Source of Router Table Surface

[extiger]

My router top will made of 1" baltic birch ply. I was contemplating a laminate top of UMHW for a surface. Who sells this material in sheets?

Or is phenolic slippery enough for this purpose?

Gary Curtis
Northern California

 

[Warrior]

Gary,
You would probably be better off using HDPE it is a little less expensive than UHMW. It is more ridgid and is also slippery. it is still about 400.00 for a 3/4" 4x8' sheet.

Check out any plastics suppliers in your area.

Eiji

 

[polarsea1]

Hi Gary, I'd use a phenolic/plastic laminate, UMHW would be overkill in my opinion.  UMHW is also thermally unstable (~10 times greater than steel) although it probably wouldn't be an issue in a shop.

 

[Jimhart]

It's not hard to scratch or gouge UHMW. As slick as it is, for me it's just too soft.

I used to make jigs, etc. from baltic birch. Had too many of them warp. I honestly wouldn't make another router table top with it.

I used to hate MDF, thought of it like particle board. I now use it for jigs anytime something has to maintain a flat surface. You do need to brace it to keep it from sagging and protect the edges, and it'll stay flat. I cover it with formica.

Jim

 

[extiger]

I'm timid about using 2 sheets of 3/4 mdf. If I do proceed with the 1" BB, would thin phenolic laminated to both sides be enough to stabilize the material?

Router will be a 2.5 HP Milwaukee, and I won't be using a router lifter. So weight will only be around 10 lbs.

Gary

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Gary,

Given that you're starting with 1" birch plywood, I'd use the phenolic (or other wear resistant) laminate as recommended by Polarsea1.

Aliphatic wood glues such as Titebond don't stick to phenolic or melamine so you could also use your new router table top for assembly.  I do that with my phenolic tables.  The dried glue comes off easily.

There are manufacturers of phenolic laminated birch plywood.  Woodpeckers occasionally offers cut down sheets for sale for those who want to make their own router tables and jigs.  Very strong and stable.  Some commercial producers of router tables use solid phenolic sheets.  JoinTech is one of them.  Phenolics are generally more dimensionally stable than HDPE.  I don't know what polymer chemistry people are referring to when they use the term UHMW, because much of that is polyethylene.  It does have a very low coefficient of friction and excellent fracture and abrasion resistance.  My former employer used to sell it to the naval industry for "batterboards" to ward off blows from and to ships and for docking installations, with a molded rubber/metal backing. 

Dave R.

 

[Jimhart]

Gary,

My current router table is the extension table on my tablesaw. It's about 30" x 36". It's a frame of 3" wide 3/4" poplar. The top is 3/4" MDF laminated with formica on top and bottom. I have a PC7518 in a Jointech Routerlift hanging in it. Has to be 30+ lbs total. Hasn't sagged one iota in 6 years. I think the key was making sure the cross members of the poplar frames are right under the edges of the plate.

I've seen the phenolic ply Dave referred to and would jump on that if you can find it in your budget.

Jim

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

I would go with regular laminate on the top,I like a lite grey or white which I can write on with pencil for notes, calculations or whatever else, and then also laminate the bottom side to keep it from warping over time.  Personally, I can't see spending $400 for a sheet of material when that is half of what you can get a Delta heavy duty shaper for on ebay and you can use it with router or shaper cutters and have a cast iron machined table. Plus the shaper is much more versatile than any router table I have ever used.

Best,
Todd

 

[Daviddubya]

Based on my own experience, two pieces of 3/4" MDF, properly bonded together and covered with Formica on both sides, is a perfectly satisfactory router table top for a home shop.  I built mine several years ago, and it is stable and flat.  I have a Word document that describes how I built my top in detail.  Email me through the FOG if you would like a copy, and include your return email address.  I think Formica on both sides of 1" baltic birch would also work just as well, although more pricey than a sheet of 3/4" MDF.  Edge band your top with 1/2" thick hardwood for good looks and added stability.

 

[wnagle]

I also made my top with two layers of 3/4 mdf and laminated with formica.  Strong, flat, slick and inexpensive...I would like to try jointecs top... I've had good experiences with everything I have from jointec.

