, I'd use an RO150 like others have said. I might start with 36 grit and then make a second pass with 60 grit. I've used this process to refinish 2 decks and it was very effective.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[leakyroof]

Without a close up pic, you might be able to apply a new coat of stain over the current stain. This would save a huge amount of prep work if you can get the color right.

Depending on the condition of the stain a Wood Stripper such as Woodrich HD-80 would be  much faster and easier than sanding. Woodrich sells a sample kit with 2 different strippers and their wood brightener. I'd purchase this and try it in an inconspicuous area before I thought about sanding.https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014...&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hd-80+wood+stripper&dpPl=1&dpID=415eBwoWG9L&ref=plSrch

If you end up sanding, I'd use an RO150 like others have said. I might start with 36 grit and then make a second pass with 60 grit. I've used this process to refinish 2 decks and it was very effective.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting stuff- thanks for the info..

 

[RickC]

I've gone back and forth on the idea of using a chemical stripper, but I would rather avoid them if possible. I'm guesstimating that if I could handle one section of the house at a time per weekend, I could complete the house by the end of the summer. I've attached some closer pictures. I only applied one coat of the dark stain. I'm more disappointed in the blotchy appearance than I am in the overall color. Although, once I completed the staining I instantly wasn't a fan of the dark brown roof with the dark siding. I'll admit it was my staining skills or lack there of that lead to the blotchy condition. I've attached a close up shot.

 

[Motown]

It sounds like you'll have to decide on which sander you may want to use to remove the existing stain given the size of the job. One question/possible suggestion: would using a pre-conditioner be an appropriate on and exterior surface?

I had some very good success with General Finishes pre-conditioner on Fir for interior staining. Similar to Pine, Fir is really prone to blotching and, like you, I removed my original application and had good success with that product. I am assuming that if your stain/top coat are for exterior application than it should work. Maybe some of the more experienced guys can chime it. 

 

[RickC]

Without a close up pic, you might be able to apply a new coat of stain over the current stain. This would save a huge amount of prep work if you can get the color right.

Depending on the condition of the stain a Wood Stripper such as Woodrich HD-80 would be  much faster and easier than sanding. Woodrich sells a sample kit with 2 different strippers and their wood brightener. I'd purchase this and try it in an inconspicuous area before I thought about sanding.https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014...&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hd-80+wood+stripper&dpPl=1&dpID=415eBwoWG9L&ref=plSrch

If you end up sanding, I'd use an RO150 like others have said. I might start with 36 grit and then make a second pass with 60 grit. I've used this process to refinish 2 decks and it was very effective.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've actually looked into the Woodrich HD-80. I have a covered deck around the back half of the house. I'm worried that I wouldn't be able to adequately protect the metal roof on this section. I also have two young girls and I'm leery to potentially expose them to any chemicals.

Do you have any experience with the HD-80? Did it work as well as described?