Router sled with 80-20

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Apr 25, 2014
Messages
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I thought why not....? After some strong Google-Fu found the following inspiration:http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/8020-aluminum-79713/#post793169

Using 2x 48” long 80-20 profiles (1515-ULS) as base attached with bolt to MFT/3.

Ordered 1530-ULS profiles. The inner opening will be 93”x36”.

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Turning the wheels for the router sled so they run in the slot of the 80-20 profile (Happy that I have the Sherline lathe (and mill.....).

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All done:

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Looks great so far. Curious how smoothly and accurately it will run when complete. Keep us posted!
 
talk-tools said:
Looks great so far. Curious how smoothly and accurately it will run when complete. Keep us posted!

It is going to be bit trial and error.... Still trying to figure out how and where to attach wheels.....

After I assemble the frame things will get clearer.....

Wheels run on bearings so I am hopeful this will be smooth sailing.....
 
Getting my 80-20 profiles tomorrow.

In the interim was noodling around with the wheel connection and I think have found a way. Pictures forthcoming...

Might also consider swapping the wheels out for linear bearings in the future....

After I have both frames assembled i can figure out the tolerances and router attachment etc.....
 
Wheel hardware:

Those bronze bushings will be pressed in on the wheel side of the profile to give additional support for the bolt/wheel. I drilled a “hole” in the area with 3/8 drill bit, the OD of the bushing is 0.38”.

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Slartibartfass said:
Those bronze bushings will be pressed in on the wheel side of the profile to give additional support for the bolt/wheel. I drilled a hole” in the area with 3/8 drill bit, the OD of the bushing is 0.38”.

FWIW...a .375" diameter drill will usually drill a larger hole than .375". So take a scrap of the profile you intend to use and drill the 3/8" hole in it. Check how it fits with the sintered bronze bushings. You may luck out. [smile]

The typical method to install sintered bronze (Oilite) bushings is to drill an undersized hole and then ream it to the proper fit, usually around .0005" smaller than the bushing OD. Also don't hammer in the bushings as they can distort, rather press the bushings in using a stepped mandrel.  [2cents]
 
Got my 80/20 delivered yesterday and started to put everything together:

Main frame assembly

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Corner brackets

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Other parts

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Router Sled Moving frame (pre-fit):

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Router Sled Moving Frame assembly:

Drilling the holes for wheel bolts

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Slightly enlargement for bronze bushing

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Template to locate position for drill

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Hardware for wheel installation

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Runs nice and smooth, no loose fit. Tracks parallel.

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Flipped sled over to lower sled.

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Will change corner brackets to 2 hole per side to gain more movement for router sled.

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jpmeunier said:
Why don't you want to use their linear rails?

Right now cost, but am considering it.... also this way it is easier to take apart and I can flip over the router sled for a different height (see last pictures in prior post)
 
Router sled assembly itself. Wheels attach to top hole on hanging bracket. Needed to enlarge hole for bronze bushing.

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Later I switched the large washer to the outside. Washer was necessary as the bronze bushing was slightly to long to bolt down properly.

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Had to file off some metal for proper fit of adjoining brackets so the brackets are square to base and wheels run true.

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Temporary base to check fit

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I bought a piece of 1/4 thick aluminum as the router base.

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Figuring out dimensions for plate

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Cutting plate to size

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Cleaning burrs

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Drilling holes for M6 screws to hold router and countersink holes

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Router attached

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Used hole saw to cut opening to match router base...drilled proper pilot hole first.

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Installing brackets to base with the same 5/16-18 bolts. Drill and tap holes.

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FINISHED!

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Still trying to figure out how to make the router plate smaller to gain more travel. Need to calculate workable area.
 
[member=32690]Slartibartfass[/member] consider installing the plate on top of the angle brackets in the same way you have them mounted now.. That would allow you to push them inward towards the center because the brackets would not be in the way of the router base. giving you some additional travel side to side.

Another option would be to use pieces of thicker plate for your carriage side pieces instead of the angles. Drill and tap the plate edge and bolt the bottom to the sides.

Ron
 
rvieceli said:
[member=32690]Slartibartfass[/member] consider installing the plate on top of the angle brackets in the same way you have them mounted now.. That would allow you to push them inward towards the center because the brackets would not be in the way of the router base. giving you some additional travel side to side.

Another option would be to use pieces of thicker plate for your carriage side pieces instead of the angles. Drill and tap the plate edge and bolt the bottom to the sides.

Ron

I like your second idea.....
 
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