Split Top Roubo Bench Build

iamnothim

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Hi everybody,
This thread is a spinoff of my Blue Pine Garage Cabinets Built thread.

I am a Marc “The Wood Whisperer” Spagnolo Guild member.  I purchased the Split Top Roubo plans on the guild site for $100.  Besides the schematics Marc includes great videos that I believe are invaluable in successfully completing this build.  At least for me.  I think it’s a great value and Marc is very responsive to Guild Members.  I will also purchase the BenchCrafted Bench Maker's Package with scissor leg vise hardware.  This is, by far, the hardest project I’ve ever undertaken.

The Roubo bench will serve as 8.5’ of semi permanent countertop with a corral underneath for Sys-Carts.
To do this I will eliminate the lower front cross rail and shelf and fix the front legs to the floor with stout “L” brackets.  This makes up for the stability that is lost by eliminating the front rail.  I have an idea for a lateral raise/lower deadman's that replaces the traditional vertical one.  There will be an additional 5.5’ of static counter on the blue pine lower cabinets I will build after the bench.

The top of the bench is made from 14 sticks of 8/4 x 4” x 8.5’ soft maple.  I am in the process of truing up the lumber for this part.  Pages 6 & 7 of the Blue Pine Thread show where I am in the project.  As usual I will post the good, bad, and ugly moments.

I do not have a jointer, band saw, or table saw.  I will use Festool MFT/3 tables, TS75 saw with universal blade, Domino 500, OF1400, and MFK700.  I plan on purchasing the MFS 400 Multi-Routing Template to help with mortises. I also have a DeWalt DW735 planer and a Powermatic PM2800B drill press.  Working with the 8/4 stock has been a challenge without the big machines.

Lastly, Marc has allowed me to post a couple of pages from the schematic to show what I’m doing.  I am very sensitive to protecting the intellectual property of others.

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I will be following this thread and will eventually start my own thread with my Benchcrafted Roubo build. I purchased the Benchcrafted hardware package for Christmas 2013, 200bf of soft maple about a year ago and I also bought Marks plans and the videos for the build. I need to get a drill press and maybe that DeWalt DW735 planer, unfortunately I can't fit a full size planer in my small shop.

I'm currently finishing out my shop with cherry laminated MDF that I was able to get from a room that is being remodeled at my work, it's not ideal but it was free. Once my little shop is completed I will start on the work bench.

Good luck!
 
Runhard said:
I will be following this thread and will eventually start my own thread with my Benchcrafted Roubo build. I purchased the Benchcrafted hardware package for Christmas 2013, 200bf of soft maple about a year ago and I also bought Marks plans and the videos for the build. I need to get a drill press and maybe that DeWalt DW735 planer, unfortunately I can't fit a full size planer in my small shop.

I'm currently finishing out my shop with cherry laminated MDF that I was able to get from a room that is being remodeled at my work, it's not ideal but it was free. Once my little shop is completed I will start on the work bench.

Good luck!

Daniel,
Outstanding to hear you are planning to build a Roubo!

I am sure the cherry MDF will look great in your shop.
I purchased a DW735 off Craigslist and saved about $200.  I'm taking a break from changing the blades as I type this.  I removed two stuck button head fasteners with Grabit Bits.  I have to more.  Oh well. 

I'm holding off the Benchcrafted purchase as long as possible.  Ditto the multi-routing kit.
A note on the Powermatic PM2800B.  I thought I was seeing too much runout.  I removed and refit the chuck several times and it seemed better.  I was looking at machinist dials and stands on the net.  They were far too expensive at $200+.    I went to Harbor Freight yesterday to get some roller stands and there it was!  Gauge and stand, on sale, for $28  Powermatic has shipped me another chuck and arbor.

Not sure if I need a special piece of machined steel to put in the chuck to get accurate measurements.  ??  I used a PC forester bit and it looked like I have .004 runout.

I may just turn today into a sharpen the plane irons and chisels day.

Thanks for posting.

Luke
 
Also,
  Please check out sawmill creek, go to the Neanderthal section.  I built a roubo 2 years ago.  I too changed a few things.  I used old vise parts.  And I'm so happy I did.
 
PA floor guy said:
Also,
  Please check out sawmill creek, go to the Neanderthal section.  I built a roubo 2 years ago.  I too changed a few things.  I used old vise parts.  And I'm so happy I did.

Thanks for the tip.  I will be sure to check out your build.
[member=3220]Jim Kirkpatrick[/member] also has a nice Roubo Bench Build Thread.  It has a lot of great information.
 
Luke,  good to see your Roubo bench thread is up and running.  Be sure to post your misfortunes (if any!) as well as your success.  It'll help others, like myself, not to make the same mistakes.  I love how you have hyperlinks to all your references in your OP.  As good as your Blue Pine thread is, this one's going to be epic!  Keep em coming!
 
Am I being unrealistic in thinking my TS75 with the universal blade (495380) should a lot less time than 30 seconds to rip 2 feet of 8/4 soft maple?  The stock is raised so the blade will only cut the maple.  Depth of cut is 65mm.


 
That doesn't seem right. My TS75 with the universal blade had no problems cutting 8/4 "hard" maple. I'm not sure what the solution is, but you should be able to make that cut without any issues.
 
iamnothim said:
Am I being unrealistic in thinking my TS75 with the universal blade (495380) should a lot less time than 30 seconds to rip 2 feet of 8/4 soft maple?  The stock is raised so the blade will only cut the maple.  Depth of cut is 65mm.



I bet it would work better if the blade was in the saw the proper direction.

Tom
 
Dogberryjr said:
tjbnwi said:
I bet it would work better if the blade was in the saw the proper direction.

Tom

Done that. Could not figure why that 2x4 was smoking.

If you look at most american saw blades the label faces the saw body when properly installed on the saw. Festool saws the label face away from the saw body. I believe that is what gets most people, we are a creature of habit.

Tom
 
I'm certain the label is out. 
How could you tell?
I will check when I get back.
I hope you are right except I'll be an idiot. 
 
iamnothim said:
I'm certain the label is out. 
How could you tell?
I will check when I get back.
I hope you are right except I'll be an idiot. 

Just my best guess. Speed sounded good. If the blade is not backwards that blade is junk.

This video is 4/4 QSWO and maple ripped with the TS-55 and a 48 tooth blade.



Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Just my best guess. Speed sounded good. If the blade is not backwards that blade is junk.

This video is 4/4 QSWO and maple ripped with the TS-55 and a 48 tooth blade.
Tom
Tom,
That's exactly the performance I had on my TS55 REQ.
I got home a minute ago and pulled the FastFix lever. Here's what it looks like...
Last picture is all the stock the blade has ever cut.

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Note:  As you can see from the line of lumber, there aren't any burn marks...
 
Pull the blade and clean it. See what happens. If you don't have blade cleaner fume free Easy Off will work for now. Order some CMT blade cleaner from Tom.

I put a router bit in backwards once, anything can happen.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Pull the blade and clean it. See what happens. If you don't have blade cleaner fume free Easy Off will work for now. Order some CMT blade cleaner from Tom.

I put a router bit in backwards once, anything can happen.

Tom

Using CMT to clean it now.
Here are before closeups.
Also... The arbor nut wasn't very tight... hmmm

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