T55 and fuses

Foghat

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Joined
Mar 17, 2008
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53
HI everyone,
I got out my T55 saw tonight to cut and square the edge of a butcher block workbench I inherited. It's pretty hardwood and was from an old high school shop. It's almost 2" thick. I hooked up my saw to the rail, and the vacuum and set the blade just below the bottom of the wood.
I started to cut, and half way across it blew a fuse. It also spewed sawdust all over the place. The vac was working, but I don't know why it blew a fuse.
I had it on speed 6, and the same thing happened when I cut across the other end.
I have to rip both sides, so I'm checking in to see what I might be doing wrong.
thanks,
Foghat
 
Foghat said:
HI everyone,
I got out my T55 saw tonight to cut and square the edge of a butcher block workbench I inherited. It's pretty hardwood and was from an old high school shop. It's almost 2" thick. I hooked up my saw to the rail, and the vacuum and set the blade just below the bottom of the wood.
I started to cut, and half way across it blew a fuse. It also spewed sawdust all over the place. The vac was working, but I don't know why it blew a fuse.
I had it on speed 6, and the same thing happened when I cut across the other end.
I have to rip both sides, so I'm checking in to see what I might be doing wrong.
thanks,
Foghat

You cant cut 2" thick hardwood with a TS 55 and expect to work very well. That thing is a dog. I wouldn't cut more than 3/4" ply per pass with it.

You may have to put the saw and vac on two different circuits and turn on the vac manually first, then fire up the saw to get through that hardwood.
 
Dovetail65 said:
Foghat said:
HI everyone,
I got out my T55 saw tonight to cut and square the edge of a butcher block workbench I inherited. It's pretty hardwood and was from an old high school shop. It's almost 2" thick. I hooked up my saw to the rail, and the vacuum and set the blade just below the bottom of the wood.
I started to cut, and half way across it blew a fuse. It also spewed sawdust all over the place. The vac was working, but I don't know why it blew a fuse.
I had it on speed 6, and the same thing happened when I cut across the other end.
I have to rip both sides, so I'm checking in to see what I might be doing wrong.
thanks,
Foghat

You cant cut 2" thick hardwood with a TS 55 and expect to work very well. That thing is a dog. I wouldn't cut more than 3/4" ply per pass with it.

You may have to put the saw and vac on two different circuits and turn on the vac manually first, then fire up the saw to get through that hardwood.


Power Consumption Math......


While I don't know which dust extractor you are using, or the size circuit you are plugged into, for the sake of the discussion, I am assuming you are on a 15amp circuit, using the CT26, with your suction set closer to high than low.

CT26  350-1200 watts / 2.9-10 amps
TS55  1200 watts / 10amps

As you can see, based on the level of suction you are using with your CT26, you can exceed 15amps very quickly.
 
[member=3617]Foghat[/member] how dissapointing for you.
I would look at your electrical circuits or the blade you are using as the T55 is/should be capable of this task. Right blade, cleaned and changed for a specific task.

In image one,  my TS55 is doing what you aim to do, in this case the timber is a mix of Australian Eucalyptuses Hardwoods and the cut was then the base for bread boarding.  Other images show ripping laminated Blackwood and the trimmed edge of a top made from recycled Merbu decking. All hardwoods.


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thanks everyone. I knew I'd get some answers.
My vac is the reliable CT 26. So that is likely why I'm blowing the fuse. I'll try setting it to a lower setting.
The blade is the one the T55 came with and has seen very little use, so it's like new and quiet sharp.
I think what I'm cutting through is oak. If I go slowly, it gets through it.
Glad to know it should be able to do the job. I'll see if I can use a thick cord and run it from another outlet/circuit as well.
Thanks for the tips.
 
I've ripped 6/4 Brazilian cherry with my TS 55, using a standard 28 tooth blade, and without burning the wood, so I'm with [member=60452]McNally Family[/member] & [member=19746]Untidy Shop[/member] on this one. Try running the saw and vac on 2 different circuits, that will probably take care of the issue. In my shop in the basement, I've run 2 different circuits throughout, using black and white GFCI's to differentiate the 2 circuits. Makes it really easy to see where you can have possible circuit overloading issues, and then you simply need to place the plugs in different outlets to even out the current draw.

You're not having a problem by burning the wood, (which would suggest underpowered saw, dull blade or dirty blade), you're having a problem with running two high amperage machines that are running on the same amperage starved circuit.

 
I regularly use my DeWalt track saws that draws a few more amps than the 55 hooked to my Rigid shop vac on the same 20 amp circuit without issue.  I also use my 15A table saw the same way.  The auto-on switch I use says it stagers the startup to avoid tripping the circuit and it seems to work.  The combined load of the two devices is well over 20A when I am using a the table saw and a bit over with the track saw.  I've only tripped the breaker once in a particularly deep cut on the table saw. 

I used to try and use a different 15A draw table saw on a 15A circuit and was tripping the breaker a lot.  A 20 amp circuit is much better in the shop.
 
Michael Kellough said:
The comments on overloading a circuit are good but the problem here is the fine tooth blade which is inappropriate for solid stock that thick. The standard or combination blade is what should be used in this case.

This is especially true when you do the rip cuts you are planning.

Seth
 
Others have offered their thoughts on the power issues, but if you were ripping there is a chance that your hose is clogged with ribbons of wood.  Check the suction at the machine without the hose and then while running attach the hose.  If the vac really snatches the hose towards it and if the suction at the tool end of the hose is not good then you have a clog.  If everything is good there then you need to remove the blade and blade guard and check if there is a blockage between tool and the hose.

Peter
 
Hi guys,
Thanks for your help. I used a different circuit which helped. Also likely the blade also made a difference. I only have the one it came with and it was very slow going on the rip cuts. I will look into another blade for doing those.
I also noticed that if I stopped for a moment while moving my feet, the blade left a slight arc on the wood and then moved on. I had to just touch it with the sander to smooth it out.
I'll look into all these things for future work.
Great to have the help here. Thanks again.
 
[size=6pt]
Foghat said:
Hi guys,
Thanks for your - - -
I also noticed that if I stopped for a moment while moving my feet, the blade left a slight arc on the wood and then moved on. I had to just touch it with the sander to smooth it out.
[size=13pt]
[member=3617]Foghat[/member] , I am glad things are starting to work out for you. For ripping I suggest you get the Panther blade. As to the arc mark, this can happen, but it can be minimised if the saw is 'adjusted' to the rail using the turn nobs on the base. See [Item 1-1] in the manual tool illustration.
 
Foghat said:
I also noticed that if I stopped for a moment while moving my feet, the blade left a slight arc on the wood and then moved on.

Panther...+1

The arc is similar to using a table saw, when you stop the board and then reposition your hands to finish the cut. It's just technique & practice and keeping a nice continuous movement with the TS 55. Also as Untidy mentioned, tweak the adjustment knob for the fit of the saw to the rail. Glad things are working out. [big grin]
 
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