 

[extiger]

I appreciate all the suggestions based on hard-earned experience, but I don't want pay freight on 80lbs of lumber, and I don't want to scrap my 5x5' Birch Play (1" thick). I just want to cut it to size and skin it with something slippery that will hinder moisture absorbtion  on both faces.

If any of you think flatness is an issue, I have some 1/2 and 3/4 MDF I can laminate to the ply. But I am insistent on using that ply.

thanks to all,

Gary Curtis

 

[nickao]

On the router forum a guy used ply and just put poly on it. It works for him.

 

[woodshopdemos]

I appreciate all the suggestions based on hard-earned experience, but I don't want pay freight on 80lbs of lumber, and I don't want to scrap my 5x5' Birch Play (1" thick). I just want to cut it to size and skin it with something slippery that will hinder moisture absorbtion  on both faces.

If any of you think flatness is an issue, I have some 1/2 and 3/4 MDF I can laminate to the ply. But I am insistent on using that ply.

thanks to all,

Gary Curtis

Gary,
  Such silliness. A good number of people suggested others means but you insist on using the ply. Why? I have a 5 x 5  piece of Baltic birch with layers of phenolic on both sides and I have passed it over several times. Why? Because the application was better served by 3/4" MDF with Formica on both sides. I don't know if it cost more or less. I used it because it was the best choice...freight be damned. One more time: MDF with laminate on both sides if the best router...and use vertical grade laminate...it is all you need.

 

[mastercabman]

I appreciate all the suggestions based on hard-earned experience, but I don't want pay freight on 80lbs of lumber, and I don't want to scrap my 5x5' Birch Play (1" thick). I just want to cut it to size and skin it with something slippery that will hinder moisture absorbtion  on both faces.

If any of you think flatness is an issue, I have some 1/2 and 3/4 MDF I can laminate to the ply. But I am insistent on using that ply.

thanks to all,

Gary Curtis

Gary,
   Such silliness. A good number of people suggested others means but you insist on using the ply. Why? I have a 5 x 5  piece of Baltic birch with layers of phenolic on both sides and I have passed it over several times. Why? Because the application was better served by 3/4" MDF with Formica on both sides. I don't know if it cost more or less. I used it because it was the best choice...freight be damned. One more time: MDF with laminate on both sides if the best router...and use vertical grade laminate...it is all you need.

John,i'm also for MDF and laminate,but why the "vertical" grade?   

 

[nickao]

Vertical grade can be almost 40% thinner, why use it?  Just wondering.

I have made many tops using the double 3/4 MDF with phenolic laminate or Formica brand for top and bottom and never had an issue I know of using the thicker horizontal grade. Definitely if using laminate on the edges(if not using wood) I would use the thicker stuff for a table that will be banged up.

This article states vertical laminate is to thin for a counter top so why use it for a router table?

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9D0DE0D81639F93BA15757C0A960958260

 

[woodshopdemos]

vertical grade is thinner but is available in 4 x 8 sheets for much less money. I have used it for shop surfaces for years and havent worn thru  yet.

 

[nickao]

Saving money is always a priority for me! If it works it works, I thought maybe there was an issue with the thicker stuff.

Most of my Festool purchases are pretty much behind me for a long, long, while.

 

[mastercabman]

vertical grade is thinner but is available in 4 x 8 sheets for much less money. I have used it for shop surfaces for years and havent worn thru  yet.

So it's just a money thing.  got it!

I would also suggest that if you going to use laminate,do not use white.Unless you are planning to keep your table inside.
But if you ever set up outside for whatever reason,the white surface will make you blind on a sunny day.I would use a light gray color laminate.

 

[Chris Hughes]

  I have two router table, one in the field one in the shop.  Both surfaces are solid surface.  I bought both tops as off cuts from a local ss fabricator's shop.  I think I spent $50-$75 each.  One of the tables has a lift the other is a direct mount set up (a copy of the Rousseau table).  Has anybody else used solid surface?
                                                                                      C Hughes

 

[JayStPeter]

My 26"x48" router table top is 2 layers of MDF with laminate on both sides.  7 years, still dead flat.