Spraying cabinet doors/large project advice

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live4ever

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Dec 3, 2011
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Hi All,

I’ll be doing two whole kitchen door spraying projects in short succession.  One project is a new set of doors I’ll be building, second project is a refinish.

Maybe not relevant to the discussion, I’m spraying Target 6500 and BIN primer.

I’m looking for ideas on how to speed up efficiency and prevent goof ups for these projects.  In the past I’ve had the luxury of spraying 1-2 doors at a time and taking my time.  This go around I’d appreciate some pointers on spray setups that will provide better access to all sides at once, drying, etc.  Spraying will be limited to a 12x12 room.  Worth building or buying one of those hanging racks?  Turntable?  Hooks in door edges?  Educate me, please!
 
I have a stage 4 sprayer HVLP, and I get better results when I spray the doors flat.

I replaced my door hinges with soft close.  It also allowed me to change the overlay to 3/4” instead of 1/2”. I also added to the height and to the handle edge, reducing the amount of face frame exposure for a more contemporary look.

You can then attach the old hinges temporarily to hang the doors vertically.

I’m happy that I changed the hinges.  It has worked out well.

I also looked into changing the drawer slides, but installation of the slides in installed cabinets was too difficult.

I used Benjamin Moore’s Advance and it was prone to drips when I sprayed.  I don’t know about your paint though.
 
You'll want to have some good drying racks if you're planning to batch a bunch of doors and drawer fronts. I made my own drying rack using 1/2" dowels and angled them slightly upward. I also made my own lazy susan with two pieces of 2x2-foot plywood panels and this product off Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006LBVDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It works well and lets you be stationary while rotating the workpiece, especially handy to hit all the edges before you spray the top. Like Packard, I recommend spraying the panels flat as you have to worry less about drips.

[attachimg=1]

BIN sprays well as its low viscosity, but has poor gap filling properties. Plan to follow each coat with a soft scotchbrite pad to remove dust nibs and prepare a second coat. I use the magenta pads and they work great for this. I would do at least two coats of BIN as your primer base. I don't have experience with Target 6500 but it looks like a good quality, sprayable finish that can also be fortified with a catalyst hardener. I might consider that if your pieces are going to see some abuse.

You didn't mention how you're spraying it, but I recommend matching the tip size (air nozzle) with whatever Target recommends. For BIN, I usually use a 1.2mm tip and get good results.
 

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tjbnwi said:
What spray system do you have?

Door Rack Pianter to spray both sides and edges. Can't recommend them enough.
https://doorrackpainter.shop

Tom
Click to expand...

Tom, I have a Q5 w bottom feed and gravity guns.  I’ll check out the turntable you linked.  Drying racks will need to be DIY.

Also have an airless (Graco 490) that I like with the FFLP tips.  May use that for the on-site part of the refinish project, especially if I end up using Advance.
 
ryanjg117 said:
You'll want to have some good drying racks if you're planning to batch a bunch of doors and drawer fronts. I made my own drying rack using 1/2" dowels and angled them slightly upward. I also made my own lazy susan with two pieces of 2x2-foot plywood panels and this product off Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006LBVDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It works well and lets you be stationary while rotating the workpiece, especially handy to hit all the edges before you spray the top. Like Packard, I recommend spraying the panels flat as you have to worry less about drips.

[attachimg=1]

BIN sprays well as its low viscosity, but has poor gap filling properties. Plan to follow each coat with a soft scotchbrite pad to remove dust nibs and prepare a second coat. I use the magenta pads and they work great for this. I would do at least two coats of BIN as your primer base. I don't have experience with Target 6500 but it looks like a good quality, sprayable finish that can also be fortified with a catalyst hardener. I might consider that if your pieces are going to see some abuse.

You didn't mention how you're spraying it, but I recommend matching the tip size (air nozzle) with whatever Target recommends. For BIN, I usually use a 1.2mm tip and get good results.
Click to expand...

