Kevinculle:
I also use my bandsaw a lot, but rarely if ever for ripping stock--I'm always a little puzzled by people who have this workflow, because:
- My bandsaw table (17" bandsaw) is pretty tiny, compared to my TS + even with the small outfeed table I currently have. Supporting long stock to rip on the bandsaw means I need to set up both infeed and outfeed support.
-Nice as my BS is, it can't rip with the precision and finish as even a moderately decent ripping blade on a moderately decent TS can. I have a 1" carbide tooth blade on it right now; have also used a couple of woodslicers, and both are nice. But it doesn't leave a jointed edge like my TS can, even with a Freud Diablo TK ripping blade.
There's a reason I keep a resaw blade on my bandsaw, since that's what I used it for, but not for ripping. Which brings me to another point: what a PITA changing blades on a band saw is. Compared to any other kind of power tool. Even with practice the finicky nature of the guide adjustment to get it right is horrible. Enough that my dream is to have a big dedicated resaw BS and a little one with a curvy-cutting blade on it. If you buy the info in most "how to bandsaw" books, you almost need to change the blade with every setup (consider how many teeth per inch of wood thickness you are supposed to follow, for example).
In the past (PM 66 days, pre-SawStop days), I would occasionally rip potentially dangerous boards on the BS and then mill them to final dimension on the jointer or else just run the edge on the TS. Because the PM--even with the Biesemeyer splitter that was fitted--was a little bit scary about kickback or binding uncooperative wood. Some boards I'd even drag out the TS55 and my foam panels and cut it on the floor--perfectly safe if awkward ripping, say, a 6" wide by 7' long board with the track saw (need to support the rail, keep the rail from moving, line up the rail on the cut, etc).
So to the original OP, with a decent TS (including a t-square fence and ok blade) you are never more than a few seconds away from a perfectly dimensioned, no-trial-cut-necessary, no-jigs-needed, ready-to-glue-up cut any time. Walk to saw, slide fence to where cursor matches desired cut, feed wood through saw. Done. And if you want to cut mitered sides on little box parts (and groove them for the box bottom), short of good miter box and hand saw (plus router plane), I don't know any other way to do it.
Bottom line for the OP is I think different people get comfortable with different tools, partly based on what kind of projects they do, and just like software developers tend to revert to programming languages and tools they are familiar with--regardless of whether that language is best for a given problem--people reach for the tool they are most comfortable with.
