router table vs shaper

[HowardH]

I have a complete Jointech setup for a router table.  The fence, lift, the whole shootin' match.  I'm still considering selling my Hammer K3 Winner to get a Hammer B3 Winner so I can have a shaper and save a little shop space.  I don't have whole lot invested in router bits so that's not a big consideration.  I like the idea that a shaper will give me smoother finished cuts and can remove a lot more material without having to make multiple passes, unlike the router table.  I was in Rockler the other day and almost laughed at the response when I asked them what they thought.  The store manager said he would never get a shaper because he was scared of them.  He thought you should duck under the table when you start one up because the shaper cutters could come flying off!  [scared] [scared] [scared] Come on!  Man up!!  Are ya a man or a mouse? ...peep peep peep.  I already have some Hammer tooling that will work on their 30 mm spindle.  For you router table guys who have made the transition to a shaper, do you regret it or not?  What say you fellow Festoolians?

 

[stvrowe]

From your posting, I will assume you intend on getting rid of your router table if you get the B3.  I have a router table with the Jointech setup as well as a stand alone shaper.  While I prefer using the shaper and do so whenever I can, it does not completely replace the router table.  There are router bits I use that are not available as shaper cutters.  If a router bit spindle is available for the B3 and you can get sufficient speed for the smaller router bits, I can see the shaper replacing the router table.  I previously owned a Felder CF machine with a router spindle and the VFD option and could get a router bit speed of about 17,000 rpm as I recall which was sufficient for all but the smallest cutters.  My current shaper can only get up to 10,000 rpm so I have not bothered getting a router spindle for it.  That said, shaper cutters do offer a far superior finish than a router but they are very costly relative to router bits.  For one offs and short production runs, shaper cutters are not very cost effective.

I must admit that the first time I used a shaper with a large diameter cutterhead spinning at 7000 rpm it did give me considerable pause considering the importance of life and limb.  If you use it properly, it is no more dangerous than other shop machinery.  If you don't know how to use it safely, watch out!  Having been in the Rockler you visited back in June, based on their responses to questions I had about the Kapex, their credibility on tool or machinery advice is suspect at best. 

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

My router table consists of what ever piece of plywood I can find and I screw the router to it and screw a fence on.

Now as far as shapers go, I have worked my way up from a Delta HD to a Powermatic Super 27, to an Invicta now. 

The invicta has a sliding table, huge spindle, 7.5hp, 4 speeds 3k, 6k, 8k, 10k, a nice fence and it weighs a ton (literally).

I like shapers, use it a lot, couldn't stand being limited with the delta or PM.

 

[Knight Woodworks]

Really depends on what you want to do. Raising panels, cope and stick, pattern routing and making moldings are easier to do on a shaper. Small edge treatments and the like are easy to do on a router table.

Router bits are cheaper than shaper cutters. Generally, router tables are quicker to set up than shapers and take up less room. If you get a shaper, get a power feed to go with it.

I like having both.

John

 

[Birdhunter]

A friend has a shop that makes custom shutter windows. He uses shapers with replaceable cutters. He has his workers place a containment hood over every newly installed shaper cutter and let it run for at least 30 minutes. Sometimes, not often, one of the cutters will shed a piece. Without containment, the piece can be deadly.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

A friend has a shop that makes custom shutter windows. He uses shapers with replaceable cutters. He has his workers place a containment hood over every newly installed shaper cutter and let it run for at least 30 minutes. Sometimes, not often, one of the cutters will shed a piece. Without containment, the piece can be deadly.

Wow, sounds like someone either needs better tooling or more teaching about setting up knives an insert tooling. 

What you describe is no way an industry standard.