Thanks - I think I’ll use your approach for the drying rack for sure.  I also have lazy susan hardware that I meant to use to put together a turntable - will see if Tom’s rec is a superior option all things considered.  I’ve been known to spend too much time on DIY helper/gadgetry so now I’m more open to purchasing problem-solvers.  [cool]

I’ve used 6500 a bunch but not with BIN before and not with the hardener.  I thought about the hardener for this project but not sure if I need it.  I used 6500 (non pigmented) without hardener for a bath vanity that still looks as good as new after 7 years.  Will definitely be some trial and error to start these projects but the biggest area I need help with is workflow.

The last project I did with this many doors was my own kitchen with EM2000.  It look forever and there were lots of oopsies mostly because I didn’t plan the workflow and workspaces well.
 
I'm a serious hobbyist and took on a huge project about 10 years ago to combine out kitchen, living room, and dining room into one large open area. Then I built all the cabinets and probably like 70 raised panel doors and doors. This project trained me how to be efficient in my garage shop. As many mentioned, for finishing I built a drying rack out of PVC pipe that allowed me to spray 10+ doors or panels at a time. The rack breaks down easily. Can't find pics right now but basically a center frame out of 2" pipe and think 3/4" or 1" for the horizontal racks.

(if interested:https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196442-Pictures-of-Our-completed-Kitchen&highlight=rack )
 
Packard said:
I have a stage 4 sprayer HVLP, and I get better results when I spray the doors flat.

I replaced my door hinges with soft close.  It also allowed me to change the overlay to 3/4” instead of 1/2”. I also added to the height and to the handle edge, reducing the amount of face frame exposure for a more contemporary look.

You can then attach the old hinges temporarily to hang the doors vertically.

I’m happy that I changed the hinges.  It has worked out well.

I also looked into changing the drawer slides, but installation of the slides in installed cabinets was too difficult.

I used Benjamin Moore’s Advance and it was prone to drips when I sprayed.  I don’t know about your paint though.
Click to expand...

Correction:  The old hinges were 1/2” overlay and the new were 1” overlay, except in tight spaces.

I did take a lazy Susan and make a turn table.  It makes all the edges on a door easier.  I mounted painter’s pyramids.  And lifted the doors off for drying.

It makes the job easier, otherwise I have to walk around the table to see all the edges.

I just throw a couple of dowels on a flat surface and use that for the drying surface.

The dark colors in Advance cure slower and never get as hard as the light colors.  But they don’t show dirt, so a trade-off.

You are spraying the doors.  How are you painting the boxes?
 
live4ever said:
tjbnwi said:
What spray system do you have?

Door Rack Pianter to spray both sides and edges. Can't recommend them enough.
https://doorrackpainter.shop

Tom
Click to expand...

Tom, I have a Q5 w bottom feed and gravity guns.  I’ll check out the turntable you linked.  Drying racks will need to be DIY.

Also have an airless (Graco 490) that I like with the FFLP tips.  May use that for the on-site part of the refinish project, especially if I end up using Advance.
Click to expand...

Then the best bet is the drying rack others have posted. These racks do not allow access to both sides and edges.

We have a dozen moblie racks, type as others have shown .

[attachimg=1]

You may want to consider a small pressure pot for the Fuji.

Tom
 

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tjbnwi said:
You may want to consider a small pressure pot for the Fuji.

Tom
Click to expand...

Roger that.  I actually have the 2qt Fuji pot (the one that’s powered by the turbine).  Don’t remember why I originally got it but never put it to use.

Not sure if you get to hear this enough but thank you for your continued participation on this and other fora over the years.  I have learned an immense amount from discussions you’ve participated in.

Mike Goetzke said:
I'm a serious hobbyist and took on a huge project about 10 years ago to combine out kitchen, living room, and dining room into one large open area. Then I built all the cabinets and probably like 70 raised panel doors and doors. This project trained me how to be efficient in my garage shop. As many mentioned, for finishing I built a drying rack out of PVC pipe that allowed me to spray 10+ doors or panels at a time. The rack breaks down easily. Can't find pics right now but basically a center frame out of 2" pipe and think 3/4" or 1" for the horizontal racks.

