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SawStop Pros & Cons
- Thread starter flair woodworks
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Jeff,
Thanks for the comment. I bought the Grizzly G0623X.
Thanks for the comment. I bought the Grizzly G0623X.
Jesse Cloud
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Good article! Refreshing to see an evenhanded discussion of the pros and cons of sawstop.
I sometimes take classes at a local community college which is all sawstop. I like the sawstop a lot and it has saved a few fingers over the years. But, like you, I think if I were buying a saw just for my own use, I would probably look elsewhere.
I sometimes take classes at a local community college which is all sawstop. I like the sawstop a lot and it has saved a few fingers over the years. But, like you, I think if I were buying a saw just for my own use, I would probably look elsewhere.
With proper outfeed and support tables, plus a good cross-cut sled (like the "ultimate" one by John McCormack in FWW), 8 foot crosscuts are easily done on most good table saws (altho mine is a SawStop which I've been very happy with). And all that top space is great for other purposes.
Kevin Stricker
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I'm surprised you went with the Grizzly considering the amazing deal on the K3 winner series Hammer has been having.
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Kevin Stricker said:
I actually bought my slider almost a year again. I'm not really familiar with the K3 Winner series (I looked at the Felder 700 series). I like that the Grizzly has an outrigger, scoring blade, and dado blade capability, all in the stock model.
This may be a thread hijack, and if so I apologise.
Over the last 2 years I have had 2 work friend hobbyist have unfortunate workshop accidents.
One of them let his hand drop down onto an unprotected spinning table saw blade and lost a few fingers ... which a SawStop would have prevented.
Another managed to recently run his thumb through an unprotected inverted router bit.
And no-one's thought of a "RouterStop" yet.
Seems as if using the proper protective guards and proper technique is the first step to safety.
Also seems as if you're safer if the sharp, spinning parts are pointing down rather than up
Over the last 2 years I have had 2 work friend hobbyist have unfortunate workshop accidents.
One of them let his hand drop down onto an unprotected spinning table saw blade and lost a few fingers ... which a SawStop would have prevented.
Another managed to recently run his thumb through an unprotected inverted router bit.
And no-one's thought of a "RouterStop" yet.
Seems as if using the proper protective guards and proper technique is the first step to safety.
Also seems as if you're safer if the sharp, spinning parts are pointing down rather than up
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Mavrik said:This may be a thread hijack, and if so I apologise.
Over the last 2 years I have had 2 work friend hobbyist have unfortunate workshop accidents.
One of them let his hand drop down onto an unprotected spinning table saw blade and lost a few fingers ... which a SawStop would have prevented.
Another managed to recently run his thumb through an unprotected inverted router bit.
And no-one's thought of a "RouterStop" yet.
Seems as if using the proper protective guards and proper technique is the first step to safety.
Also seems as if you're safer if the sharp, spinning parts are pointing down rather than up
Mavrik,
Your comments are related so I don't mind them one bit. In researching for the article, a friend told me about his accident. He had a dado blade in his SawStop and was doing a stopped cut. The workpiece shot out and his hand hit the blade. He cut his finger pretty badly - deep but not long and fractured the bone at the end (meta-tarsal?). He did not lose any fingers and the healing process is coming to an end 4 months later.
Guards are a good safety feature and the SawStop makes them as user-friendly as any I know of.
Hi,
I am interested in the G0623X. However, I only have a 29.5" door to my basement workshop. I looked at the documentation and based on the footprint listed it will fit. However, it appears that several items may get in the way. First is the motor. Can you tilt it down so that it does not stick out of the back of the cabinet? Second is the screw that sticks out from the edge of the table top. Can you take this screw out from the table? Third is the handle opposite the motor. Does this come off? Finally, can you remove the outrigger?
Thanks for the help.
Regards,
Greg
I am interested in the G0623X. However, I only have a 29.5" door to my basement workshop. I looked at the documentation and based on the footprint listed it will fit. However, it appears that several items may get in the way. First is the motor. Can you tilt it down so that it does not stick out of the back of the cabinet? Second is the screw that sticks out from the edge of the table top. Can you take this screw out from the table? Third is the handle opposite the motor. Does this come off? Finally, can you remove the outrigger?
Thanks for the help.
Regards,
Greg
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Hi Greg, and welcome to the forum.
My short answer is: maybe. Got a shoehorn? It was not able to get a reliable reading but would measure the width of the saw to be pretty darn close to 29-1/2". It might just fit, or you might need to take off the door moldings to get it in.
When you tilt the blade to the right, the motor is completely inside the cabinet.
"the screw that sticks out from the edge of the table top." If you mean the blade tilt handwheel, the answer is yes, but there will still be a stub left sticking out. On the right side, with the motor cover removed and motor inside the cabinet, the biggest protrusion is a black plastic box at the bottom that houses electronic components. The plug comes out of here.
The outrigger is easily removable. The outrigger support is also removable, though not quite as easily. And the aluminum sliding table comes separate from the rest of the saw.
My short answer is: maybe. Got a shoehorn? It was not able to get a reliable reading but would measure the width of the saw to be pretty darn close to 29-1/2". It might just fit, or you might need to take off the door moldings to get it in.
When you tilt the blade to the right, the motor is completely inside the cabinet.
"the screw that sticks out from the edge of the table top." If you mean the blade tilt handwheel, the answer is yes, but there will still be a stub left sticking out. On the right side, with the motor cover removed and motor inside the cabinet, the biggest protrusion is a black plastic box at the bottom that houses electronic components. The plug comes out of here.
