Sanding Wrought Iron Railing

TSO Products said:
TSO Products said:
I hate to recommend something other than a FESTOOL based solution but I need to share my successful experience at the end of many not-so experiences:

3M ScotchBrite started offering a combination ceramic/aluminum oxide abrasive encapsulated in plastic.http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MIndustrial/Abrasives/Products/~/Scotch-Brite-Radial-Bristle-Brush?N=7581714+3293242167&rt=rud#variantView
I have used this type of abrasive in another version fitting  the threads on my Milwaukee 4 1/2 angle grinder.
It flexes and follows contours. It does not load (!) up at all. Leaves the metal smooth and bare shiny and ready for etching / priming and coating with your finish.
if desired I will go find my abrasive and submit a picture. Last time I used it to de-rust a just purchased used and badly abused, cast iron band saw table with rust, paint and glue residue.
Hans
just found the item:
'https://www.zoro.com/scotch-brite-bristle-disc-45-in-dia-34-in-trim-80g-24242/i/G1290161/?gclid=CjwKEAjwgo6_BRC32q6_5s2R-R8SJAB7hTG-4V_m0rfq1QbOU9o2M60M2LYu-ZlipbJ25qm1tY5WKRoCG4jw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
SCOTCH Brite Bristle Disc is using an abrasive offered in the disc version shown on the link, also in smaller diameters to fir the ROLOC style 2 inch discs on an air angle grinder and all kinds of other configurations.
If your time and the end result means anything, you'll go this route.
I bought my first one at SEVENTH CORNER HARDWARE in St Paul. Bob, you know Chuck Reese never recommended anything that didn't work (miss that place... and their experts)
Hans
  Not on Topic, but yeah, I miss Seven Corners as well... [crying]
 
For work of this kind please don't forget to wear proper eye protection and a mask.
 
The OP said, "There is light rust..."

Most of these suggestions seem excessive for that.
And the OP seems to be long gone and hasn't even shown a picture of the form the railing takes.
 
Michael Kellough said:
The OP said, "There is light rust..."

Most of these suggestions seem excessive for that.
And the OP seems to be long gone and hasn't even shown a picture of the form the railing takes.
. We, um, overwhelmed them with info and opinions....🙈🙈🙈😝😝
 
Untidy Shop said:
[member=434]Bob MN[/member] Good luck with this, better you than me!  [big grin]

Another product from 3M which could be used either alone or in conjunction with the 3M Bristles suggested by TSO is this paint and rust removal disc.

If the railings are wrought iron or have intricate decorative elements I would also buy a wire brush and some 80 and 120 grit emery paper sheets.[size=11pt] [If they were originally  galvanised steel rather than true Wrought Iron I would only pretreat where rust has occurred.]


[attachimg=1]

True redlead  paint as mentioned earlier is banned in Australia, probably because it CONTAINS LEAD!  [eek]

Suggest that if you are stripping it right back that you use a 3 step re-coating process, similar to this one distributed by WhiteKnight in Australia with Rust Converter - Undercoat - Topcoat (s).http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au.../rust-guard/?gclid=CKKViNbipM8CFQujvQodRloF_Q

Have a look at the video in this link. You might not  like the fact that he hand sands the wrought iron fence!  [smile]

________________________[size=8pt]

Disclaimer - I work part time in hardware sales including at times the paint department.


This is the product I would probably use, as it is designed to remove rust from metal.  My second choice would be a combination of wire wheel and brush, which we used extensively in the Navy.  However, the OP was asking how he could utilize his RO90, which translated to what sandpaper would be appropriate.  My answer would still be the most aggressive grit available (in order to replicate the effect of a wire wheel or brush).

To prevent the rust from returning (almost immediately), priming is critical.  Back in the 1970's, when I was in the Navy, we used Redlead, which of course has since been banned due to the lead content.    I would be interested in knowing what the U.S. Navy replaced it with, since we know metal ships still have a rust problem, particularly when combined with salt water.

Edit:  here is a link describing how the US Navy approaches the painting of it's ships now:
http://pilotonline.com/news/militar...cle_26c524e5-f472-51bf-8c5f-ee1249d34da2.html
 
McNally Family said:
Untidy Shop said:
[member=434]Bob MN[/member] Good luck with this, better you than me!  [big grin]

Another product from 3M which could be used either alone or in conjunction with the 3M Bristles suggested by TSO is this paint and rust removal disc.

If the railings are wrought iron or have intricate decorative elements I would also buy a wire brush and some 80 and 120 grit emery paper sheets.[size=11pt] [If they were originally  galvanised steel rather than true Wrought Iron I would only pretreat where rust has occurred.]


[attachimg=1]

True redlead  paint as mentioned earlier is banned in Australia, probably because it CONTAINS LEAD!  [eek]

Suggest that if you are stripping it right back that you use a 3 step re-coating process, similar to this one distributed by WhiteKnight in Australia with Rust Converter - Undercoat - Topcoat (s).http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au.../rust-guard/?gclid=CKKViNbipM8CFQujvQodRloF_Q

Have a look at the video in this link. You might not  like the fact that he hand sands the wrought iron fence!  [smile]

________________________[size=8pt]

Disclaimer - I work part time in hardware sales including at times the paint department.


This is the product I would probably use, as it is designed to remove rust from metal.  My second choice would be a combination of wire wheel and brush, which we used extensively in the Navy.  However, the OP was asking how he could utilize his RO90, which translated to what sandpaper would be appropriate.  My answer would still be the most aggressive grit available (in order to replicate the effect of a wire wheel or brush).

To prevent the rust from returning (almost immediately), priming is critical.  Back in the 1970's, when I was in the Navy, we used Redlead, which of course has since been banned due to the lead content.    I would be interested in knowing what the U.S. Navy replaced it with, since we know metal ships still have a rust problem, particularly when combined with salt water.

Edit:  here is a link describing how the US Navy approaches the painting of it's ships now:
http://pilotonline.com/news/militar...cle_26c524e5-f472-51bf-8c5f-ee1249d34da2.html
.  Great Article.  Love the older saying of basically ' if you're not saluting it then you're painting it .
And , 4 MILLION gallons of paint on an aircraft carrier ... [eek]  [eek]
 
Back
Top