Tablesaw blade recommendation

[JonathanJung]

For those of you using the tablesaw for crosscutting, what blade would you recommend for this type of cut?

I'm needing to cut dead-flat crosscuts on the tablesaw of hardwoods utilizing sleds for awkward angles - see photo. These cuts will be the joining cut for chair/table parts, so the cut must be accurate and ready to glue.

Requirements:
10" .126 kerf
controlled cutting
high precision cut

Not as important are tearout and cut speed

The blade I used here is an Amana 610600c, 10deg, 60t, ATB. As shown, it does really flat! The cut is a bit scratchy though. For reference, I've got a -3 hook 100t Tenryu on the 12" miter saw that I use for those cuts that I can't have any wobble in the cut and I don't want the blade pulling on the material. I'm wanting something similar for the tablesaw.

I'm looking for those of you with a lot of experience making these types of cuts.

Thanks!

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[CeeJay]

Jonathan, I use the same 10” Amana blade as a general purpose blade.

For accurate crosscuts I use an 80T CMT ATB blade (I think it’s this one): 274:080:10M

I also have an 80T ATB Ridge Carbide blade which I really like. I’d recommend both.

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[Birdhunter]

I get near perfect cuts with the Forrest Woodworker II on a 3HP SawStop Industrial. I did have to go the Forrest rip blade ripping some gnarly figured 6 quarter walnut. I have their fine cut blade I use for cross cutting Baltic Birch. Very slick.

Forrest does a nice sharpening service. They inspect, repair, and sharpen.

 

[JonathanJung]

Jonathan, I use the same 10” Amana blade as a general purpose blade.

For accurate crosscuts I use an 80T CMT ATB blade (I think it’s this one): 274:080:10M

I also have an 80T ATB Ridge Carbide blade which I really like. I’d recommend both.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked at Ridge, but the only 10" 80t I see is .115 kerf -https://ridgecarbidetool.com/collec...-30deg-atb-5-hk-087-115-melacrafter-saw-blade

I'll look at the CMT.

I get near perfect cuts with the Forrest Woodworker II on a 3HP SawStop Industrial. I did have to go the Forrest rip blade ripping some gnarly figured 6 quarter walnut. I have their fine cut blade I use for cross cutting Baltic Birch. Very slick.

Forrest does a nice sharpening service. They inspect, repair, and sharpen.

I just sold my 40t Forrest WWII since it didn't perform well enough.

Anyone with experience on a Amana 80t, or others? I find it hard getting part #s for manufacturers like Leitz, FS Tool, etc.

 

[rst]

I use Amana and Freud industrial blades and have great success with those.

 

[mkasdin]

I use Amana and Freud industrial blades and have great success with those.

I use a Freud Premier Fusion on my $500 Bosch portable jSS. I the Freud premier fusion is knock off of the Forrest WWII blade. I use the combo blade I also have a Freud full kerf glue ready ripping blade FTG. I bought a Forrest blade stiffener so you might want to invest in that.

 

[Alanbach]

For the cuts described I would use my Forrest Duraline Hi-AT 80 tooth blade. It is designed for super smooth cuts in plywood and melamine as well as very smooth fine crosscuts in hardwoods. I also own Forrest’s Chopmaster blade which normally lives on my SCMS but I have moved it over to the table saw once or twice over the years. Either of these blades would do this job beautifully as long as they are sharp and clean.

 

[kevinculle]

If you don't get adequate cut quality with a Forrest WWII I suspect that either the blade needs sharpening or there are alignment issues with your saw or fixturing.  Forrest provides excellent sharpening service at a reasonable price and turnaround is good.  I've used one for decades in a hobbyist shop and sent it in for sharpening a year or two ago...it made a big difference.

 

[Packard]

I use Amana and Freud industrial blades and have great success with those.

I use a Freud Premier Fusion on my $500 Bosch portable jSS. I the Freud premier fusion is knock off of the Forrest WWII blade. I use the combo blade I also have a Freud full kerf glue ready ripping blade FTG. I bought a Forrest blade stiffener so you might want to invest in that.

I also moved to the Freud Fusion, less than $90.00 on Amazon.com.  It was my very first combination blade.  It surprisingly did better than both my dedicated rip blade and dedicated crosscut blade.  I do have one other blade with a negative hook angle which I bought for my radial arm saw, and that does better on melamine laminated particleboard than does the Freud.

The word was that getting it sharpened was an issue.  I have not yet had to do that.  I did go online a few minutes ago and I see that Freud is handling the sharpening in-house now with a mail-in service, so I would assume that the sharpening issue is resolved.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JNTG76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[AnthonyE]

I've had great luck with Infinity Tools table saw blades.  Their 80 tooth crosscut blade is amazing for clean crosscuts and is much cheaper alternative to the Forrest line.  But the Forrest blades are no doubt amazing in every way, just a bit spendy.

 

[mkasdin]

I also moved to the Freud Fusion, less than $90.00 on Amazon.com.  It was my very first combination blade.  It surprisingly did better than both my dedicated rip blade and dedicated crosscut blade.  I do have one other blade with a negative hook angle which I bought for my radial arm saw, and that does better on melamine laminated particleboard than does the Freud.

The word was that getting it sharpened was an issue.  I have not yet had to do that.  I did go online a few minutes ago and I see that Freud is handling the sharpening in-house now with a mail-in service, so I would assume that the sharpening issue is resolved.

Forrest will sharpen Freud blades if you send them in, just not sure of the price?

 

[JonathanJung]

Update:

I got in an Amana 80t "melamine" hi-atb .126 and a FS Tool 80t hi-atb .115 XL4000. Surprisingly, the thinner kerf on the FS blade seems to be fine. Also, the FS blade is notable quieter and leaves almost no saw marks, unlike the Amana.