Shaper origin users… what end mills do you use?

[estley]

I’ve had my shaper for a few months, The bits go dull fast. The 1/4 bit that came with the machine lasted a little longer than some I got from Amazon. That said, does anyone have a brand suggestion for something a little higher quality?

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[fraz]

The stock bit is great.  They are just aluminum cutting endmills and work great for wood.  A few things I would like to know:

1) What material are you cutting?  If wood, what types and grain direction?
2) What speed is the spindle?
3) What is the depth of cut relative to bit?
4) What is the feed speed (on auto and how fast are you pushing it?)
5) Do the bits show burning and discoloration?
6) Do you clean your bits?
7) What are you using for dust extraction? (CRITICAL)

I have used stock Origin bits, cheap SpeTool bits from AMZN (I like), high end aluminum cutting bits (hand me down from friend who is prototype machinist), Freud, Diablo, and expensive Amana Spektra coated bits to name a few.  Bits should last fairly long as you treat them well.  Push them too hard or fast, you'll dull them quickly no matter what.  Keep em clean and they'll last a little longer and cut cleaner.  I started using CMT 2050 recently and a little goes a long way with a little stainless or brass brush.  The Spektra do offer a longer life at a premium price.

One other thing is if you are using the shelf and cutting through tape, you've gotta clean that tape off EVERY TIME you cut through it.

FYI, the forums athttp://community.shapertools.com are also a good place to get info.  I'm there, same name

I burned up my first stock Shaper bit pretty good.  Then again I was doing a lot of baltic birch and it is pretty rough on edges.

I will also add that the Diablo bits you can get for $26 (up $4) are really quite good for the value and availability.  Especially with baltic birch.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-1-4-in-x-1-in-Carbide-Up-Spiral-Router-Bit-DR75102/100660697

 

[estley]

answers:

1- mostly plywood, birch and maple
2- 6
3- never more than 1:1
4- wonderful question, i cant remember
5- burning mostly, they also burn the wood and have soot on the
6- not really, i know I should
7- ct26

I'll give those a try, and, i totally forgot about the shaper forum, thanks!!

 

[rmwarren]

If you are not cleaning your bits frequently try that. My 'dull' bits cut a lot better once I started...

[attachimg=1]

RMW

 

[fraz]

Ok good we're getting somewhere.

1) No ifs ands or butts, plywood is a bitch on endmills; especially baltic.  Keep extra bits on hand as you will consume them.  Also why I like the cheaper ones.  You have multiple layers of veneer laminated in opposing directions so you are always cutting against and with grain at all times.
2) NEVER!  I typically use 5 and slow how fast I push the machine whether human or on auto/auto-lock. If you watch any of the Shaper Sessions you will see those guys roll with 4-5.
3) Good.  Still a good idea to follow the Origin Mantra (what I call it)... Many shallower passes with .02-.03 offset to final depth.  Then do full depth passes removing offset to final fit or dimension to clean up edges (and any burns).
4) Default is 10ips. This only applies when you hit auto button in corners or if you are in auto-lock (I use a lot now).  If you, the human, are the feed speed, be mindful to not try to fly faster than the cut can keep up.  Good recipe for burning/dulling there too.
5) This is a clear indicator speed is too fast and/or bit is dull.  Get a couple new bits, drop speed and try again.
6) I don't clean em often but it really helps.  A shallow dish, squirt some CMT 2050 in, get bit coated and let is sit for a little while, then scrub with a little stainless or brass brush.  It helps get pitch, sap, and adhesive off of the bits and they run cooler and last longer.
7) Good choice, I have the same cranked up to full speed.  If in shop I will connect to a drop to my dust collector.  Some of the users have modded the shroud trying to improve dust extraction.  I think it works ok, just make sure to vacuum out excess chips in between passes.  I use the 4mm hex wrench followed by vac to clear the deep channels.  Leaving junk in the grooves will also prematurely wear bits.

Even if you are not a traditional machinist, there is solid logic to follow here.  When a metal machinist is milling a big block of aluminum or steel, they have a nozzle that floods the part and tool with coolant.  It helps lubricate the cut and keeps it cool.  Your dust extractor works similarly.  If you allow it clear path to cut, it will provide cool airflow to the tool that will improve cuts, reduce burning, and give some longevity to your bits.  Goes without saying, if you plunk down big money on fancy bits, you really need to pay attention to their care.  That is, unless you are rich.  [big grin]

 

[estley]

"rich" no... not with this tool habit.

Thanks for all the help, I'll make adjustments and report back, thanks again!!

 

[rmhinden]

I’ve had my shaper for a few months, The bits go dull fast. The 1/4 bit that came with the machine lasted a little longer than some I got from Amazon. That said, does anyone have a brand suggestion for something a little higher quality?

When the original 1/4" bit that came with my Shaper Orgin started to get dull, I got the Whiteside Router Bits RU2100.    It's been working well, I may get another as a spare.

Bob

 

[rst]

I buy most of my tooling from toolstoday.com.  They carry mostly Amana but also AGE German blades.  I've also bought CMT.