Sitting on Domino fence

[Terry S]

Goal: Move from softwood cabinets and trim work to projects using regional hardwoods.

The Kapex sale has finally moved me off the fence.  I'm replacing an old radial arm saw (dust bomb #1) with a Kapex, & CT 36.  As soon as I commission those I'll be adding a TS 55, MFT, rails, etc... to be able to precisely break down my sheet goods.  This has always been my big show stopper, eg. done a lot of sawing with a circular saw (dust bomb # 2) and small table saw (dust bomb #3).  Almost all of my work has been with various soft woods.  I live in hardwood country and there's numerous mills within a 1/2 hr drive that have great deals on kiln dried & milled  North East hardwoods.  Once I get the Kapex and track saw dialed in I'm going to up grade my current router system (dust bomb #4) to a Kapex CMS system.  OK the previous is a given to get to where I want to go.  Where I don't have is experience in the Domino system.  I'm pretty sure I'd like to move away from pocket screws on my face frames to tenons where appropriate and possible.  It appears from my research that the Domino is the way to go.  Assuming that my board thickness and end cuts are up to snuff:

1) Will the Domino 500 system give me nice neat joints on 3/4" hardwood face frame stiles with a minimum of fuss?

2) It looks like the Domino is an efficient system for assembling 3/4 BB frames and then attaching the 3/4 hardwood face frames?

3) If there is a slight board thickness difference in the face frame boards can I easily set up the Domino  so the difference goes to the back side of the face frame board and then just sand or plane the proud board even?  I"m trying to avoid or delay getting a thickness planer.  I'm figuring on being careful in my stock selection at the mill.  In a real pinch I can put my good blade on my portable table saw and trim down a board, my max limit on that would be around 4" but I'm sure I'd end up with saw marks on hardwood.  Not forgiving like pine.

4) I'm thinking that the big change for me will be using the Domino system in my work flow instead of pocket screws.  I'm going to start with some hardwood built in's in  my closets and then move onto the bathroom and kitchen cabinets.  Where I'm looking for reassurance is the investment in the Domino system for working with 3/4 in Maple and Cherry instead of pocket screws?

Thank's for any input,  Terry S.  (See ya at the JLC Live?)

 

[peter halle]

Terry, Welcome to the FOG!  After reading your post I predict that you will have an overall eye opening and enjoyable journey.  The Domino is a great way to join woods.  It doesn't care if you are using softwoods or hardwoods.  The reference face is whatever you choose.  Most use the show face so any differences are to the rear.  Now all that being said I am one of many proponents of the Domino in addition to pocket screws in the work flow if it makes sense.  If the screws will be hidden then the dominoes add some strength and positioning and the screws act as the clamps while the glue dries which helps out with clamps and speeds up the process.

Never be afraid to let us know how you are getting along or ask questions!

Peter

 

[Birdhunter]

I agree you will probably like the Domino system. There is a learning curve. The learning curve can be accelerated by watching Halfinchshy's videos and practicing on scrap wood. The Seneca accessory Domiplate for the 500 really helps with 3/4" and 1/2" plywood.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Terry,

Welcome to the forum and definitely will see you at JLC (and hopefully Connect).

I'll let others give you their unbiased opinions, but I wanted to mention that we have 30-day money back guarantee. The best way to see if it will do what you want is to just trying it yourself.

Also, we'll have the Domino with us in Providence if you need a demo.

See you there.

Shane

 

[Terry S]

Thanks!  Being able to easily register to either side will be important.  I'll look hard at that Seneca, I've found over the years that well thought out accessories make all the difference in the world in exploiting the capabilities of any system, e.g. tools, photography, computers, etc..  That's what's moved me to Festool, I see the portable dust collection as being a system integrated accessory.

Shane, I was up at the 2014 JLC Live Connect.  It was with out a doubt one of the best returns on time invested that I've had in a long time.  Looking forward to see what you guys pull out of your hat's this year! 

Terry

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I added 3 RAS, well after I had my kapex.  Wouldn't mind having another.

