Score 1 for the kapex

glass1

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Aug 5, 2008
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I recently was building a couple of locust gates. Mortise and tenon.  The kapex trenching is good enough for this work. Far and away the best trenching scms.
 

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I have to agree the Kapex is the best for trenching.  Personally I don't use trenching much but it is nice to have when needed.
 
I haven't trenched with my KAPEX, but I do remember the old Hitachi 8" SCMS being excellent .. apart from the clouds of sawdust ,, at trenching.

Anyway .. I don't want to know this as I need lots of good excuses for the HK85 and the grooving attachment [smile]

la la la la la la la la la
 
I haven't trenched with mine either but it's good to know it can do that nice of work
 
It takes fairly light pressure to achieve good results like that. If you bare down too hard you will get an uneven cut. Just something to be aware if.
 
BBuild said:
It takes fairly light pressure to achieve good results like that. If you bare down too hard you will get an uneven cut. Just something to be aware if.

Hahahaha I found that out using it the trench function for the first time last night making a door jamb. Good thing the casing will cover the first few cuts.
 
I agree with others.  While the Kapex can trench... it requires too light of a touch to produce good results.  The trench brake does not limit the plunge depth sufficiently.  It's easily off a few millimeters.

I had to half lap a few 2x4s and it technically worked with the Kapex, the joints were not clean.  I know I would have had perfect results with my table saw, but I just kept going with the Kapex to show a proof of concept.
 
Pizza Steve said:
I agree with others.  While the Kapex can trench... it requires too light of a touch to produce good results.  The trench brake does not limit the plunge depth sufficiently.  It's easily off a few millimeters.

I had to half lap a few 2x4s and it technically worked with the Kapex, the joints were not clean.  I know I would have had perfect results with my table saw, but I just kept going with the Kapex to show a proof of concept.

Once I had gotten the hang of it it worked quite well. I cleaned it up with a chissel and it was really nice. The big thing I found is having a lighter touch and also a really firm hold on your material if you are not clamping it. That actually had the biggest factor for me was my material moving around slight amounts while cutting.
 
I don't have a lot of experience with the kapex trench function as I have only just got the saw but I have played around with it a bit. You can get good results with a light and even touch it requires practice until you get a handle on the technique. There are limitations to how much force the rails can resist with the weight of the saw head/motor and your downward pressure being applied. The Festool blade doesn't cut a flat bottom due to the tooth geometry, this may add to the appearance of the trench cut having variations in depth. After cleaning up with a chisel it should look pretty good. There are likely better ways to trench especially if you are doing large volumes of it but it's a handy trick to have up your sleeve when you just have your miter saw.
 
Kev said:
Anyway .. I don't want to know this as I need lots of good excuses for the HK85 and the grooving attachment [smile]

la la la la la la la la la

[member=13058]Kev[/member] Surely you'd want the MF26cc if you plan to use it as a tool and not a toy.

The HK85 looks like a great tool, but the grooving attachment looks super fussy to use, and a waste of time if you plan on using it more than once a year.
 
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