Because of my poor eyesight, can't see with glasses or without, I use this method for aligning the guide rail fence on the MFT.
I typically set the guide rail height using 3/4" stock.
Using the Enco square that Jerry Work recommended for squaring the guide rail to the fence was hard for me because of a couple things.
Because the Enco square is ~3/8" thick it requires a spacer under the scale to raise it to the 3/4" height so it will contact the guide rail. Since the fence is ~1/2" thick, the spacer used needs to be less than the 1/2" or the square will have nothing to register against. Less than 3/8" thick, and the square will not contact the guide rail since it is set for 3/4" stock.
Now if you have just the right thickness spacer you take the square and align the fence to the guide rail by eye. Remember I said I can't see? It took me quite a long time until I was satisfied.
Now I use 1-2-3 blocks for setup. These blocks can be purchased from several different internet vendors or your local dealer. They are not expensive and are very precise. They are available at Enco.
My first step is align the guide rail parallel to the MFT holes. Qwas has convinced me. I use pins that are 20mm dia to fit the holes with a shoulder dia of 1.000". I have several of these pins with varying shoulder heights. It is not necessary to align the rail parallel to the 20mm holes but it is useful for other setups.
Insert pins in holes that will allow you anywhere from 1 or 2" gap from the fence to the pins. This will allow you to insert blocks between and then bring the guide rail flush to the blocks and pins.
You need to get a nice smooth snug slip fit between the pins and the rail. Another way of checking is to try shaking. Shouldn't hear any noise or feel any slop.
Now to square the fence to the rail. Remove the pins, place square on table and use blocks between the square and the guide rail. Rotate/pivot the fence to get square to rail. Use same checks as before to feel for square instead of looking to see if square is touching everywhere.
This is another view of squaring.
And this is the result. The best I can see and feel. Piece was cut using the 4/5 cut method.
Since taking the pictures, I have reversed the rail to the opposite side of the MFT so I am pushing into the fence.
Using this method has reduced my time setting up and checking drastically. I can now square the fence in a couple minutes at most.
I typically set the guide rail height using 3/4" stock.
Using the Enco square that Jerry Work recommended for squaring the guide rail to the fence was hard for me because of a couple things.
Because the Enco square is ~3/8" thick it requires a spacer under the scale to raise it to the 3/4" height so it will contact the guide rail. Since the fence is ~1/2" thick, the spacer used needs to be less than the 1/2" or the square will have nothing to register against. Less than 3/8" thick, and the square will not contact the guide rail since it is set for 3/4" stock.
Now if you have just the right thickness spacer you take the square and align the fence to the guide rail by eye. Remember I said I can't see? It took me quite a long time until I was satisfied.
Now I use 1-2-3 blocks for setup. These blocks can be purchased from several different internet vendors or your local dealer. They are not expensive and are very precise. They are available at Enco.
My first step is align the guide rail parallel to the MFT holes. Qwas has convinced me. I use pins that are 20mm dia to fit the holes with a shoulder dia of 1.000". I have several of these pins with varying shoulder heights. It is not necessary to align the rail parallel to the 20mm holes but it is useful for other setups.
Insert pins in holes that will allow you anywhere from 1 or 2" gap from the fence to the pins. This will allow you to insert blocks between and then bring the guide rail flush to the blocks and pins.
You need to get a nice smooth snug slip fit between the pins and the rail. Another way of checking is to try shaking. Shouldn't hear any noise or feel any slop.
Now to square the fence to the rail. Remove the pins, place square on table and use blocks between the square and the guide rail. Rotate/pivot the fence to get square to rail. Use same checks as before to feel for square instead of looking to see if square is touching everywhere.
This is another view of squaring.
And this is the result. The best I can see and feel. Piece was cut using the 4/5 cut method.
Since taking the pictures, I have reversed the rail to the opposite side of the MFT so I am pushing into the fence.
Using this method has reduced my time setting up and checking drastically. I can now square the fence in a couple minutes at most.
).
