Sanding Grits

[Sherif]

Hi,

Am new to Festool, recently bought the Rotex 150, and considering the RO 90 for smaller jobs.

Based on my phone call with FT, I was advised to go with Granat for multi projects.

However, I am confused regarding the sanding grits. I am mainly a hobbyist woodworker (weekend projects...etc).

My main question is, do I really need to get all the grits of the Granat or even the type (40,60, 80...) vs. ( 40, 80, 120, 320...) in order to have a decent workshop sanding accessories arsenal.

Many thanks,
Sherif

 

[jamste]

Welcome to Festool! I recently added an RO 90 to my Festool collection and also looking into re-stocking my sandpaper including paper for the new 90mm pad.

The rule with the grits is you never want to skip more than two sizes when working your way from a course sandpaper to a finer sandpaper. For example you would use 180 then 240 grit. You would not want to use 180 then go straight to 320 grit or 120 to 180. The biggest problem is you will come across swirl marks if you start skipping grits as the last grit you use can not take out the scratches from the first grit you used.

When I order sand paper I order 120, 150, 180, 240, 320. I think these are the most common grits everyone has and you will be able to do a lot with it. I will also get some higher grits but this will be used for lacquer finishing. I find because the Festool sanders are so good you can get a way with 180 grit for nearly everything you do. This surface quality is good enough for preparing the surface for finishing. You just want to make sure there are no visual swirl marks on the surface.

I too have just asked the forum regarding what sandpaper to get and everyone speaks highly of Granat.

Hopefully this answers some of your question!

James

 

[Sherif]

Thanks a million, James.

 

[tbellemare]

I think that with hook & loop paper, it's so easy to change that you get smooth faster by not skipping grits. With other systems, changing paper can be a time consuming bother.

Each successive grit is smaller and making smaller scratches that are less noticeable than the scratches of the bigger grit it replaced in the sequence. If the jump in grit size is too great, it takes a long time to remove the bigger scratches.

Everyone has to decide for themselves how big a jump in grit size is optimal. I, personally, think that in general, it works faster with hook & loop making smaller incremental grit size changes.

Tom