Step stool

[mouppe]

Goodbye TS 55. You served me well for three years. But now you have a new home and I have to wait six weeks for my TS 55R. I managed to squeeze in one last project with my TS and turned out a step stool in a couple of days. Lots of hand tool work, a few dovetails etc. It's a really satisfying project because you can make something appealing from just one small board.

It's made from Peruvian walnut which is a delight to work and not very expensive. Machines and planes very easily, although if you go against the grain the tearout can be wicked.

The finish is a very simple couple of coats of Tried and True Varnish oil, rubbed out with a white vlies pad on the rotex, and a light coat of wax on all the parts apart from the steps.

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[ScotF]

Beautiful work, Richard.  Any close ups of the joinery?  Great craftsmanship on you work as I am used to seeing.

Scot

 

[Mac]

This is a lovely piece Richard; I've come to really like walnut lately. That and cherry are my preferred woods. You're a real craftsman.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[festoolviking]

Nice work.

I guess your next project is to put a door in, so you don't have to climb thru that window. [scratch chin] (joke)

Festoolviking

 

[GhostFist]

Another beautiful little project Richard. You have "the gift"

 

[honeydoman]

Nice stool. ! 

 

[lumbajac]

Very nice work Richard - I concur with ScotF... would love to see more pictures if you have.

I admit I know very little about finishing - need to read up on it or talk/work with some expert or something.  Can you or anyone else explain the benefits of a wipe on varnish?  I use Waterlox on nearly everything just because it was recommended and I like how it looks, applies, and the fact it's repairable (though smells a lot).  Is that pretty much a wipe on varnish - any other benefits?

And why wax - is that for some kind of aesthetic appeal or surface protection or...?

Anyone have a book or website or something explaining different finishing techniqurpes they'd recommend?

Thanks

 

[mouppe]

Thanks everyone- very kind comments.

I took some more photos just now with some close-ups of the joinery.

This is a very simple piece but the exposed nature of the piece will show up any mistakes or sloppy craftsmanship, so it has to be made carefully. It's a one-board project- I had a 13"-wide piece of walnut with a huge hole and defect in the middle, so it was perfect for this piece. You can see the remains of the defect at the back of the bottom step in this picture.

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There are only seven components. The two sides, the two steps and the three stretchers. The steps and the stretchers are cut at the same time to make sure they are of equal length. I cut mine 1/8" long and plane them to their exact dimensions when everything is assembled. Everything is dovetailed apart from the two arched stretchers at the front.

Once the sides and steps are dovetailed and in place, the front arched stretchers are fitted. I actually forgot to glue the dovetails on the steps and glued the stretchers in place before remembering, but the dovetails are very tight so it should be ok! Time will tell.

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The back stretcher is dovetailed at the top edge to keep the sides from moving apart. Since the bottom edge is curved it acts like a wedge as well.

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I took real care to chamfer the edges well. My preferred method is to use a spokeshave on the long edges as I find it easier to balance than a block plane. You can achieve really straight clean edges that don't vary in width along their length. I use the Veritas spokeshave- it's a superb tool.

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[mouppe]

Lumbajac,

I don't know much about wipe-on varnishes other than the Minwax oil-based wipe-on poly which I used on my bookcase recently. I needed something easy, quick, and forgiving that would work for a large area and provide a little more protection than the finishes I usually use.

Tried and True Varnish oil is what I used here but it's not like modern varnishes. Takes a bit longer to cure than other oils but it's completely non-toxic and I've got used to using it. You have to work it in with some elbow grease- one reason it doesn't lend itself to large projects- and it hardens over time. I can also bring the piece home and let it finish curing in the warm house instead of the cold dusty workshop to speed up the curing process.

Normally I use shellac (for a French polish or as an undercoat for something else) or oil. It depends on the piece. This walnut looks awesome with an oil finish.

I tend to use wax on everything. Helps keep the dust off, feels great and smells good. The cleaner also knows that she can use wax on anything, rather than Pledge etc which might affect other finishes differently.

I took out Bob Flexner's book from the library but it was hard to digest so much info. I prefer to keep a record of every piece I make with its finishing schedule so that I can look up the "recipe" later on. I note what grit I sanded to, how long I waited between coats, etc. Also helps to know what went wrong for the next time!

 

[jeep jake]

did you dovetail it by hand?

 

[mouppe]

Yes.

 

[ScotF]

Beautiful work!!  Those dovetail joints are super tight - awesome job!! 

Scot

 

[jacko9]

Great job Richard I always appreciate a complete project materialize out of a simple wood board, your very talented.

 

[skids]

Very nice..Love the Dovetails.

 

[tbellemare]

It's quite a piece, as usual, Richard.

I don't think I could bring myself to step on it.

Tom

 

[bullieblue]

Those are some nice hand cut dove tails.

Did Festool come out with a new Japanese Dozuli dovetail saw?  [wink]