Smooth sleeve hose - worth the extra cost?

[nifflerUK]

Hi forum members,

After your helpful answers to my questions I was planning to buy the CT-15. I knew it didn't come with the new smooth antistatic hose so checked the price of buying that. Here in the UK, the cost of the Festool Antistatic Hose with Bypass D27/32 - 3.5m (108547) is the same as the price difference between the CT 15 and the CTL Midi [eek]

When is the smooth anti static hose worthwhile? An answer I found was "when working with dusts that create charge" but I've not found which they are.

My use is going to be attached to a Mirka Deros sanding plaster and painted walls. Is this smooth hose lighter or more flexible making it easier to move than the traditional style hose?

Edit: I changed the title as from the Festool product comparison I believe both hoses are anti static, but one is smooth and the other isn't?

 

[ChuckM]

I have seen little to zero benefits from using an anti-static hose (CT26) vs a CT 15 hose other than:

- Dust might stick to the outside of a regular hose near the end when removing tons of material from a board with a belt sander (no such problem with using the Pro 5 ltd sander, kapex, df500 or router).

I have never had a static shock from using a regular/non static hose ever. I do get shocks now and then in the winter when touching the door handles or knobs!

So I will not waste my money on an anti-static hose despite what marketing material promotes.

I don't need to drag the CT15 hose when using it, sl its smoothness is irrelevant to me.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

When I first started with Festool, all I had was a DF500, and it was basically all I used dust extraction for at my bench. After that big out-lay of cash, I used a simple shop-vac and an I-Socket switch. The shop-vac hose wouldn't fit the DF500, so I did get a Festool hose. This was years ago, when the green anti-static hoses were than same harder plastic ribbed hose as the cheaper silver hose. I went the cheap route and did later find out that the anti-static does work. I would get shocked regularly with the silver hose, mostly in the winter, but with extended use, it would bite any time.
"Dust that creates charge" is a red herring. The dust itself is not what makes the charge, it's the friction in the hose. Of course, chips bigger than sanding dust are better at it.
I just put up with it and tried not to touch the hose itself, for a while. Getting the CT26 was a game changer. I got mine after the hose change, so I never had the older green hose, can't tell you if it is better or not. I assume so though.
I do still have/use a silver hose. It is permanently attached to my router table, for the under table extraction. For above the table I use a 36mm green hose and swap back and forth, depending on the nature of the cut.
I guess it depends on what you use the CT for? If you plan to use it for general shop clean-up (ever), you would be better served by getting one of the cleaning kits that includes the bigger hose. It brings down the cost of the hose proportionally and the bigger hose is faarr better for that anyway.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

My 10 cents - the smooth, non-ribbed hoses are fabulous. Expensive yes, but well worth the price. As a cynic, my initial reaction was “HOW MUCH ??!!” - but suffice to say I eventually bought three of them - a 27mm dedicated to my Mirka with the sander’s power cable fastened to it, a second 27mm with an adaptor to hook up to my Makita kit, plus a 36mm for my TS55, OF2200 and DeWalt mitre saw. Smooth, super-flexible - and you don’t feel like you’re wrestling with a boa constrictor whilst using it. And for use with the Mirka? I’ll just leave this pic of today’s job here ….

[attachimg=1]

 

[rmwarren]

Yes.

As noted, this hose is supple and you don't have to wrestle with it.

RMW

 

[semenza]

Hi forum members,

After your helpful answers to my questions I was planning to buy the CT-15. I knew it didn't come with the new smooth antistatic hose so checked the price of buying that. Here in the UK, the cost of the Festool Antistatic Hose with Bypass D27/32 - 3.5m (108547) is the same as the price difference between the CT 15 and the CTL Midi [eek]

When is the smooth anti static hose worthwhile? An answer I found was "when working with dusts that create charge" but I've not found which they are.

My use is going to be attached to a Mirka Deros sanding plaster and painted walls. Is this smooth hose lighter or more flexible making it easier to move than the traditional style hose?

Edit: I changed the title as from the Festool product comparison I believe both hoses are anti static, but one is smooth and the other isn't?

You will have to decide whether or not it is worth it for your own usage. 

The AS property is dependent on the usage and also the environment. Some either don't sand much or have shop conditions that don't promote static shocks. I personally get zapped all the time  when sanding with non-AS.

Also, on the smoothness of the hose...........................  it isn't just that they are smooth. It is the extremely good flexibility and almost no coil memory. These hoses can curve in multiple directions with ease. If AS hoses didn't even exist I would still want these hoses for the other properties.

Seth

 

[Peter_C]

I have the old style and the new style. The new style is superior. My personal preference is for 5 meter hoses. Anything less is just too short especially for a D36 hose.

 

[mino]

Ref OP.

Not sure how in the US, but in Europe the CT is now sold with the new black RAS-CT anti-static hose. Over here the only non-AS hose on offer is the 50mm one from the building site cleaning set.

The sleeved hose is a godsend for tool use, especially for tracksaw use or LR32 etc. But I would not consider it for CT15. It is then much better to just get the Midi instead which comes with it. The price just does no work out.

A good option is to get e.g. the Floor cleaning set:https://www.festool.de/zubehoer/577259---rs-bd-d-36-plus

That D 36 BD 370 floor nozzle is excellent and is itself worth $150 or so. The whole set then becomes a very good value. Also the SYS5 in which it ships is great - I keep it on my CTM 36 permanently for the D36 or D27/32 hose storage, depending which one is not used.

