Sliding CMS question

[VictorL]

Hello,

I owned compound miter saw for few years and didn?t have any problems with that. Recently I bought sliding compound miter saw and having some difficulties especially with narrow and thin oak moldings (1/2x1/4, 1/2x3/4, 3/4x3/4). When I need cut 1/16 or so off the molding for precise fit, saw is mulching edge in 50+% cases. It doesn?t mater if I slide or chop. Saw works fine with wider and thicker stock/moldings. It seems like I?m doing something wrong. Could you please give me some advice?

Thanks,
VictorL

 

[danrush]

Hey Victor,

Not sure what "mulching" is?  The biggest problem I encounter is small chunks flying at incredible speeds looking for eyes or very expensive stained glass windows to take out!

I cut ton's of brittle 1/2" x 1/4" prefinished stock.  The key for me is slow feed rate.  That's assuming you already covered the bases re:  Good , sharp blade, probably 100 tooth or better.  Full length back support or sacrificial fence for the thin stock.  Clamping the small pieces to avoid "fly-off"

Dan

 

[ken257]

What saw SCMS do you have? How sharp is the blade? I do suspect that you may have a low tooth count blade that is better suited for framing and not for small trim. Many new saws come with this type of blade.

 

[ken257]

Dan and I posted at the same time I also do as he sugests and use a piece of wood as a sacrificial fence. The opening between the left and right fence is often to big when cutting small trim.

 

[VictorL]

Thanks so much for your response. "Mulching" is process that converting pre-finished oak molding into mulch. Cut line looks like it was chopped with dull axe. Chunks of wood similar to mulch are flying around the shop. After that I had to cut 1-2? ruined (chewed) part of molding with sad grim.  :'(  I used the same saw 96 teeth saw blade on regular CMS without any problems 10 minutes before. It seems like sacrificial fence will work.

Thanks,
VictorL

 

[John Langevin]

If you are also getting tearout on the bottom of the cut, try making a "zero clearance' insert. I am always surprised that more trim carpenters don't do this.

 

[Spike]

Could be blade deflection, lack of material support (sac. fence with zero kerf), feed rate too fast, wrong blade (not enough teeth or proper teeth). Try a much slower feed rate on the real small narrow mouldings and let the blade come to full stop before raising blade or removing molding.
I strongly suggest a Forrest Chop Master blade.

 

[Tinker]

All of above info is correct. 

note about blade:  If you sre using a 10" saw, are you using same blade as with your table saw?
If so, don't.  The teeth for your 10" TS are probably positive pitch while teeth on SCMS should be negative pitch.

you did not say you used any but the blade that came with your saw, but this is just a thought just in case you did make a change

Tinker