Tips for joining wainscoting type panels on outside mitered corner

[ear3]

So one of the elements of the project I start next week will involve some wall paneling, basically a wainscoting type design I'll make out of individual panels (only three feet high from floor).  I haven't seen the space yet, but word is I might have to wrap some of the paneling around a corner.  Now if this were someone's house, I would do dominoes and glue and careful clamping to get it right and tight and permanent.  But this is actually going to be a film set, that then has to be removed and reinstalled in a museum/gallery space.  Maybe the answer is just to use some extra moulding to cover up these sorts of areas, but I was wondering whether there might be a way to still do a mitered outside corner that can be reassembled later.  Although I've never used it for wood joinery, is something like hot glue a viable option -- strong enough to hold a joint that no one is going to be stressing/knocking into, but when I bang it with a hammer it will come undone -- and then I can clean/sand it off afterwards before reassembling?  Maybe even throw in a few dominoes for alignment (but not glue them)?  Any thoughts?

 

[Linbro]

Can you make up the corners as one piece, ie. glue the mitres, and join the panelling elsewhere?

 

[Bohdan]

Assemble all of the panelling using dominos for alignment and knock down fittings to hold it together. The KD fittings enable you to disassemble the structure and relocate it easily. If you have an LR23 kit the fittings are real easy to install.

 

[ear3]

I had considered that -- I'll know if I can do it once I see the space, thanks.

Can you make up the corners as one piece, ie. glue the mitres, and join the panelling elsewhere?

 

[ear3]

I hadn't even considered that option (never used them before), but that might be a really slick way to go -- but where would the fittings be located on the panels, along the edge?

Assemble all of the panelling using dominos for alignment and knock down fittings to hold it together. The KD fittings enable you to disassemble the structure and relocate it easily. If you have an LR23 kit the fittings are real easy to install.

 

[rizzoa13]

Another option could be to use a lock miter along the edge and slip it in. It's eventually open up without glue but I'd bet it would be right for you in the meantime.

 

[Brent Taylor]

Edward,  why don't you make up some corner posts. I used to do it all the time.  I would build a one or two plank wide inside or outside post with a groove on both mating sides, that way I could get a good  outside mitre  (even if the wall wasn't ) and the same with the inside. The reason for using the groove is you can use either end of you field panels as long as you make some spline material.  I don't how thick you can go on your panels, but I used french cleats to hang some I made  for a summer stock theater years ago,  I used trim screws on that set, if I were to do it today maybe think about long pin nails, depends on how clumsy the actors and crew are on the set. 

 

[Bohdan]

-- but where would the fittings be located on the panels, along the edge?

Have a look at your suppliers catalogues, there are lots of different fittings, for mitres, butt joints or flats, you can choose those that may be suitable for your design and construction style.

 

[tiralie]

Lamello P connectors advantages



or Knapp ready to assemble and knockdown fasteners for the plate (biscuit) joiner



Steve is the man!
Tim

 

[ear3]

Thanks!

Lamello P connectors advantages



or Knapp ready to assemble and knockdown fasteners for the plate (biscuit) joiner



Steve is the man!
Tim