Sawstop tips

[AndrewG]

Hey all,
This is one of my first posts on the FOG forums - thanks for the having me here  [thanks]

I'm about to put a deposit on a industrial sawstop cabinet saw. I'll take delivery of it towards the end of the year, so I have a little wait. Iv'e done a lot of research on this saw and i'm satisfied that it's built to a high standard and will give me accurate results.

However, from those who own a sawstop, can you give me some hints and tips on the saw. For example accessories that are a "must have", or tips for puting together and setting up the saw (I understand the manual is very detailed). I'm going to get the mobile base, dado brake and zero clearance insert as accessories. The overhead dust extraction seems to come standard now with these saws (well mine is anyway). I also have a wixey angle gauge and digital readout to set up for repeatable cuts to put on the saw.
Is there anything else that is a must have? Sawstop or after market that has made your saw even better? I'm going for the 36" rails because I really don't see myself cutting anything wider, and if I do I have my TS75.

I do have a question though, can you put a micro-jig splitter on the saw zero clearance insert that comes with the saw? Not for the riving knife option ofcourse, but for the featherboard effect that pushes the cut piece against the saw. Or should I just not bother?

Thanks for the help,
Andy

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Yeah, don't cut two sheets of 3/4" ply at one time because you can stop the blade on the 5hp model.

I know several people that oversee the production side of huge cabinet operations and not one of them had anything good to say about the SS.

 

[AndrewG]

Thanks for the reply.
I'm more of a hobbyist woodworker looking to get more serious about my woodworking. I know there are a lot of opinions on the SS, but from my research i'm happy that it suits my needs.

For what it's worth, i'm going for the 1 phase, 3HP model.

 

[Zacharytanner]

Hi Andrew,
I sold my PM66 and purchased the Sawstop 3hp and couldn't be happier. The Powermatic was great but I am a hobbyist and wanted the extra peace of mind with the safety features that the SS offers. I don't see a need for the micro spliter and Paul Marcel has a great video on making the overhead dust collector. I think you will be set with what you already planned on purchasing. The asembly manual was so EASY to follow and assembly was a breeze. You will enjoy. I do recommend the 52 rails if you have the room. The extra size on the table is handy.

Best,

Frank

 

[live4ever]

I don't know which ZCI you're referencing, but the one you should get just came available and is sold by Infinity Tools (it was originally known as the Colli-Beck plate).  This allows you to have replaceable inserts so you can have true zero-clearance for any blade or dado-width.  It is a nice hunk of aluminum and the inserts that fit into it are easy to make yourself.  It uses the handle and locking mechanism from the original SS insert that comes with your saw, so it functions exactly the same.  At $90 it's not cheap, but the Sawstop inserts are $40 each.

Oh, and if you really want to pimp out your saw, get the Incra TS-LS fence.  ;D

 

[Jesse Cloud]

The stop mechanism is sensitive to exact blade size (e.g., 12 inches).  It can be adjusted, but if you have several saws that are slightly different sizes, that is a PITA.

When we first got sawstop about 4 years ago, some of our Freud blades were enough undersized to prevent the saw from "booting up", we just stopped using those blades. 

So if you have a problem where the green light flashes on and off at startup, compare your blade size to a blade that is known to work.  Also, be sure the door is closed all the way  [embarassed].

 

[AndrewG]

The zero cleance insert I was referring to was the one that Sawstop sell. I had a look at the one Infinity tools sell and it does look like it will be easier to change inserts, something to consider in the future I suppose. Does anyone know if the inserts that comes with the saw requires you to make the initial cut (with the safety device off)?

The blade i'm using is the 10" Infinity super general, it seems to be a very good blade so hopefully it servces me well in my sawstop.

Thanks for the tips and keep them coming please  [big grin]

Regards,
Andy

 

[live4ever]

Andy,

The insert that comes with the saw is precut wider than a kerf width (for bevel angles).  As such, it's not true zero-clearance.  You will need to purchase a second insert if you want zero clearance for your standard blade, and of course additional inserts for dado widths.  That's why I recommend the Infinity plate up front.  I wish it was available when I got my saw.  Of course, zero clearance isn't a necessity - depends on what you're cutting and what kind of projects you're doing. 

 

[MarkF]

Remember to remove the riving knife before you cut the zero clearance slot in whatever insert you choose.  A friend forgot and when the knife bent forward, it made contact with the blade and went boom. 

 

[tiralie]

Yeah, don't cut two sheets of 3/4" ply at one time because you can stop the blade on the 5hp model.

That's not good performance for a 5 hp saw...or is it the detection technology that shuts the blade down?

I know several people that oversee the production side of huge cabinet operations and not one of them had anything good to say about the SS.