 

[jacko9]

Terry,

I have been using the Domino since their introduction and have added the DF700 as well.  I only build hardwood furniture and cabinets and yes, you can get near perfect joints with the Domino after developing a few simple techniques (that you can find on here).

To answer your question about boards of slightly different thicknesses, always use a reference mark on one side and adjacent edge and make all of your cuts off the reference face.

I grew up in upstate NY and while visiting my parents years back drove around and visited the small mills, it was a fun trip.

Jack

 

[Audiophile20]

Terry,

I bought the Domino when it first came out.  Made a queen size bed - all joints courtesy of Domino.  No problems.  I also built a couple of end units - face frame joints courtesy of Domino.  I am a hobby woodworker not a professional.  All in all, one of the best tools I have owned.  I have an FMT as well, but the flexibility and ease of use is unmatched.

Hope this helps.

 

[fritter63]

Terry - don't bother buying a domino.

Instead, let me sell you my (lightly) used Leigh FMT. I haven't used it much since I got my domino....

[cool]

 

[Terry S]

Wow! That says a lot.  One of the things that's moving me towards the Domino is it's flexibility.  Not only can I do face frames and carcasses with it but I can use the same tool to assemble panels, doors, etc.  Once I get it mastered I have a 100 ft or so of old American Chestnut 3/4" X 5" boards that I'd like to assemble into some panel doors.  http://festoolownersgroup.com/Smileys/default/laugh.gif

 

[Scorpion]

I've tried a variety of joinery for face frames and I'm still way partial to pocket screws over dominos for the actual face frame construction.  The screw strength is far superior to the glue + domino.  Alignment is where it shines in face frames.

Then, after fit up I mark and pull the parts, drill the pocket holes and assemble. 

I've tried dominos for face frames but it's a bunch of messing around waiting for glue to dry.  I've tried a combo of dominos and pocket screws and it just increases the fabrication time without added value (my opinion).  Here's a cabinets ready for the face frames.  Many dominos!

Reattaching the face frame is effortless with only subtitle nudging. 

Where the domino really shines is cabinet fabrication.  When time and care is done to lay out and machine the pockets the pieces just go together making dry fitting a sometimes clampless endeavor.

I'll spend money on an expensive tool but it HAS TO create a substantial return on investment to be considered a good purchase.  I've had mine now for a couple months and I'd say I've already paid for multiple times over and I'm a hobbiest.  I redid the office in a couple of weeks and my kids moved in and started doing crafts while in progress.  Neat trick..to get all of the cabinets aligned I cut a narrow domino at the top and a medium one at the bottom of each side of the face frame and joined it to its neighbor.  Perfect alignment easily both up and down and front to back even when the walls aren't straight and simple shimming before screws and you're golden.

It's made projects far easier than I previously thought my skill level supported.  Turns out I just didn't have the right tools.  Now I'm considering fabricating all of the interior and exterior doors for the house and before doing so I'll buy the XL version so I have both.

I am a domino fan.  It was the first Festool I purchased and it replaced a barely used biscuit jointer.  Very soon after my first build I went back to the CoolAid stand because I needed and wanted more.  I now use a jigsaw daily instead of hardly ever.  My RO90 is my favorite sander ever.  My TS and mft3 makes difficult table saw tasks a snap and I now use a circular saw every day instead of rarely.  The Domino wasn't only a game changer for me, it was THE game changer.

 

[Terry S]

Thanks for taking the time and showing your work flow, answers my questions.  Nice looking projects and I like your beta testers.  Combining the Domino with pocket screws is obviously a valuable technique.  I  like love the idea of using it for alignment and dry assembly.  Would have saved some grief on several projects.  No doubt that this is not just a tool but also a technique. 

Terry

 

[dltflt]

First welcome to FOG. Getting the Domino is a no brained. Once you get past the learning curve you will know you made a good decision.

 

[Stone Message]

1) Will the Domino 500 system give me nice neat joints on 3/4" hardwood face frame stiles with a minimum of fuss? YES

2) It looks like the Domino is an efficient system for assembling 3/4 BB frames and then attaching the 3/4 hardwood face frames?
It really is !

