Second Festool router question

[ekalb]

I stumbled upon Festool back in June and have since been loading up almost weekly it seems on more of their tools.

Today I finally assembled my CMS-GE Router Table Set that I bought about a month ago. I put my Imperial 1400 router in it. Once I went through the process of setting it into the table, I quickly decided that I would rather just leave it there and grab a second router. I am pretty much strictly doing cabinet work work these days mostly as a hobby. I am leaning towards another 1400, but I'm not sure the redundancy makes sense.

Any thoughts on whether or not I should put a 2200 in the table and use the 1400 for free hand work? I'm not sure I need the power of the 2200. Maybe leave the 1400 in place and pick up a 1010?

thanks for any advice here!

 

[copcarcollector]

Welcome to the fog!

Festool will tell you that using the 2200 in the table will void the warranty.
That said, it is certainly do-able, many in na have done so

 

[Svar]

Festool will tell you that using the 2200 in the table will void the warranty.
That said, it is certainly do-able, many in na have done so

However, keep in mind this is strictly legal, not technical issue. 2200 can be used in CMS everywhere else in the world, and was designed with this in mind.

 

[ekalb]

Gotcha!

Yeah, I think I watched a router review on the New Brit Workshop with the 2200 in the CMS table.

I think the 2200 would be overkill for the rail and stile work I am mostly doing. I have no experience with the 1010 or 2200. I like the size of the 1400, but I don't want to limit myself to another one of those if there are some major benefits to the other two that I am overlooking.

 

[bkharman]

Gotcha!

Yeah, I think I watched a router review on the New Brit Workshop with the 2200 in the CMS table.

I think the 2200 would be overkill for the rail and stile work I am mostly doing. I have no experience with the 1010 or 2200. I like the size of the 1400, but I don't want to limit myself to another one of those if there are some major benefits to the other two that I am overlooking.

I wouldn't call it overkill. I would call it "smooth as butter". The 2200 is a joy and a Beast in one chunk of plastic and metal. If you want to keep the warranty, a 1400 will easily handle the cabinet work you throw at it. You could even go the other route (see what I did there) and leave your 1400 in the table and get a 1010 for hand work.

Lots of options mate!

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Svar]

Personally, I would buy 1010, instead of second 1400. Of course if you want to stick strictly with Festool.

 

[Dan-]

I have the CMS along with a 1400 and a 1010. I would buy all 3. What I've found is that the 1010 is nice for some things, like using the LR32 and rounding over edges or any other place you are using a bearing and a 1/4 or 8mm shank, but the 1400's accessories are nicer and half-inch, so it's better for rabbets and dadoes with a nice whiteside spiral bit and the edge guide or anything with the rail. It gets bothersome moving the 1400 in and out of the table, though it is pretty easy. Also buy two CT36s, one with an ultimate dust deputy for the routers and one for everything else.

Whatever you do, make sure you replace Festool's crappy feather board thing with the Jessem guides. Makes a world of difference.

 

[antss]

Why would you get an ac36 and then mount a dust deputy to it?  [huh]

One, you don't really need the xtra capacity over a ct26, and two the auto filter cleaning is kinda not needed either since there very little dust that escapes the DD.  It would lodge in the fleece bag and won't make it to the filters - making the plastic bag and the auto clean un-necessary and a $125-$175 more expensive.

The auto clean is really more at home for a drywall sander or concrete grinder.

 

[Cheese]

I'd lean towards the 1010...you've already stated that the 2200 would be overkill for the products you produce. So the 1010/1400 would be a nice 1-2 punch.

 

[nickao]

I just finished using an OF2200 with a 1/8" shank bit. If you can only have one router get the OF2200.

For me the DeWalt 611 is my preferred router over the Festool OF1010 nearly every time.

When I need a physically smaller router because the OF2200 wont fit, I use the DeWalt 611.  When I need a router the size of an OF1400, well I use my OF2200. When I need a small bit and the router size isn't an issue, I use the OF2200.

I don't understand the appeal of the OF1010 and never did. It's flimsy feel and weird form plus lack of power relative to other routers of its physical size turned me off right away(and I turned it off).  I never liked the OF1010, I sold it and the OF1400 here on the FOG as soon as I started using my OF22oo.

The OF 1010 reminds of the ETS 125 sander, they are under-powered dogs in the Festool line.  I just don't get why they don't make the OF 1010 and OF 1400 like the OF2200. I would love to see clones of the OF2200, just physically sized down to a small OF1010 and OF1400 size. With a few added features to the entire line, like LED's and a better clamp mechanism for the guide rails, preferably a 4way contact clamp for the OF2200(its time of an OF2200 update), Festool would have the best routers in every class instead of just the largest class.

 

[Cheese]

So...you're a big block kind of guy...454...502...572...elephant motors. Nothing wrong with that, they shred tires nicely, and I can appreciate that.  [cool]

Well, it seems my fondness for the 1010, 1400 and ETS 125 puts me squarely in the mouse motor category. I almost want to not admit that I'm also a fan of the RO 90...another underachieving Festool product. Oh well, sometimes less is more...

