Second LR 32 rail rib is .57mm wider than my 1st rail

kwakefield

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Joined
Jun 6, 2022
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17
I bought an LR 32 Rail last year (or year before). This past summer I bought a second LR 32 rail so I could join them and do shelf holes in tall cabinets. I assumed they would both be the same and join up like all my other rails. But no, when I used both LR 32 rails together I ended up noticing how hard the transition was with the LR 32 router plate from one rail to the other. Eventually the friction of trying to slide the router plate from one rail to the next caused the join to come loose and it totally threw off my hole alignment. Not a happy camper when I discovered that.

Today I took out the callipers and sure enough the newest LR 32 rail is 0.57mm wider. My 800mm rail measures 16.21mm, my first LR 32 rail = 16.10mm, and the 2nd LR 32 rail = 16.67.

What are my options if I need to do tall cabinets again?
 
The important dimension in shelf pin holes is that they are a consistent 32mm apart. If some of them are a half mm closer or to the edge of the edge of the cabinet does it matter?
Michael, I'm thinking the difficult transition from one rail to the next, loosened one/both of the rails and thus changed the vertical spacing of the holes rather than the horizontal spacing.

At any rate, @kwakefield Festool just may rectify the situation because that's a pretty serious alignment issue and it's certainly not a condition that you could cause on your own. This is a manufacturing/QA problem entirely.
 
Michael, I'm thinking the difficult transition from one rail to the next, loosened one/both of the rails and thus changed the vertical spacing of the holes rather than the horizontal spacing.

At any rate, @kwakefield Festool just may rectify the situation because that's a pretty serious alignment issue and it's certainly not a condition that you could cause on your own. This is a manufacturing/QA problem entirely.
Yes, that’s exactly the scenario … the vertical spacing was affected and the front holes above 1400mm no longer line up with the back holes. I can route out shelf material where the pins will go to level the shelves, but that’s really a pain in the backside.

I’ll phone the store today to see if I can bring it back to them for replacement.
 
The important dimension in shelf pin holes is that they are a consistent 32mm apart. If some of them are a half mm closer or to the edge of the edge of the cabinet does it matter?
With single-pin shelf brackets, it may not matter a lot, but there are quite a few that do need two holes. At that point, having them .5mm off, would mean they wouldn't fit at all.

Yes, that’s exactly the scenario … the vertical spacing was affected and the front holes above 1400mm no longer line up with the back holes. I can route out shelf material where the pins will go to level the shelves, but that’s really a pain in the backside.

I’ll phone the store today to see if I can bring it back to them for replacement.
That is the best course of action, and the most versatile solution. However, if you need to do this often, there is a better way. Festool also makes an 8 foot long version of the LR32 (2424) They aren't exactly common, most dealers don't stock them. They can order one for you though. It took about 10 days to get mine.
 
The important dimension in shelf pin holes is that they are a consistent 32mm apart. If some of them are a half mm closer or to the edge of the edge of the cabinet does it matter?

It mattered when I goofed and the LR32 track was not adequately clamped to the material.

My line of holes had gradually drifted away from the edge of the panel. By 1mm at the end of the 2nd LR32 track.

When installing the IKEA drawer glides, I had to angle the screw to catch the drifted-away hole.

Upon installation is when I realized the consequences of my error.

The situation also emphasized my disgust for the Festool screw clamps. They work themselves loose somehow.

I’ve since switched to the Wen track saw clamps — the Trigger Squeeze clamp is easier, faster and secure for me.

IMG_1120.webp
 
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