Router bit edge banding

[jlcichocki]

I am finishing a vanity build and preparing to start a complete kitchen cabinet build.

My question is regarding the use of a router bit to edge band the cabinet shelves.  It appears that there are two styles of router bits.  The first is a "V" groove type of mating.  The second is more of a tongue and groove type mating.

As an example:  Amana bit number 55466. V groove.

                        Amana bit number 55468.  Tongue and groove style.

Is this a good way to edge band?  I've never tried it.

Is one bit style better?

I am not strongly aligned to a particular manufacturer, so if anyone has opinions I'm happy to listen. 

Many thanks for the help!!

Jeff

 

[Oldwood]

Hi,

Before we got a edgebander we would just mill thin pieces 1/8 to 1/4" that is over width of the ply. I apply glue to the ply edge and clamp the banding on using culls to distribute the forces. I sometimes use headless pins to keep the banding aligned with the ply. Once the glue is set I trim the overhanging banding with a router jig. You can get a lipping planer for this but if you are not doing enough of this type of work the cost is hard to justify.

This process goes quite quickly once you get setup and I have never had an edge de-laminate.

HTH
Gerry

 

[Billedis]

If you are going to use veneer stick on edge banding, check out Ron Paulks youtube video on the fastcap product.  I used it and it works great and no router bit needed.

 

[jlcichocki]

If you are going to use veneer stick on edge banding, check out Ron Paulks youtube video on the fastcap product.  I used it and it works great and no router bit needed.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll give it a look.

 

[roblg3]

If you're looking for maximum glue line, a small finger jointing bit, would be overkill, but max glue line.

 

[ear3]

I've always wondered why one would opt for those types of joints on hardwood caps when a 1/4" strip works just as well -- provided you're able to get a clean cut on both the plywood edge and the cap.  The few times I've used the V-groove set I have, I found it left a line of "fur" in some spots along the plywood veneer, which, if you're not careful when you remove it, can leave an ugly gap between the cap and the plywood. 

 

[rljatl]

Peter Parfitt uses the tongue and groove type.  Look for his youtube video Mobile Bench Project - How to make simple drawers - Part 1
[member=11196]Peter Parfitt[/member]

 

[jlcichocki]

Peter Parfitt uses the tongue and groove type.  Look for his youtube video Mobile Bench Project - How to make simple drawers - Part 1
[member=11196]Peter Parfitt[/member]

I looked for a video like that for a week.  A million thanks for helping me.  Watching Peter makes me want to move to the UK or at least spend more money on tools Thanks Peter!!

 

[lunchman]

For the cabinets I've been making for my wife's master closet, I've used the iron-on melamine banding on my 3/4" plywood shelves. These shelves haven't been all that wide and since they're for shoes or handbags, I'm not concerned with sagging. However, the current cabinet I'm working on will have a single 46" x 24" shelf and although it will be used for sweaters, baskets, whatever, I'm a tad worried about eventual sagging. There are 3 shelf pins on each cabinet side for support but nothing along the back of the cabinet and no vertical supports since the shelf is adjustable.

I bought a set of Katana T&G edge banding bits from MLCS Woodworking, was hoping to put them to use today but 15 deg F temps in the garage (my workshop) put a damper on any woodworking today. I'll let you know how they fare, hope to get this task complete within the next few days if it warms up a bit. They look pretty much like the ones Peter uses in his video.

-Dom

 

[ear3]

46" is kind of stretching it, though you may be ok given the 24" depth and as long as you keep the load light.  Would edge joining three pine or poplar boards ruin the aesthetic?

For the cabinets I've been making for my wife's master closet, I've used the iron-on melamine banding on my 3/4" plywood shelves. These shelves haven't been all that wide and since they're for shoes or handbags, I'm not concerned with sagging. However, the current cabinet I'm working on will have a single 46" x 24" shelf and although it will be used for sweaters, baskets, whatever, I'm a tad worried about eventual sagging. There are 3 shelf pins on each cabinet side for support but nothing along the back of the cabinet and no vertical supports since the shelf is adjustable.

I bought a set of Katana T&G edge banding bits from MLCS Woodworking, was hoping to put them to use today but 15 deg F temps in the garage (my workshop) put a damper on any woodworking today. I'll let you know how they fare, hope to get this task complete within the next few days if it warms up a bit. They look pretty much like the ones Peter uses in his video.

-Dom

 

[lunchman]

Edge joining a few solid wood boards for shelving is a possibility since the shelves are painted white. I'd use Dominoes to do so. I used the deflection calculator and I don't recall what the numbers were, but given the light load on this shelf I figured if it needed any strengthening the t&g banding might help. Gives me a new tool to play with anyway.

For the OP - the MLCS site does have videos of the router bits in use. I should be able to use mine this weekend and will take pics of the results.