Sanding windows and doors, RO 90 or DTS/RTS 400 ?

threesixright

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Hi All,

Soon I will need to start sanding inside doors (~ 10, and the door frames) + 10 larger outside windows/door (both sides). All together lots of work (I think).

I already have a ROTEX 125, but since most of this is vertical, I'm not sure if that the right machine to use? Or just go with and sanding ( [scared])?

I'm in doubt to add a RO 90 or maybe the RTS/DTS 400 combo is better for this? Any other/better suggestions?

Secondly:

Not sure if the color matters, but this should go from (what you see on the picture) brown to graphite black (RAL 9011).

What would be the best way to approach this?

- clean
- sanding
- primer (which color?)
- light sanding
- 1st layer
- light sanding
- 2nd layer ?

Thank you all.

 

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DTS400 is the best one one for general sanding on window and door frames.

As for priming, in principle you can use any colour you want inside, but staying close the finish colour is best. Outdoors you always have to stay close to the colour of the top layer due to influence of the sun and heat (same expansion coefficient).

The frame in your picture is painted with a transparent lacquer, not solid paint.
 
Thanks!
Alex said:
The frame in your picture is painted with a transparent lacquer, not solid paint.

I know :( The problem is that we are getting also a dozen new doors & windows (from the same company that installed these at the time). But they will be factory finished in -as we feel now blackish-.

Since some of the installed doors and windows are pretty bad damaged by cats and dogs  >:(, I need to fill them. And I we will loose the grain anyway. We where thinking to just choose solid paint for that. So it all looks the same.

You think just the DTS would be enough?
 
As others have said the DTS will do it. Youll have to go through the grits. id start with maybe 40-60 grit ad work my way up
 
Yes - the DTS is the sander of choice for what you need to do. It is perfect for this application. Good luck!
 
I never go lower than 80 unless there's really ugly thick layers if paint on it. Which rarely happens. 80's my default grit to sand everything smooth and do all the putty work, and then I do final sanding with 180 and hand sanding with a fine sanding sponge before I put my first coat of primer on.

Only on doors I finish with 320 on the ETS 125 after 180 because I want my doors really smooth, you see every little impurity on doors.  On doors I always use the ETS 125 instead of the DTS 400 because the RO motion gives a finer result.
 
I usually go 80 120 180, Alex seems to imply he goes from 80 to 180? For work like doorframes with paint (not clear varnish) I've haven't seen a benefit to doing smaller steps than 80 120 180. That's just from my experience redoing my own home though.
 
With paint I go from 80 to 180 without problems, you don't leave any visible scratches.

Painting a house does not require the more meticulous appraoch you'd use on stained/varnished/lacquered furniture.
 
For large projects I have the primer tinted to about 70-80% of the final color. The top coat will cover the primer better and the color difference will allow you to see what you still need to paint.

I’d start that project with 120 grit and see how that goes. You can always flip back to 80 grit if it doesn’t sand easily.
 
The sanding part seems covered. My input is on the primer. I highly, highly, highly recommend C100 latex primer by C2. Coats beautifully, and sands out like a dream. It's the best primer I've ever used, and I've used pretty much all of them. C2 makes great paint.
 
glenn storey said:
The sanding part seems covered. My input is on the primer. I highly, highly, highly recommend C100 latex primer by C2. Coats beautifully, and sands out like a dream. It's the best primer I've ever used, and I've used pretty much all of them. C2 makes great paint.
I’m a absolute noob when it comes to paint [emoji4]

Thought latex is for walls no and is water based? Can you put paint (for wood) on top of that?

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threesixright said:
Thought latex is for walls no and is water based? Can you put paint (for wood) on top of that?

In America the name latex is used for a much wider range of paints than over here in Europe. Over there it also includes water based paints for wood while here it is only used for wall paints.

The name latex itself is completely outdated because hardly any paints these days contain latex, almost everything water based these days is based on an atrificially made compound called acrylate dispersion. Which is basically a plastic that's solvable in water.

Water based paints are very popular lately because they don't contain any strong solvents. You can paint indoors without sitting in paint stench for the next two weeks, and people like that. Quality-wise though, they don't come anywhere near oil based paints, which have better adhesion and durability and flow better so you can get a smoother looking end result.
 
I’m checking with the vendor of the windows, but pretty sure it has water based paint.

Which paper would be best? I was going through the options and I was think Rubin?

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Rubin is only good when you have bare wood to sand. Beyond that, Granat is always the paper of choice in the house.
 
Alex said:
Rubin is only good when you have bare wood to sand. Beyond that, Granat is always the paper of choice in the house.
Aha. Thanks!

Outside also Granat?

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Granat EVERYWHERE !!!!  [big grin]

Granat is the all-round goto paper suitable for almost every application. If you don't know for sure, get granat. Hard to go wrong.

Some exceptions:
Bare wood - Rubin. Though Granat will also do a good job.
Heavy, dirty layers of paint - Saphir.
Cars and other metal that needs a perfect finish - Platin.
 
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