Sanding Mouldings - Can 80 x 130 (mm) soft backing pads be bought?

[Prizen]

Hey All

I have an 80x130 sheet sander. Is it possible to buy a soft foam backing pad to enable sanding of mouldings and other profiles?

I cannot find any but am sure they exist!  [blink]

Cheers

 

[mino]

Check Festool 490160.

It is the interface pad for the LS130 linear sander but works also with RTS 400 and RTSC 400. The holes position is the same.

 

[Prizen]

Thanks Mino, I had in mind something thicker in order to conform to curved surfaces better, but that just might do the job!

 

[guybo]

Hi, if in the u.s,surfprep has what your looking for they are excellent for moldings the 1/2 in.foam

 

[Packard]

Klingsport sells foam pads with the sandpaper already part of the foam.  They claim it molds better to the contours without the velcro interface.
https://www.woodworkingshop.com/pro...MI1aqgjvGQ9gIVom1vBB12zQAPEAQYBCABEgLNf_D_BwE

 

[Prizen]

Thanks guys, I am in Europe

 

[mino]

Thanks Mino, I had in mind something thicker in order to conform to curved surfaces better, but that just might do the job!

The only better (Festool) option is to get the LS130 linear sander which is a specialist tool for moldings sanding etc.

It is end-of life as of 2022, but the sanders are still around in retail and parts support will be for the usual 10yrs from now. There are several pads available for it and there is even a "made your custom pad" kit available for sale.

You can also combine two of the interface pads one atop another. But keep in mind it will not sand much at that point. The RTS400 has a 2mm orbit, I believe, so at 12mm pad thickness it is already streatching it ...

A better option for "dual" interface pads may be the ETS EC 150/5 where the stroke is sufficient for the sander to still sand even with two 12mm interface pads atop each other.

 

[Packard]

Amazon.de shows foam round interfaces and so does amazon.com/uk.  No rectangular pads though.

 

[mino]

Amazon.de shows foam round interfaces and so does amazon.com/uk.  No rectangular pads though.

https://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/Typ/4014549118054.html

There is a listing on Amazon.de too but it has the wrong photo. Anyway, I like idealo better as linking does not support a specific shop.

 

[Coen]

Thanks Mino, I had in mind something thicker in order to conform to curved surfaces better, but that just might do the job!

You can stack them. They are also sold by two.

 

[Packard]

The problem is the velcro interface.  It is stiff.  Add the stiff sanding paper and you will only be able to make gentle curves. A complex moulding shape would be beyond the ability to conform.

 

[Peter_C]

The Festool LS130 has a kit to make your own profile. Here it is explained.=693

 

[woodbutcherbower]

My personal experience based on almost 40 years as a professional woodworker is that certain tasks (beautifully sanded mouldings) are only achieved to an acceptable level of quality by using old-school methods. A folded piece of Mirka Abranet or Festool Granat + effort and concentration. Forget anything powered.

 

[FestitaMakool]

My personal experience based on almost 40 years as a professional woodworker is that certain tasks (beautifully sanded mouldings) are only achieved to an acceptable level of quality by using old-school methods. A folded piece of Mirka Abranet or Festool Granat + effort and concentration. Forget anything powered.

So did my uncle, fine woodworker and carpenter, tell me too. There’s no denial that any motorised thingy that is prospected to help can’t be tested  [big grin].

Manual labor helped with wood pieces shaped to the various profiles as sanding blocks is probably the safest way to go.

I’ve done a few paint stripping furniture ventures. Using chemical paint stripper is my way to go.
Paint is usually hard to sand, and with profiles it’s easy to reach the high spots very soon, and this can easily destroy finer detail. Working with bare wood, even with torn and raised wood fibres after being wet by paint removal is much more pleasant and yields a much better result - from an amateurs perspective..

 

[Packard]

I actually enjoy doing detail sanding (as long as there is not too much of it).  It puts me in the frame of reference of being a craftsman.  It slows down time and I find it relaxing.  (As long as there is not too much of it.)

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Using chemical paint stripper is my way to go.
Paint is usually hard to sand, and with profiles it’s easy to reach the high spots very soon, and this can easily destroy finer detail. Working with bare wood, even with torn and raised wood fibres after being wet by paint removal is much more pleasant and yields a much better result

Modern waterbased benzyl alcohol strippers are absolutely useless. You put them on - they just sit there. And as you say - the water content raises the grain. I make my own old-school original-formula strippers from methylene chloride (aka dichloromethane), thickened into a gel using hydroxypropyl cellulose. Both compounds can be bought in 5-litre containers from a whole bunch of eBay sellers for pennies. One application will dissolve about 10 layers of oil-based paint, lacquer or varnish in under a minute. All solvent, no grain raising, and gets into all those tiny grooves. I've also used methylene chloride as a perfect chemical welding solvent for repairing cracks, splits and other damage on Systainers.

You need open windows, rubber gloves and a good mask, though. And a paramedic standing by just in case.

And an oncologist.

And if you don't follow appropriate safety procedures - an undertaker.