Some recent projects

[ROb McGilp]

Hi everyone,

Its been a while, but...
I thought I'd post a recent project of mine for you to see.

This is a box I made for a chap who collects watches. He needed a box with 10 compartments each of which has a 4" x 4" black leatherette pillow for the watches to be clipped onto. There are three timbers in the box. The carcass is Curly Jarrah (West Australia) as is the lid panel, The compartment dividers are Birds eye Huon Pine (Tasmania) and the lid edging is Fiddle back Tasmanian Blackwood. The box is finished with Wattyl Teak oil, burnished to give durability to the finish, and "Traditional Wax" from UBeaut.
The tools used were Generic Band saw, table saw and thicknesser, KS120, ETS150/3, DTS400, TS75 and a generic router table and Triton Router.

Regards,

 

[fritter63]

Very nice!

Can you share your technique for making the divider "lap joints" nice and tight? I've always had trouble with that.

Thanks.

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

That's a lovely box! Well done

 

[nclemmons]

Rob - really nice job on the box.  The wood really pops and I love the contrasting choices.

Fritter - As to the question on dividers:

Here's a box I made a few years back:  http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/jewelry-box/

I created the divider slats and thicknessed them with extra length and then held them together with blue painters tape to 'gang-cut' them as a batch for the horizontal and then vertical slats.  That gave me consistent alignment.

In terms of cutting them, I used the Kapex with the saw set to cut 1/2 way through the strips using the depth 'plough' flip-down adjustment on the saw.  You could also use a bandsaw or a cabinetmakers dovetail saw as another alternative.

Getting my half-laps an accurate width was accomplished with the Bridge City Kerfmaker - http://www.bridgecitytools.com/default/featured/km-1-kerfmaker.html
John produces those in batches, so if you are interested, add your name to his list on the site. 
Paul-Marcel on the FOG has done a tutorial on using the Kerfmaker - http://www.halfinchshy.com/search?q=kerfmaker

You don't need the kerfmaker to create the grid - careful measuring and cutting with the 'ganged' approach will work well. 

You do need to be mindful of cutting the overlapping pieces consistently so they go together properly.  And so they are not loose.

That's how I have done it - I'm sure there are other approaches as well.

neil

 

[knight joinery]

Looks like Bridgecity make a lot of tools to do jobs you can do with tools you already own, the kerf gauge does nothing my digital vernier calipers wont do and I can measure with those too. Hits me as a bit of a nonsense really.

 

[knight joinery]

Planes look nice but I couldn't justify the expenditure