Thick Edge Banding - how to apply?

[sakurama]

I am building my kitchen cabinets now and discovered that you can get edge banding in 1-3mm which I thought would be a nicer detail for finishing the edges than the traditional edge banding tape. The trouble is that it's only made for the commercial machines that apply hot glue and then the banding. How would one (namely me) go about putting this on if I didn't have a commercial machine? I tried ripping some 5mm walnut strips and glueing, pinning and clamping them to my drawers and it was fine but it took a really long time.

What other options are there for me?

Thanks,

Gregor

 

[Wooden Lungs]

I have used solid edging on veneered boards that was just taped with wide 50mm masking tape and PVA then when set I just used a router bit with a bearing attachment then sanded. Quick and good results. Only for wood edging mind!! I watched a video of a Japanese master several weeks back and for his solid edging say 6mm thick he just used heavy duty string, wrapping it around close together very quickly. It worked really well and didn't leave tape residue! I have clamped before but it is slow and tedious.
Takes a couple of trial runs with masking tape but I have found it invaluable. Must get myself some string though and experiment. As I said theses methods are for solid edging only. I don't like to use pins etc because it is an inferior finish.If it has glue already on the band then use an iron.
You can get handheld end and side trimmers from Axminster. It does take a few goes though so practice on some scrap. Too much heat and the glue will run out the side, not enough and the edging will lift. I have a special ceramic iron in my modest shop for this purpose.
If in doubt just ask the supplier what the approved method is. If you use bare MDF you can get a paintable iron on edge now that works fantastic no more sealing and sanding etc!

 

[JerrySats]

I make my own edging and glue it on with wood glue and a combination of clamps , cauls or tape .  I like titebond trim and molding glue for this , it doesn't run like the thinner glues . I don't know where your located so it might not be available where you are .

 

[tjbnwi]

You should undercut the substrate first. The moisture in the glue causes the core to swell. I use the Collins Ply Prep bits;

http://www.collinstool.com/base.php?page=collins_ply_prep.htm

TB II sets pretty quickly. I just tape it on, let the glue set then trim with the MFK 700.

Tom

 

[tiralie]

You could use an edge banding bit but it won't really save you any time.
Tim

 

[Guilliaume woodworks]

In the past I have taken material to a shop with edge banding machine. It's affordable and is a huge time saver. I cut doors and drawer fronts to size , wrap up really good so not to damage edges, and deliver to edge bander. If it's ply material for cab carcasses, I give them 8' rips for uppers and lowers to edge band. Then crosscut after I get them back. It's easier,cheaper, and less likely to get damaged if in longer length. Basically ..just outsource it...and use your time for more important tasks.

 

[Ben H]

Strips of 1" blue painters tape works fine for me.  Put a strip every 6-8 inches or so. 

 

[Jalvis]

Best to outsource for the commercial look.

Although for a solid wood edge I use Jorgensen 3-way spring edge clamps #3262 & #3261.  Then flush trim with a Lipping Planer.  Thats something you won't see unless its a small custom shop.

 

[sakurama]

Best to outsource for the commercial look.

Although for a solid wood edge I use Jorgensen 3-way spring edge clamps #3262 & #3261.  Then flush trim with a Lipping Planer.  Thats something you won't see unless its a small custom shop.

Thanks for the replies!

Wow, I'm not used to being stumped by the internet but these are kinda hard to find. Cool clamp though.

I like the tape idea. I'll do a test and see how it works. What about Fastcap adhesive? The kind that's got two release papers for any material?

Gregor

 

[rjwz28]

This is how I did mine.  I did over 30 doors and drawer fronts this way with no problem.  The doors were 3/4" maple ply and I made edging out of solid maple 1/4" thick.  I just glued them with Titebond III and taped them with blue painter's tape.  Worked great without any fancy clamps.  The extra tape running along the edge is just to make the glue cleanup easier.

Rob

 

[polarsea1]

Has anyone used a pinner to hold 3mm wood edge banding on while PVA glue sets? I wonder if it would give a ripple effect?  I'll be painting the cabinets so the holes wouldn't show.

Second option is to try taping it down, I'll experiment when I get the banding but comments would be appreciated.

Thanks, Bill

 

[Roseland]

For cleaning up the edges, I'd strongly recommend the OF1010 and its edging accessories, UP-OF (the edging plate), WA-OF (the arm) and SF-OF (the chip guard).  Brice did a nice review of them here:
http://greenanddarkblue.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/festools-edge-routing-accessories.html
It was for just this reason I got my OF1010.  I already had an OF1400, but it's too heavy to wield around on its side, and there isn't a compatible chip guard for it.  Use a bottom-bearing trim bit and you will get perfect results every time.

Good luck,

Andrew

 

[craig feuerzeig]

I would recommend this thread.  [thumbs up]

 

[Sparktrician]

Other options would include the Burgess Edge router bit set as well as these bits from Amana. 

 

[polarsea1]

I had an OF1010 but built a base for a Bosch Colt that flush trims equally well. 

Bill - who likes Festool but is not married to it.  ;D

 

[basswood]

Another trick to edge banding is to iron the surface and iron on the banding. This expands the gases in the cellular structure of the wood. As the wood cools and the gases contract, a micro-scale vacuum is created sucking the surfaces of the edge banding and the substrate together.

This just adds "clamping" pressure (actually by using atmospheric pressure as your clamp). Still good to tape or use conventional clamps. The ironing helps between the clamps and generally provides added insurance. Longer open time PVA glues are recommended for this technique.

 

[polarsea1]

Another trick to edge banding is to iron the surface and iron on the banding. This expands the gases in the cellular structure of the wood. As the wood cools and the gases contract, a micro-scale vacuum is created sucking the surfaces of the edge banding and the substrate together.

This just adds "clamping" pressure (actually by using atmospheric pressure as your clamp). Still good to tape or use conventional clamps. The ironing helps between the clamps and generally provides added insurance. Longer open time PVA glues are recommended for this technique.

That sounds like a great idea. I also found an old thread on FWW Knots that shows a jig that uses a pressurized flat garden hose (with air) to clamp the banding.

Bill