ADD:
If you are in market for your "Main" vac then just forget the CT15. Get the Midi + the Bluetooth remote. No question.
You get
- Bluetooth remote (!), just for this the price diff is worth it
- sleeved AS hose
- hose garage (a godsend for transporting the CT)
- manual cleaning option (you really want this in a universal vac that will get used for plaster etc. sooner or later)
- kick-stand

The CT15 is a stripped-to-the-bone tool designed as a secondary vac for static use, shop cleaning etc. It has almost no features that make for a good general shop dust extractor, except the filtration which is the same.

 

[ChuckM]

Ref OP.

Snip.

The CT15 is a stripped-to-the-bone tool designed as a secondary vac for static use, shop cleaning etc. It has almost no features that make for a good general shop dust extractor, except the filtration which is the same.

Agreed.  It's mostly better than a shop vac in the hose, noise, filtration and auto switch feature.

Spending more money on a CT15 to make it work more like a CT MIDI or Ct26 with little money to save is not a path I'd take. My usual approach is to save the most or get the best (for the job), and that's why I also have shop vacs instead of all CTs.

If my applications required BT or anti-static feature
I wouldn't have bought the CT15.

 

[jcrowe1950]

Agreed.  It's mostly better than a shop vac in the hose, noise, filtration and auto switch feature.

Spending more money on a CT15 to make it work more like a CT MIDI or Ct26 with little money to save is not a path I'd take. My usual approach is to save the most or get the best (for the job), and that's why I also have shop vacs instead of all CTs.

If my applications required BT or anti-static feature
I wouldn't have bought the CT15.

    In the U.S. the CT15 now comes with the RAS hose with the antistatic feature and the bleeder valve in the nozzle. I sold one yesterday, I think appropriately, to a customer whose tool purchase was a RO90.(Yes, I did work on July 4th). The turbine and most of the electronics are shared between the CT15 the Midi and the Mini. The distinguishing features you find in the Mini and Midi include the T-loc hose garage, the smooth antistatic hose, the filter cleaning feature and Bluetooth....the price difference is currently $260 between the CT15 and the Midi. I think inclusion of the new antistatic hose in the CT15 made it a much more attractive option. As always, YMMV. At our store, we have both a demo CT15 and Midi that we use constantly in classes and (not so appropriately IMO due to volume of chips) in the CNC area. They are both fine DEs and for people who are going to mostly use the DE with sanders or even track saws...the CT15 is perfectly functional.

P.S. - WRT the newer sheathed hoses being fantastic....I agree. My first Festool purchases were a TS75 and a CT22.....the DE came with one of those green ribbed unsheathed antistatic hoses and every time it caught on the end of the guide rail while I was sawing, I wondered if there was a solution. The flexibility is also a huge improvement.

 

[ChuckM]

In the U.S. the CT15 now comes with the RAS hose with the antistatic feature and the bleeder valve in the nozzle.

That makes the CT15 a good choice for those who use track saws.

 

[Coen]

Topicstarter is from the UK. Price difference between 15 and midi is vastly different on both sides of the ocean.

Price difference here is way smaller. So for the hose alone... get the midi.

 

[nifflerUK]

Thanks everyone for taking part, this has been most helpful. I thought I'd done a detailed feature comparison of the CT 15 and MIDI but completely overlooked the lack of filter cleaning feature. As I'm planning to sand plaster a lot that seems worthwhile as I know how fine the dust is, and that's before we get to the extra flexibility of the sleeved hose. With the price being £110 ($130) difference I'll go for the MIDI.

[member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member] nice floor there. What will you use to finish it once sanded? Here we have 25 year old engineered wood flooring that's cracking apart between every few wooden strips. It will need a bit more than a sand to restore it (if even possible to save).

 

[woodbutcherbower]

[member=78271]nifflerUK[/member] Old parquet floors were bonded to the subfloor using bitumen in 99% of cases. The ‘cracking’ you refer to is a combination of the bitumen drying out and letting go of the timber, plus the shrinkage and expansion of the timber itself. Best restoration is achieved by gently sanding off the old finish (= Mirka + 120-grit, not a savage hire-shop drum sander), followed by old-school spirit stain to restore the colour (= Rustin’s solvent-based wood dye, available in numerous intermixable colours), followed by at least 3 coats of oil-based yacht varnish. Allow each coat to dry for 24 hours and sand to 320 or 400-grit between coats depending on how uneven the surface is after each coat.  Dilute the first coat with 25% white spirit, and apply very liberally - this will flood the gaps and act as a clear filler/adhesive, bonding the whole surface together. Works beautifully every time. I’ve just replaced all of the panelling in a 1790 rectory working from an 1897 photo - the original red mahogany floor (buried underneath vinyl and chipboard panels - can you actually believe someone thought it was a good idea to hide that?) was refurbished using the above method. I do a lot of restoration work for the National Trust, and this is their approved method also.

Engineered flooring is either glued to a subfloor using a flexible silane adhesive such as Bona R848/Thomsit P618, or laid dry as a floating floor on top of a suitable underlay. Splitting of the joints is usually caused by the glue drying out (underfloor heating is a bugger for this), or the subfloor not being completely level and flat, causing flex on the engineered boards and consequent breaking of the T&G or click lock joints. Only way to assess it is to take a few of the boards up and have a look. If the engineered boards are proper 20-25mm thick ones with a decent 4/6mm wear layer, a decent joiner will be able to take them up, and re-glue/re-lay them, leaving them ready for finishing. I’ve done it many, many times with a good success rate.