I found some wonderful slow grown, dense kiln dried boards in our local Home Depot. I suspect that they were higher grade lumber, but had some blemishes, so I decided to buy them.
First I made few passes through drum sunder to bring them into uniformed thickness. Thickness planer was not an option because there are so many knots.
Then I’ve made few passes in joiner just for make perfect gluing edges.
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For alignment and strength I cut several 8x50 mortises. Then boards were glued together. I usually make first mortise with narrow width for registering. All other mortises were made with medium width set. Do not forget dry fit. I missed one mortise, so make up before gluing process was not a big deal.
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For feet I glued together 2 x 4 boards. I found a couple nice kiln dried, slow grown boards in the pile.
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Initial sanding was made with Rotex RO-150FEQ in Rotary mode (Rubin P-24 – P-100) then RS-2E (Rubin P100- P180)
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Process is almost dust free.
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Cutting table top to dimension with TS-55.
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Forming edges. OF-1400 with Freud’s 4 flutes router bit. Rods and rail guide was used as counterweight for better control and stability.
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After several passes through jointer and thickness planer I started to form feet. With Festool’s Trion’s blades cut is perpendicular and very clean. It required just light sanding with 150 grit belt.
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Wide table top boards have some checks, so I decided to add butterfly inlays for better integrity and adding some aesthetic features.
OF-1010 makes this task perfectly. It had best visibility and dust control. OF-1400 with dust chute attached doesn’t provide good visibility; OF-2200 is a little bit too heavy for inlay work.
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Cutting butterfly inlays flush.
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Cutting vertical mortises for stretchers. I used OF-2200 with 8mm end mill. OF-2200 has the biggest plunge range. Plus it has excellent chip removal system. For better stability I used small bore base. In this case plunge cut can be made close to the stretcher’s end. Fine adjuster on the edge guide helps center the router very fast.
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For cutting notches on stretchers I used PS-300 with parallel guide.
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Forming square holes for stretchers in the legs. MFS-400, OF-2200, 24mm copy ring and 8mm end mill. Pure metric setup helps make math extremely fast. 4mm round corners were squared with chisel and file.
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Cutting legs to dimension.
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Holes for attaching top to legs. Centrotec brad point bits and Zobo cutters. For wood movement holes are oversized.
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Attaching legs to feet made with 10x50 dominoes. Three mortises were narrow, the fourth was made medium for easier precise adjustment.
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For brass threaded inserts I used brad point router bit.
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For finishing I used 2 coats of boiled linsed oil then 3 coats varnish/linsed oil mix, then 2 coats of diluted varnish.
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Wedges made out of cherry
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VictorL
First I made few passes through drum sunder to bring them into uniformed thickness. Thickness planer was not an option because there are so many knots.
Then I’ve made few passes in joiner just for make perfect gluing edges.
[attachthumb=15]
For alignment and strength I cut several 8x50 mortises. Then boards were glued together. I usually make first mortise with narrow width for registering. All other mortises were made with medium width set. Do not forget dry fit. I missed one mortise, so make up before gluing process was not a big deal.
[attachthumb=16]
[attachthumb=17]
[attachthumb=18]
For feet I glued together 2 x 4 boards. I found a couple nice kiln dried, slow grown boards in the pile.
[attachthumb=19]
[attachthumb=20]
Initial sanding was made with Rotex RO-150FEQ in Rotary mode (Rubin P-24 – P-100) then RS-2E (Rubin P100- P180)
[attachthumb=21]
Process is almost dust free.
[attachthumb=22]
Cutting table top to dimension with TS-55.
[attachthumb=23]
Forming edges. OF-1400 with Freud’s 4 flutes router bit. Rods and rail guide was used as counterweight for better control and stability.
[attachthumb=24]
After several passes through jointer and thickness planer I started to form feet. With Festool’s Trion’s blades cut is perpendicular and very clean. It required just light sanding with 150 grit belt.
[attachthumb=25]
[attachthumb=26]
[attachthumb=27]
Wide table top boards have some checks, so I decided to add butterfly inlays for better integrity and adding some aesthetic features.
OF-1010 makes this task perfectly. It had best visibility and dust control. OF-1400 with dust chute attached doesn’t provide good visibility; OF-2200 is a little bit too heavy for inlay work.
[attachthumb=28]
Cutting butterfly inlays flush.
[attachthumb=29]
Cutting vertical mortises for stretchers. I used OF-2200 with 8mm end mill. OF-2200 has the biggest plunge range. Plus it has excellent chip removal system. For better stability I used small bore base. In this case plunge cut can be made close to the stretcher’s end. Fine adjuster on the edge guide helps center the router very fast.
[attachthumb=1]
For cutting notches on stretchers I used PS-300 with parallel guide.
[attachthumb=2]
Forming square holes for stretchers in the legs. MFS-400, OF-2200, 24mm copy ring and 8mm end mill. Pure metric setup helps make math extremely fast. 4mm round corners were squared with chisel and file.
[attachthumb=3]
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Cutting legs to dimension.
[attachthumb=5]
Holes for attaching top to legs. Centrotec brad point bits and Zobo cutters. For wood movement holes are oversized.
[attachthumb=6]
Attaching legs to feet made with 10x50 dominoes. Three mortises were narrow, the fourth was made medium for easier precise adjustment.
[attachthumb=7]
[attachthumb=8]
For brass threaded inserts I used brad point router bit.
[attachthumb=9]
For finishing I used 2 coats of boiled linsed oil then 3 coats varnish/linsed oil mix, then 2 coats of diluted varnish.
[attachthumb=10]
[attachthumb=11]
Wedges made out of cherry
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VictorL
