To do or not to do "cut plastic along guide rail"

GeneBean

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May 22, 2014
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Setting up my track saw. When doing so, am I suppose to cut through the plastic guide on the 55 inch track. Is this required because it appears as though the blade when plunged will cut into the plastic along the length of the rail...........  
 
Yes, you cut the plastic splinter guard and then it is a zero-clearance edge.

Tom
 
Just made my first cut............I'm impressed both with accuracy and minimal dust..........
 
One thing that I found a little confusing was the conflicting information between the official manual and the official videos - never knew which one to follow.

The manual says to set full plunge depth and full speed, whereas I believe the video only sets plunge depth enough to clear the plastic. Any thoughts on which provides a better (more accurate) edge?
 
eddomak said:
One thing that I found a little confusing was the conflicting information between the official manual and the official videos - never knew which one to follow.

The manual says to set full plunge depth and full speed, whereas I believe the video only sets plunge depth enough to clear the plastic. Any thoughts on which provides a better (more accurate) edge?

I would go with the shallow cut... But the more important thing is to ensure there is something under it. MDF, wood or insulation board. You need the support under the cut to get the optimal splinter cut.

Cheers. Bryan.
 
Thanks for that - I will keep it in mind for the next time I replace it. Cheers!
 
I think the only difference plunge depth makes would be the amount of splinter guard you cut at the ends of the track. Since it bothered me to have untrimmed splinter guard at the ends I actually did two shallow cuts with two rails connected so that both rails got a full length trim. (rail 2 connected to the trailing end of rail 1; trim everything but the start of rail 1 and the end of rail 2; flip rails so the end of rail 2 and the start of rail 1 can be trimmed) :)
 
elfick said:
I think the only difference plunge depth makes would be the amount of splinter guard you cut at the ends of the track. Since it bothered me to have untrimmed splinter guard at the ends I actually did two shallow cuts with two rails connected so that both rails got a full length trim. (rail 2 connected to the trailing end of rail 1; trim everything but the start of rail 1 and the end of rail 2; flip rails so the end of rail 2 and the start of rail 1 can be trimmed) :)

I go "lesser of two evils" on that effort. I run the plunge cut end to end and have the "tags" still on the ends. Simply take a razor blade and cut the extra bits off. So much simpler and I very rarely would ever have the saw go to those extents anyways.

Your way works great if you commonly join rails.

Cheers. Bryan.
 
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