 

[Holmz]

I stumbled upon Festool back in June and have since been loading up almost weekly it seems on more of their tools.

Today I finally assembled my CMS-GE Router Table Set that I bought about a month ago. I put my Imperial 1400 router in it. Once I went through the process of setting it into the table, I quickly decided that I would rather just leave it there and grab a second router. I am pretty much strictly doing cabinet work work these days mostly as a hobby. I am leaning towards another 1400, but I'm not sure the redundancy makes sense.
...

Or if it is in a router table then a Port Cable fits into one of the router lift jobs (Jessem?), and liberate the 1400 for handwork.

 

[Stone Message]

If you can afford it then it is an excellent idea to leave a router permanently in the CMS unit as it does speed up work flow but also makes the decision to use the router table easier.

I understand the situation in NA with the OF 2200. If I were in your shoes (but here) I would go for the OF2200 in the CMS unit as you might want to do panel raising or other big cutter stuff which will always be smoother with the big router.

If the OF2200 is not for you then go for the OF1010. It is my go-to router and has bags of guts for such a compact tool. I have done quite a few 20 mm channels (with 8 mm shank) and it manages with no problems at all. It is also ideal for the Leigh dovetail jig which I use quite often.

Peter

 

[Holmz]

http://www.leevalley.com/us/home/page.aspx?p=69192

 

[OutofSquare]

I would go with Peter's suggestion. If a 2200 is 'legally' out of the question go with the 1010. It is so EASY to use and fairly gutsy. If you do ever require larger handheld bits for a one off project you could remove the 1400 from the CMS. I love both the OF 1400 and the 1010 and have never (yet) needed to step up to the 2200. I'm not sure SWMBO would allow me the privilege anyway

 

[ear3]

Although they're out of stock in America now, I imagine you might still be able to find on the secondary market  the edging plate setup for the 1010, which converts it into a horizontal router (and failing that, from a Festool shipper in the UK, where the Pound/dollar conversion is very favorable right now).  It makes edge band trimming a piece of cake, and is especially effective if you like to put thicker hardwood caps on your ply.  This accessory option makes getting the 1010 over a second 1400 a no brainer. 

As for the 2200, yes it's powerful.  But as a few have already mentioned, it's power should not obscure how delicate a machine it can be (in a positive sense), since it allows for precision micro-adjustment of the depth without having to de- and re-plunge.  Also the only router for which you can get a base made specifically for the guide rail.  It's a financial commitment though to get the router plus the full accessory systainer.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

I really like the 1010 for hand-held routing tasks and it is a very versatile router. I think it would pair nicely with your 1400. I also really like the 2200 - probably the best router made, in my opinion, and it is a true engineering marvel. I just picked up a 1400 and have not had time to put it through its paces yet, but my initial impressions is that it is a going to be a great router too. I think I would opt for a 1010 in your situation, though so you do not overlap with the same tool and expand overall capabilities.

 

[flair woodworks]

Although they're out of stock in America now, I imagine you might still be able to find on the secondary market  the edging plate setup for the 1010, which converts it into a horizontal router (and failing that, from a Festool shipper in the UK, where the Pound/dollar conversion is very favorable right now).  It makes edge band trimming a piece of cake, and is especially effective if you like to put thicker hardwood caps on your ply.  This accessory option makes getting the 1010 over a second 1400 a no brainer. 

Stock is still available on the Angle Arm, Edging Plate, and Chip Deflector.http://www.ultimatetools.ca/products/router-edging-plate?variant=6447840516

 

[Thistleman]

As you are buying on a weekly basis I would recommend an OF2200 next week, the 1010 the week after and then the difficult decision - a second OF1400 for when it is quicker not to have to change cutters/settings or an MFK700 so you do not have to muck about with a 1010 and edging kit. Whichever way you go you should have completed your router collection by Thanksgiving and be able to move onto another section of your Festool collection,  go on you know it makes sense!!!!

 

[Coen]

Although they're out of stock in America now, I imagine you might still be able to find on the secondary market  the edging plate setup for the 1010, which converts it into a horizontal router (and failing that, from a Festool shipper in the UK, where the Pound/dollar conversion is very favorable right now).  It makes edge band trimming a piece of cake, and is especially effective if you like to put thicker hardwood caps on your ply.  This accessory option makes getting the 1010 over a second 1400 a no brainer. 

As for the 2200, yes it's powerful.  But as a few have already mentioned, it's power should not obscure how delicate a machine it can be (in a positive sense), since it allows for precision micro-adjustment of the depth without having to de- and re-plunge.  Also the only router for which you can get a base made specifically for the guide rail.  It's a financial commitment though to get the router plus the full accessory systainer.

But how sturdy is the 1010 + edge plate setup anyway? With the cost involved, isn't it just easier pay a little bit extra to get an OFK 500 with 490085 bit?

The baseplate of the 2200 for the rail; oh yeah. I can't count the number of cuts that went wrong because the foot on the 1010 or 1400 slipped, ran off the material or something similar. I still hope they will someday release a rail plate for the 1400 and 1010.