Sorting out the swirls?

bub254

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Apr 25, 2014
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Building a cheval mirror out of walnut and after assembling the frame noticed some unsightly swirl marks.  I sanded with my rotex 125 in rotex mode at 120, then randon mode 150 and finally 180.  Should i have been working in rotex mode then random mode for each of the grits?  I avoided this because I thought I would be removing too much material.
How low should I go now to remove the swirls?  180 in rotex then random?  Thanks.
 
All the sanding should have been done in the Rotex mode.

Try the 180, make sure you dust the piece off first.

Was the wood that bad that you need to start with 120? I usually start with the highest grit I feel will accomplish the final product. Most times it's the only grit I need. If it is not aggressive enough I work backwards to the grit that does the job, then back to the highest grit.

My most common used grits for bare wood sanding is 150 and 180. Wipe/vacuum the piece clean between grits.

Tom
 
I would have been thinking the opposite. That all the sanding should have been done in random orbit mode to avoid having  the Rotex mode create the swirl marks.

Seth
 
This has been posted many times in the forum, but this seems like another good opportunity to push it back to the top:



But by no means is this the only or best way.  Wiping off between grits is good advice though. 
 
Seems good but what if you're only sanding to 180 grit?  Doing an oil finish and 180 is recommended.
 
Every piece in these photos were sanded to 180 in the Rotex mode only. Finishes are sanded to 320 with my ETS 125.

The woods are Quarter sawn white oak, red oak (pickled and stained), sapele mahogany plywood, the bar is walnut, turntable plinth is maple, stool is walnut, cherry, maple and ipe (finish on the stool is Surfix).

Takes a little practice to get it to this level but it can be done.

Tom

 
 

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Better picture of the bar.

Tom
 

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tjbnwi said:
Every piece in these photos were sanded to 180 in the Rotex mode only. Finishes are sanded to 320 with my ETS 125.
Love the pickled and stained red oak...
 
Cheese said:
tjbnwi said:
Every piece in these photos were sanded to 180 in the Rotex mode only. Finishes are sanded to 320 with my ETS 125.
Love the pickled and stained red oak...

[member=44099]Cheese[/member]

Thanks.

Another real interesting oak finish you may like is a cerused finish.

Tom
 
Hey [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member],
I just Googled ceruse and I do like the look a lot. It dates back to the 1500's, pretty nice stuff. Probably one of those love it or hate it finishes but I've always liked shades of grey so it works for me. I have some oak window trim I may try the ceruse finish on. Thanks Tom for the heads-up. [big grin]

Whoops, I almost forgot...the pictures of the pickled oak were great but I forgot to complement you on the mitred corners...all of the grain matches as it traverses the corner. Sweet...& a nice attention to detail.
 
Cheese said:
Hey [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member],
I just Googled ceruse and I do like the look a lot. It dates back to the 1500's, pretty nice stuff. Probably one of those love it or hate it finishes but I've always liked shades of grey so it works for me. I have some oak window trim I may try the ceruse finish on. Thanks Tom for the heads-up. [big grin]

Whoops, I almost forgot...the pictures of the pickled oak were great but I forgot to complement you on the mitred corners...all of the grain matches as it traverses the corner. Sweet...& a nice attention to detail.

[member=44099]Cheese[/member],

If you need any advise on the ceruse finish, let me know.

Thanks, if you look at the mahogany piece that grain follows round the corner also. The hardest is when you have to follow around all the sides. Usually the last one will be a little off.

Tom
 
Tom,

    Why do you use Rotex mode for finish sanding instead of random orbit only?

Seth

 
SRSemenza said:
Tom,

    Why do you use Rotex mode for finish sanding instead of random orbit only?

Seth

I sand the finishes with my ETS 125.

I sand raw wood with the Rotex in the Rotex mode to eliminate the chance of swirl marks.

Tom
 
I've tried doing my sanding progression entirely in Rotex mode and it seems like I always end up with longer "quarter arc" marks instead of the tight circles created in random orbit mode.  These look even worse which is very frustrating!!!

Lately, I've been using my ETS 150/3 for everything.
 
tjbnwi said:
SRSemenza said:
Tom,

    Why do you use Rotex mode for finish sanding instead of random orbit only?

Seth

I sand the finishes with my ETS 125.

I sand raw wood with the Rotex in the Rotex mode to eliminate the chance of swirl marks.

Tom

Hmmmm, I always find that it creates more rather than less. Interesting.

Seth
 
Tom, was wondering what grit paper you use with your ETS 125 for sanding the finishes and what your process is for getting the nice finish shown in the photos. Thanks
 
HeavyG said:
Tom, was wondering what grit paper you use with your ETS 125 for sanding the finishes and what your process is for getting the nice finish shown in the photos. Thanks

I'm considering shooting a video on how I sand with the Rotex. Need the time and job to do it on.

Granat 240-400, depends on the finish and which coat I'm sanding. All finishes are sprayed with a Fuji Q4 HVLP except the bar top, that is hand applied Waterlox. 

Tom
 
SRSemenza said:
tjbnwi said:
SRSemenza said:
Tom,

    Why do you use Rotex mode for finish sanding instead of random orbit only?

Seth

I sand the finishes with my ETS 125.

I sand raw wood with the Rotex in the Rotex mode to eliminate the chance of swirl marks.

Tom

Hmmmm, I always find that it creates more rather than less. Interesting.

Seth
  There are others here on FOG that can get the same picture posted finishes out of their Rotex sanders while using the sander in Rotex mode only. I think Darcy talks about this as well.  I haven't really tried to follow this method much yet, cause I haven't had much luck trying.... [embarassed] [embarassed] [doh] [doh] [doh]
 
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