Rotex Sanding Technique

Hubiquitous

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Sep 15, 2013
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I am refinishing my maple hardwood floors. I rented a square orbital sander to handle most of the work and am now using my Rotex 90 to take care of the edges.

I used 20>36>80>120 on the floor with the big sander and am happy with the results.  But, now, I am having some trouble getting a nice smooth finish with the Festool. I have found at least three different Youtube videos that all recommend different techniques so I thought I would take to the forums.

Phil, at New Brit Workshop, goes 40>80>120 with one pass of rotex and one pass of random orbit with each grit.

Whereas Larry Smith, recommends almost the opposite.  Lots of grits (40>60>80>100>120) but only passing with rotex.

Finally, Dave Reinhold, uses rotex for the low grits and random orbit for the high.

So, any general tips would be welcome.  Also, if anyone has specifically done hardwood floor edging with their rotex, share your thoughts.

Thanks all,
David

 
Hubiquitous said:
I am refinishing my maple hardwood floors. I rented a square orbital sander to handle most of the work and am now using my Rotex 90 to take care of the edges.

I used 20>36>80>120 on the floor with the big sander and am happy with the results.  But, now, I am having some trouble getting a nice smooth finish with the Festool. I have found at least three different Youtube videos that all recommend different techniques so I thought I would take to the forums.

Phil, at New Brit Workshop, goes 40>80>120 with one pass of rotex and one pass of random orbit with each grit.

Whereas Larry Smith, recommends almost the opposite.  Lots of grits (40>60>80>100>120) but only passing with rotex.

Finally, Dave Reinhold, uses rotex for the low grits and random orbit for the high.

So, any general tips would be welcome.  Also, if anyone has specifically done hardwood floor edging with their rotex, share your thoughts.

Thanks all,
David


Phil at the New Brit Workshop will be along imminently [member=11196]Peter Parfitt[/member]  [big grin]
 
Hi guys, Phil here...

I learnt my technique from Phil (there had to be a Phil here) and I mention the honourable Mr Beckley in my video.

Peter
 
Sorry for the name confusion Peter aka Phil.

I will try the technique from your video tonight. I already have those grits.
 
The 90 is a bit small for the application but I'd be rotex all the way in matching grits. In rotex you have to be moving at a good clip.

What ever happened to Reinhold anyways?
 
Scott Burt said:
The 90 is a bit small for the application but I'd be rotex all the way in matching grits. In rotex you have to be moving at a good clip.

What ever happened to Reinhold anyways?

Scott, what do you mean by matching grits? What grits would you use to go from 40 to 120?
 
Hubiquitous said:
Scott Burt said:
The 90 is a bit small for the application but I'd be rotex all the way in matching grits. In rotex you have to be moving at a good clip.

What ever happened to Reinhold anyways?

Scott, what do you mean by matching grits? What grits would you use to go from 40 to 120?

I'm fairly sure when I asked a similar question about grits it was considered strange that I'd try to jump as high as is being suggested.

I believe I was informed to go from 40 to 60 to 80 to 120 to 180 and on to 240 and above. Which is what I do now.
 
Hubiquitous said:
Scott Burt said:
The 90 is a bit small for the application but I'd be rotex all the way in matching grits. In rotex you have to be moving at a good clip.

What ever happened to Reinhold anyways?

Scott, what do you mean by matching grits? What grits would you use to go from 40 to 120?

By matching grits, I mean that if I was using any Rotex as an edger to an upright floor sander, I would edge in the same grits steps as I sanded with the upright.
 
I use a RO150, but would have started with 36 and use the coarse mode, and then once you broken through the finish then switch to fine.
I edge first then do the main. For instance, I edge with 36, then do the main with 36, edge with 60 then main with the 60. I found that it feathers a little better. After the last main I with feather in with the Rotex where needed (around vents, staircase and so on)

I use Peters method for low grits and Dave's method above 100 for normal finishing. For your application you are matching another machine and the Rotex will remove more material than that one.
 
TheTrooper said:
I use a RO150, but would have started with 36 and use the coarse mode, and then once you broken through the finish then switch to fine.
I edge first then do the main. For instance, I edge with 36, then do the main with 36, edge with 60 then main with the 60. I found that it feathers a little better. After the last main I with feather in with the Rotex where needed (around vents, staircase and so on)

I wish I'd talked to you BEFORE I started. What machine do you use for sanding the main areas?

Anyways, thanks everyone for your tips. I ended up using 40-80-120 with a rotex pass then a random orbit pass. These were the grits I had and it worked out pretty well.

Now, just to wait for Festool to make a floor sanding machine before I ever tackle another floor.

I use Peters method for low grits and Dave's method above 100 for normal finishing. For your application you are matching another machine and the Rotex will remove more material than that one.
 
I normally start with the lowest grit I can get a hold of in Brilliant 2 or Granat, in Rolex mode until I'm through the finish layer.  Then I switch to  Rubin 2 in the higher grits and run in Rotex, then finish mode until I match up with the field. Use what ever machine you have,thought bigger is better speed wise. But use the edge protector, it will save your pads. And speaking of pads I prefer using the hard pads when edging floors or stair treads.  The  90 with the corner pad is good for the inside corner, but a 400 works well also. 
 
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