Thoughts on the FSK 420 or FSK 670

dheisner

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Dec 10, 2007
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After waiting for months, my HKC 55 came today with the FSK 250 rail set.  I don't do this for a living, but do a lot of volunteer work, mostly building and repairing wheelchair ramps and decks.  I also do lots of regular old woodworking projects. 

What frequently happens is that I get out on the site and run into situations where I go, "Gee, I wish I had invested in that longer rail."  My question for you guys is how often do you use the longer rails on the HKC 55.  BTW, I already own the TS75 and have plenty of rails for it.

Thoughts on what to buy next the FSK 420, the FSK 670, or neither?

Enquiring minds want to know.
 
I only have the 420 rail myself.  I used it to trim some 11" hardwood shelving stock and it worked rather well.

I also used it as a stand-in for a compound miter saw to scarf joint some 1x4 trim and to put a bevel on some other trim.  I feel like the 420 rail is a little longer and heavier than I would want if I was carving up 2x4s all day long, but I haven't used (or even seen in person) a 250 rail to know for sure.

I believe that the 250 rail can only miter in one direction while the 420 and 670 can miter in both directions, but now I can't find where I read that.

There's some more information in this article that states that the 420 is just long enough to do a 45 degree miter in a 2x12 (plus some other information about the different rails):
https://www.protoolreviews.com/tools/power/cordless/saws-cordless/festool-hk-55-carpentry-saw/27201/

 
Not knowing if you have boards of 600mm width over there. We do in Europe, and I’ve got all three FSK’s. The 670 did just clear the 600mm panel in 33° mitres for wall panels cut to the roof angle. (That said, the panels are a bit wider to accommodate tongue and groove)
None miter saw would have done this, and the joy and ease the HKC brought to this job was fantastic.

Since you have the lovely 250, and occasionally would use a longer one, why not the 670?
I got my 420 as part of a kit with the saw, and my 250 are used very often, then occasionally the 670. The 420 is still unused.
 
I also only have the 420, since it came with the saw. I have been eyeing the 250, but do not use the saw often enough to justify the purchase.

For longer cuts I usually use the 800/1400 rail from the TS.
But if you run into the issues more often, I would rather go long, to have the capacity.
I would guess your ramps are wider than what the 420 can cut?!
 
I have both the 250 and the 420.
I use the 250 for 95% of my cuts. When I first got the saw when they first came out.  I wanted all three rails. About two years ago I decided to put the long rail on the bottom of my need to purchase list.
I’m in the trades.
Get the 420.
Hope this helps

 
I used mine yesterday to cut full dimension 2x6 rafter tails on a large trellis. I’ve only got the 250 rail. At 34 degrees the rail just cleared the tops of the rafter by an inch or so, but the saw completed the cuts perfectly. I don’t have a 420 rail, but I find the 250 fulfills all of my needs and in a small enough package that I can comfortably maneuver around, even on ladders and scaffolding. My primary use of the saw is framing, and I’m primarily working with 2X4, 2x6 and 2x8 lumber. I’d probably not reach for it as much if I only had the 420 rail, as I’d find the added length an impediment. I do have an extra 1400 FS rail that permanently has a rail square attached that I carry for use with the HK if I need to cut plywood.

The 250 does miters in BOTH directions, not just one. The “spring back” function can sometimes be fickle, and I find I often just pull the saw back to the start position manually.

It’s a marvelous tool. If I only had one rail, I’d definitely make it the 250. You can always use your FS rails when you need to cut something longer.
 
I have the 420. The FSK’s useful at the lumberyard and construction work — places you don’t / cannot have a table. Or for rough work where you need a circular saw — and want to use it roughly — but reduce risk.

For example, I broke down an old tall kitchen unit into smaller bits for disposal with the FSK; no way could I have used a table; no way would I have used the saw alone with no rail (too many variables — angles/materials/risk of hitting metal — or the unit breaking apart while I cut it).

For anything longer, I’d use an ordinary rail. But it really depends what you want to do with it.

I have an outstanding question as to the interchangeability of rails, however. That is, do the splinter guard cuts arrive in the same place once the saws are tightened on the rail? This is relevant to your case of possibly using the HKC55 and the TS75 on the same rail.
 
I have and use all three lengths.  They are great for stair layouts, three set angles and away you go.
 
A hobbyist, having 250, I would go 670, accepting the inconvenience of a longer one for full-range capability in less tools.

For professional use, if you have no use case for significantly wider capacity of the 670, the 420 would be the obvious choice. But then you would not ask I presume ...

The 420 is "the bigger 250" while the 670 is "the big one" and is not really geared for one-handed work on a scaffold..
 
ElectricFeet said:
I have an outstanding question as to the interchangeability of rails, however. That is, do the splinter guard cuts arrive in the same place once the saws are tightened on the rail? This is relevant to your case of possibly using the HKC55 and the TS75 on the same rail.

You need to adjust your saws to have the same blade-distance.
This is quite easy to do and allows you to share the rails across all saws with no impact on the splinter guard.

I would say it took me less than 30mins to adjust the saws (HKC55, TS55) and I really took my time to make it extra exact. [emoji41]
 
The 420 will do most of what you may need. I purchased the 670 to make gable cuts in 12" wide lap siding.
 
I have the 420 and then for the occasional bigger cuts I use the normal FS 1400 rails.
Thats working as a full time carpenter and that saw is out of the van being used almost every day.

I don't feel the nedd tor the 670 and think its a bit numb an object to be picking up all the time with a rail longer than 420mm of cut.
Nor do I care about buying the 250 although for the odd smaller timbers it would be a lot lighter. Mind I often gang cut my 4x2's if I have a load to cut and the 420 rail is good for that.
 
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