(if interested:https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196442-Pictures-of-Our-completed-Kitchen&highlight=rack )
Click to expand...

What a blast from the past!  I actually remember reading your post on SMC back then…wow 10 years ago.  I was a relative newbie back then (now have graduated to “occasionally useful idiot”) and I got a lot of inspiration from your project, which I hope you’re still enjoying.

Will definitely be building a drying rack - not sure if wood dowels or pvc but now I’ve busied myself designing something that can be taken apart, configured, and transported easily. 
 
Packard said:
The dark colors in Advance cure slower and never get as hard as the light colors.  But they don’t show dirt, so a trade-off.

You are spraying the doors.  How are you painting the boxes?
Click to expand...

Thanks for all of the info.  Didn’t realize about the difference in Advance dark vs light.  But come to think of it, that could be true in my experience as well, as trim I’ve sprayed with it in white is rock hard and furniture painted dark gray is decently hard but noticeably softer than on the trim.  I just chalked it up to other variables. 

I’ll spray the face frames, fixed panels, etc on-site.  Haven’t committed to EM6500 on the refinish project so may just go with Advance off the airless (would prefer not to shoot that out of an hvlp - remember JC’s nightmares?) if I can get a decent enough finish with that setup.  Not sure if Advance on the FF/panels and 6500 on the doors will be a color match problem or if it would be close enough.  Box interiors are white mel and can stay that way. 
 
i brushed the Advance on the face frames.  Masking and protecting the rest of the room from overspray seemed formidable. 

I used 2” and 3” wide “golden Taklon” bristle brushes purchase from Michaels Hobby.  I tried various brushes and rollers and this got me near-spray on quality.  There was a learning curve with Advance to deal with the drips and runs.

Second place was the microfiber 3” wide covered foam rollers.  But remember to wet the flocking with water before using. 

For most of my boxes, I only had to deal with the face frames.  For the boxes with exposed side panels, I added bead board MDF panels which I sprayed in my shop. 

There are various videos on how to mask the boxes. 

I have the 3M hand masker (highly recommended for all painting chores).  See video below:
 
A wrench into my plans as I just discovered I can’t easily get DNA anymore in California.  Didn’t realize this as I had plenty until now and I’ve been more of a renovator than woodworker the past few years.  This calls into question using my favored primer - BIN cut in half with DNA - under the EM6500. 

So my choices are:
1) Use BIN uncut and sand and wipe before the 6500.  This is what Target recommends to do if you happen to apply a shellac primer full strength.  I’ve had the crazing problem under other a different Target finish with Sealcoat so this probably won’t go well.

2) Use Target’s WB primer which I haven’t used before and have to get shipped in. 

3) Use BM Freshstart (recommended by Target as a compatible third party option)…locally available. 

Any other options y’all might know of?
 
Additionally all I use to clean/prep cabinets is original Krud Kutter. I use it as it comes in the spray bottle.

Screen shot of a text I got from a cabinet refinisher, she would not believe me Krud Kutter is all you need until she ran into some major issues.

[attachimg=1]

Tom
 

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Hey Tom, I can get both BIN and Sealcoat…the problem is I can’t get the denatured alcohol to thin them with, and I have to be able to cut them around 1:1 to use under Target finishes. 

Cleanup not an issue as like you point out, there are good alternatives.
 
Seal Coat is a dewaxed shellac cut around 50% if I remember correctly.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Seal Coat is a dewaxed shellac cut around 50% if I remember correctly.

Tom
Click to expand...

You’re probably right about its composition, but Target/Jeff Weiss still like it cut in half under their finishes, and my personal experience (with Em2000, not 6500) is that’s a good idea.
 
If you're unable to get denatured alcohol, can you get pure grain alcohol? I've been told by a friend that it works just as well. I've not tried it yet, but he likes it.
 
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