3) If there is a slight board thickness difference in the face frame boards can I easily set up the Domino  so the difference goes to the back side of the face frame board and then just sand or plane the proud board even?  I"m trying to avoid or delay getting a thickness planer.  I'm figuring on being careful in my stock selection at the mill.  In a real pinch I can put my good blade on my portable table saw and trim down a board, my max limit on that would be around 4" but I'm sure I'd end up with saw marks on hardwood.  Not forgiving like pine.
Yes, all you do is reference from the side that you want plane/flat/flush.

4) I'm thinking that the big change for me will be using the Domino system in my work flow instead of pocket screws.  I'm going to start with some hardwood built in's in  my closets and then move onto the bathroom and kitchen cabinets.  Where I'm looking for reassurance is the investment in the Domino system for working with 3/4 in Maple and Cherry instead of pocket screws?
I appreciate that some people are dedicated pocket screw fans but I never use them as they spoil the look of the work and are not necessary. The only advantage is for people who have no clamps or are a dash impatient (with due apologies to the PS fans).

Thank's for any input,  Terry S.  (See ya at the JLC Live?)

Hi Terry,

My woodwork has been transformed by the Domino. I do a lot of face-frame work and the Domino (together with the Trim Stop) make it a breeze. I have sold my morticer, never even thought once about getting into pocket hole work and everything comes together square and neat first time.

Peter

 

[sancho57]

To answer your questions I'll give you my take.

1) Will the Domino 500 system give me nice neat joints on 3/4" hardwood face frame stiles with a minimum of fuss?


Yes it will. But there is a learning curve. Be sure to start out by marking your ref faces.

2) It looks like the Domino is an efficient system for assembling 3/4 BB frames and then attaching the 3/4 hardwood face frames?

It does work very well but remember you have to glue and clamp  the pieces and wait for them to dry. Some cases I prefer the keg jig. Especially f/f where no clamping and glue up is req and they PHs can't be seen.

3) If there is a slight board thickness difference in the face frame boards can I easily set up the Domino  so the difference goes to the back side of the face frame board and then just sand or plane the proud board even?  I"m trying to avoid or delay getting a thickness planer.  I'm figuring on being careful in my stock selection at the mill.  In a real pinch I can put my good blade on my portable table saw and trim down a board, my max limit on that would be around 4" but I'm sure I'd end up with saw marks on hardwood.  Not forgiving like pine.

Since my thicknesser is inop I've been re sawing the pieces using my table saw. I use my RO90 for sanding out the saw marks and sanding the joints even.

4) I'm thinking that the big change for me will be using the Domino system in my work flow instead of pocket screws.  I'm going to start with some hardwood built in's in  my closets and then move onto the bathroom and kitchen cabinets.  Where I'm looking for reassurance is the investment in the Domino system for working with 3/4 in Maple and Cherry instead of pocket screws

As I said earlier it depends. I do really like the domino for case construction if they can't  be seen I'll domino for strength and alignment the run some screws in the sides.

Hope this helps.

 

[John Beauchamp]

Cabinets are my business. I have a domino but would never use it for face frames on cabinets. I have been using pocket holes for fifteen years. It's very fast, plenty strong and don't require a ton of clamps. I can cut and assemble the frames for an entire kitchen in less than a day. When I finish one it can be leaned in a stack taking up very little space. I have never had a frame failure. I believe a frame just has to look good and hold up the doors, what other strength does it need. I have had to take some frames apart, and it breaks the wood.  Dominos would work fine if you don't already have a pocket hole set up but it would be slower and require more clamps and space. If you don't already have a system you could push it either way. You can build a system around the tools or the tools around the system. For me time is money and space is always in the picture so I'll use the domino for other things.

 

[Dongar]

Hi Terry. I live in Grahamsville so I am probably not far from you. I presently own both Dominoes at least until I decide if I need to keep the smaller one. If you want to try them before you buy one let me know. Donald

 

[jacko9]

Way to go Donald, I would gladly offer the same to my neighbors undecided about Festool products.

Jack