Makes sense. If you're a production shop I am not sure why you would consider a SS over a sliding table saw (minimum) etc for processing panels.
Tim

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Yeah, don't cut two sheets of 3/4" ply at one time because you can stop the blade on the 5hp model.

That's not good performance for a 5 hp saw...or is it the detection technology that shuts the blade down?

I know several people that oversee the production side of huge cabinet operations and not one of them had anything good to say about the SS.

Makes sense. If you're a production shop I am not sure why you would consider a SS over a sliding table saw (minimum) etc for processing panels.
Tim

Why do you think they have the SS?  Pesky insurance and WC forced many into them already. 

 

[AndrewG]

I have a few more questions that have come to mind;

1. What is the difference between the standard dust extraction blade guard and the industrial upgrade kit? Does the industrial model come standard with the upgrade kit, or do you get the standard one (I assume it comes with the PCS also?)

2. I might be able to get the overarm dust extraction kit thrown in for nothing, what are your impressions on the saw?

Thanks,
Andy

 

[tiralie]

Why do you think they have the SS?  Pesky insurance and WC forced many into them already. 

Ya, Ok but why can't a 5 hp. SS cut two 3/4" sheets of plywood?

 

[flair woodworks]

You'll love the manual and all the adjustments it walks you through.  I was very impressed by that.  Adjust the backlash in the threads?  It's in the manual.

The riving knives are great.  I see absolutely no need for a MicroJig splitter.  Do get (or make) yourself a good push block though.

I don't know what the mobile base on the Industrial saw is like, but a friend just got the Professional saw and the mobile base looked inadequate to both of us.  I do believe that the Industrial has a more sturdy leg system for the extension wing.  Make a wooden fence for your mitre gauge - they won't trigger the brake.

 

[KMoura]

This is a reply regarding the plywood comment:

Why can't a 5 hp Sawstop cut (2) two pieces of 3/4" plywood?  I have a 3 hp Professional Sawstop and I have no problem cutting through approx. 3" sq. Lignum Vitae, which is vary hard and dense certainly much harder than plywood, and the saw has never stopped.

Regarding the question posted by Andrew G., I replaced my miter gage with an Incra 1000HD and have had great success with it.

 

[tiralie]

This is a reply regarding the plywood comment:

Why can't a 5 hp Sawstop cut (2) two pieces of 3/4" plywood?  I have a 3 hp Professional Sawstop and I have no problem cutting through approx. 3" sq. Lignum Vitae, which is vary hard and dense certainly much harder than plywood, and the saw has never stopped.

Thanks!
Tim

 

[bruegf]

I have to agree, I have the SS 1.75 hp contractor saw, and while I haven't tried cutting through 2 layers of plywood at once, I don't have any problem cutting through 8/4 burmese teak.   I've also replaced the SS miter gauge w/ an Incra 1000HD and added the Wixey digital fence readout.   Both are really good additions to the saw.

Fred

 

[mbs]

I just looked at the ZCI from infinity and they're on sale.  I will get on for sure.  Much better design than SS.

 

[mbs]

I have the same saw you're getting but its a few years older and I have the 53".  I love the saw.  The overarm dust collection is great.  it was designed by aerospace engineers and it is very efficient.  However, it doesnt work well if your just trimming an edge because the dust kicks to the side of the blade guard.  And you still get roost when you dont use the guard (cross cut sled work).

The sawstop ZCI isnt that great.  There is a big opening in for the splitter and I can't adjust mine so the entire insert is flush with the table.  I am going to look into the other one mentioned in this thread.

I have the HTC outfeed roller system.  It works pretty well in the usable position but when the rollers are lowered they rest on my dust collection hose which sometimes disconnects the hose from the machine and I don't always notice it.  

I highly recommend you adjust the splitter so it is 1/4" away from the blade.  I cut a piece of plywood and as I was handling the remnant it touched the side of the blade guard which pulled the splitter slightly forward, touching the blade and discharging the safety system.

I love the Tenyru Gold Series thin kerf blade.  Cuts like butter for a long time.  

SS customer service is fantastic and their spare parts are extremely reasonable.  When you call them you actually talk to real people who know their product and speak english as a first language.

 

[TJ Cornish]

Yeah, don't cut two sheets of 3/4" ply at one time because you can stop the blade on the 5hp model.

I know several people that oversee the production side of huge cabinet operations and not one of them had anything good to say about the SS.

I also call BS on this.  I have the 5HP saw and have cut 2 pieces of laminated 1" oak, multiple pieces of MDF and plywood, nasty warped 2X4s that pinch the blade, and have never had a problem.  Either the people in question have a misadjusted saw - belts too loose or something like that, an incredibly dull blade, or they're expecting a 500'/minute feed rate.