Table leg pocket experiment

Crazyraceguy

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This is one I have been over thinking for a while. I'm still not totally settled on it, but I figured I might as well just cut it into the outermost faces and see how it looks. My though process is to taper the inside face, to take some of the weight away from the front view. I have wrestled with the tapered pocket idea, possibly on two sides, which would eliminate the taper. I think I'm just going to paint the legs and finish it. If I decide different later, I can do a version 2. Thoughts? opinions?
 

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I like it as is, the only possible criticism I would give is I think the taper would benefit from a little more of the leg showing at the base, probably stopping the taper about 15mm from the bottom edge.

In fact I'd make the height of the untouched part at the bottom the width of the taper divided by 1.618.

Aside from that slight criticism it looks great, I love anything Greene & Greene style.
 
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Looks nice, but likely a dirt trap.

If I were to add a decorative detail I think I would make it higher up on the legs. Or, turn it around so the pocket is at the top and it is open at the bottom.
 
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I ended up going all the way around with them. It kind of looks tapered and not tapered at the same time.
As a prototype, I think it works. If I ever do it again, I think I would go higher and deeper too.
I got the legs glued to the cross piece, but not to the top yet. I'm going to leave that until after it is painted.
The shadows show more than I thought they would, but it is upside down. That will probably change, when flipped over.
 

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I really like this…I keep picturing it tapering to nothing and just feathering into the leg
Thanks for the addition to my memory bank
I actually thought of that, leaving a completely open hole at the bottom, but I think it would take a longer leg. This little table is pretty short, going in a specific location. It would probably need to be thicker too. Those straight ridges are only 3/16" (5mm) so, not very strong. Maybe 1/4" or more? So, the leg would need to be thicker, to keep the proportions similar. (it's1 3/8" now). Something stronger than Poplar might help too.

I got the legs primed today, no pics yet.
 
Or you could start the taper narrower at the bottom and increase the width slightly as you go higher?

I think that would be aesthetically pleasing without ruining any proportions.
 
My takes, order of priority:
- this design screams for some proper hardwood
- start the pocket smoothly, no visible 'dip' at the top
- make the corner "pylons" thicker/bigger, about 3/8"
- make the bottom "platform" a bit higher for strength, 3/4" sounds about right, alternatively, use a bit wider 3/8" thick plywood "boot" screwed into "pylons" instead of relying on fragile cross-grain wood
- make the pockets deeper, so the "central pylon" is about the same dimension as the corner "pylons"
- as you mentioned: start the pocket higher up, in that case consider "partially-interrupting" the pocket about 5" from the ground to create a routed "cross-brace" that would stabilise the structure and improve its resistance to kicks.

In either case, do a prototype leg several times .. before going for an actual application. There is lots of mechanical engineering including testing for kick resistance beyond just the looks such a design asks for to be more than an exhibition piece. Yes, I do like the concept, I can see it even being a design signature - something one would officially patent/register/trademark.

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This calls for a model and 3D printing some prototypes.
 
@mino I'm right there with you. These legs are a little too small for this treatment.
The point of the thin platform was uniformity. It does indeed weaken the foot, but it is also even/equal.
Deeper would be better, I'm sure, but not with the thin bottom rim. The whole leg needs to be bigger for that, IMO.
Real hardwood, for sure, but not until I work it out more. I'm thinking Cherry myself?

I think I'm going to do another single leg, to open up some of these ideas. Thanks to all
 
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