The outrigger is easily removable. The outrigger support is also removable, though not quite as easily. And the aluminum sliding table comes separate from the rest of the saw.
Chris,
Thank you very much for the help. The screw I am talking about appears in the following pictures that someone took while they were assembling their saw.
G0623X Assembly Photos
It seems this bolt sticks out quite a bit. Is the electrical box removable? Perhaps I could remove it a put it inside the cabinet while moving the saw? In terms of the 29.5 inches you measured I assume that is the width of the table since that seems to be a bit wider than the base, correct? Also, what is the length if I were to remove the sliding table support?
How do you like the saw? Any additional feedback now that you have been using it for a bit? I noticed that it seems to lack angle detents on the sliding table. Has this been an issues for you?
Thanks again for all your help.
Regards,
Greg
Thank you very much for the help. The screw I am talking about appears in the following pictures that someone took while they were assembling their saw.
G0623X Assembly Photos
It seems this bolt sticks out quite a bit. Is the electrical box removable? Perhaps I could remove it a put it inside the cabinet while moving the saw? In terms of the 29.5 inches you measured I assume that is the width of the table since that seems to be a bit wider than the base, correct? Also, what is the length if I were to remove the sliding table support?
How do you like the saw? Any additional feedback now that you have been using it for a bit? I noticed that it seems to lack angle detents on the sliding table. Has this been an issues for you?
Thanks again for all your help.
Regards,
Greg
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Hi Greg,
In this image, the bolts sticking out of the table are removable. The tapped holes in the table top are to hold the extension wing and I believe the bolts shown in the picture are actually there for packaging only to protect the motor - the case would hit the bolts before the motor. By the way, this is the right side of the saw. The table top is also removable, of course. However, the black electrical (at the bottom of the picture) box protrudes more than the table top. The cover of the black box is easily removable but I didn't figure out how the box is attached. I did not feel any screws inside the cabinet. I will check later tonight.
The 29.5" is from the black box on the right side to about the end of the blade tilt shaft. Overall, the saw is wider front-to-back due to the outrigger support bracket which is nonremovable. By the way, the floor-to-table height is 33-5/8", so even if you remove the table top and put the saw on its side, it won't fit.
I've been really happy with the saw. I've never needed to do any exact angles for hexagonal frames or whatever so I haven't missed the indexable crosscuts fence. I've made two modifications to the saw that I can think on - I cut the crosscut fence shorter so I can walk around it (I can still use the extension for really long crosscuts) and ground down the top of the riving knife by about 1/4" to allow me to use it as a low-profile knife. I'll tell you more later, but for now, you can check out these posts on my blog:
http://en.search.wordpress.com/?q=site%3Aflairwoodworks.wordpress.com+sliding+saw&t=
In this image, the bolts sticking out of the table are removable. The tapped holes in the table top are to hold the extension wing and I believe the bolts shown in the picture are actually there for packaging only to protect the motor - the case would hit the bolts before the motor. By the way, this is the right side of the saw. The table top is also removable, of course. However, the black electrical (at the bottom of the picture) box protrudes more than the table top. The cover of the black box is easily removable but I didn't figure out how the box is attached. I did not feel any screws inside the cabinet. I will check later tonight.
The 29.5" is from the black box on the right side to about the end of the blade tilt shaft. Overall, the saw is wider front-to-back due to the outrigger support bracket which is nonremovable. By the way, the floor-to-table height is 33-5/8", so even if you remove the table top and put the saw on its side, it won't fit.
I've been really happy with the saw. I've never needed to do any exact angles for hexagonal frames or whatever so I haven't missed the indexable crosscuts fence. I've made two modifications to the saw that I can think on - I cut the crosscut fence shorter so I can walk around it (I can still use the extension for really long crosscuts) and ground down the top of the riving knife by about 1/4" to allow me to use it as a low-profile knife. I'll tell you more later, but for now, you can check out these posts on my blog:
http://en.search.wordpress.com/?q=site%3Aflairwoodworks.wordpress.com+sliding+saw&t=
Chris,
Thanks a million (again)!
Let me know what you find out about the box. Are you taking into account the wheel and handle on the blade tilt shaft or are you assuming I remove them? If I can remove the power box what would the width be then (I assume at this point the widest part would be the table sticking out to the right, correct)?
Thanks!!
Greg
Thanks a million (again)!
Let me know what you find out about the box. Are you taking into account the wheel and handle on the blade tilt shaft or are you assuming I remove them? If I can remove the power box what would the width be then (I assume at this point the widest part would be the table sticking out to the right, correct)?
Thanks!!
Greg
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Hi Greg,
Sorry for the delay getting back to you.
If this doesn't make your day, I don't know what will! The cabinet body (not including base) is 25-1/8" wide. On the left, the blade bevel shaft protrudes 1-7/16". On the right, the black box protrudes 2-1/2". This totals 29-1/16". What's more, the black box can be removed, reducing the overall width to a scant 27-13/16".
If you have any more questions you'd like me to address, feel free to ask. I want to do a review on the saw for my blog in the near future.
Sorry for the delay getting back to you.
If this doesn't make your day, I don't know what will! The cabinet body (not including base) is 25-1/8" wide. On the left, the blade bevel shaft protrudes 1-7/16". On the right, the black box protrudes 2-1/2". This totals 29-1/16". What's more, the black box can be removed, reducing the overall width to a scant 27-13/16".
If you have any more questions you'd like me to address, feel free to ask. I want to do a review on the saw for my blog in the near future.
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Greg,
The table, which is removable, protrudes 1-7/8" from the right side of the cabinet.
The table, which is removable, protrudes 1-7/8" from the right side of the cabinet.
